MTFCA Forum

In a recent post, there was a reference to http://t-springs.com/2b.html. It contains information regarding prep and painting springs. It states "Extreme care must be taken not to paint the contact surfaces where the leaves lay on top of each other. Only a very light fogging layer is acceptable. The reason for this is that any build up of paint between the leaf springs will eventually pulverize over time and the leaves and center bolt can end up loose and potential failure may occur."

The painting of springs has been discussed in many posts, and many owners have painted the contact surfaces. I wonder how wide spread is the idea that these surfaces should not be painted?

Ok some do paint. T springs are assembled with just graphite slip paint between the leafs and then painted as an assembled unit. The Model A's didn't even have slip paint between the leafs, they were metal to metal. Maybe some primer would be about all I would use. Some are worried about rust stains, like their cars ever see rain!

There's apparently something about the simple little Model T that makes lots of people really want to overthink them. Who comes up with this stuff? I paint um', I grease um' and I use um'. No problems.

I believe Ford painted at least some springs with paint mixed with graphite. Regardless, I don't think you'd have any issue painting the spring leaves all over with most any paint. (*Slip paint being much preferred*). Leaf springs normally "bed-in" after some time in service, and it seems to cause no problems. Most wear and bedding in occurs out toward the ends of the spring leaves. There is very little flex, wear, or relative motion toward the center of the spring assembly. The center of the spring is also clamped tightly to the frame, and is unlikely to go anywhere unless the clamps over the frame crossmember becomes very loose. In the case of new springs or a refurbished set of springs, I'd paint the heck out of the unassembled leaves with slip paint and let them dry for several days, then assemble the springs and tighten the center bolt firmly, leaving 3 or 4 threads above the nut. Put the springs in the car and clamp them tightly to the frame and go drive the car for 40 miles or so. Park it on a level surface and recheck the frame clamps and center bolt. The clamps will probably need tightening. Tighten them as needed and as evenly as possible, and then snug up the center bolt nut and peen it. Install cotter pins. Drive the car 150 miles or so, and then re-check the frame clamps and snug them up as needed. It's a good idea to get under the car and check ALL chassis bolts, clamps, etc after the first 50 miles or so, then again at 150 miles or so, and periodically thereafter as miles accumulate. While you're under there, check all the body bolts, screws, etc. You might also want to snug up the pan bolts.

Dry, rusty springs can get very stiff and noisey. Oil them up. If you want pretty springs, invest in spring gaiters. They work great to keep springs clean and lubricated, which improves ride and handling. A T with dry springs will ride like a buckboard.

I guess if the Dr. prescribes XANAX, then this is as good a thing to worry about as anything else to test its efficacy.

I have to say this is another overthought idea of what to do about painting springs. No offense but “Much ado about nothing”. Paint them and after they dry use some sort of lubrication on the leaves. That’s it.

Paint the entire leaf on both sides with a good, hard, gloss black paint (I would use a durable 2 part epoxy) and let dry thoroughly. Painting the entire leafs won’t hurt anything and will provide more protection against rust between the leafs. When applying slip paint try not to get any on the edges of the leafs. If you do accidentally get slip paint on the edges, have a rag dampened with mineral spirits (not lacquer thinner) ready to wipe off the slip paint from the edges. Allow slip paint to cure, then assemble the leafs together. Jim Patrick