MTFCA Forum

Magneto and magnets question I started to replace the gaskets in my engine it has been sitting for a few years now. I was lucky it looks like it was rebuilt but never used. When I pulled of the transmission top cover I was surprised to see there was no magneto coils or magnets on the motor. I understand they can run on with a battery and I did have a 12volt distributor in my pile of parts. My question is in the picture they put bolts with spacers on the flywheel where the magnets would go. Why did they do that, can I shorten them, or dose help move the oil? The nuts are pined over to lock them on.

I believe the bolts were intended to fling oil to lubricate the engine and transmission. There should be an oil pipe with a small funnel to one side of the flywheel housing to catch oil flung by the flywheel assembly and deliver it to the front of the oil pan.

Depends on the builder but I've seen original aluminum (I use new) stand-offs both single & double used for "splashers". I see the large funnel oil line so you're good !

I do see the "double" holes in the valve heads for a manual valve grinder - you might pull a couple to verify that they're not a 2 pc. valve - if so, they should be replaced.

Steve

if you blow up the picture, you can clearly see that they are two piece valves...you're right, they need to be replaced

after seeing that, I'd be suspect of every aspect of the engine and take nothing for granted.

I also see the oil funnel to supply oil to the front of the engine,.. but is it installed correctly? .,.... don't believe it is.

I agree with Scott C here! Check those valves!
Simply having the two little holes for a valve lapping tool is not conclusive of two-piece/cast iron head valves. A lot of good replacement valves were sold in the era and later that also had two little holes there. However, zooming in shows a detail that a lot of cast iron head two-piece valves also do have. Not all cast iron head two-piece valves have that detail, but some do. The heads were cast onto steel stems. Some of them, there is a telltale center shows in the casting.
Regardless. Any old valves with the two little lapping holes should be checked to be certain that they are one piece forged or welded and machined valves. And any valve, new or old should be inspected for any signs of damage between the stem and head. The worst damage to engines from breaking valves I have seen? Were all modern valves that broke in modern engines. Higher spring tension adds to the risk of breaking.

The cast iron two-piece valves may have been usually fine when they were new. However, with age, moisture and resulting corrosion has had time to migrate into the valve. Rust expansion weakens the bond in the casting, and sometimes the head splits and comes off the stem. Sometimes the entire head comes off in one piece. Either way, that very often results in major damage to the engine.

I am not crazy about the long stubs either. The bolts and spacers are under a lot of stress churning through the oil at higher speeds. I have seen some longer bolts like this begin to bend over, or even break if the threads are too long and not completely inside the flywheel.
I prefer the magnets in place myself. However, as an alternative, I like well made paddles or flippers. NOT some of the cheap ones made and sold over the years. Those I have seen also folding back from the pressure of pushing the oil around. I have made my own out of good angle iron for a couple speedsters. I also made a set for one car out of about one inch box tubing. Those really pushed the oil! I angle cut the the box to maximize pushing the oil, and simplify bolting the paddles into place, while using the box shape to maintain strength.

Whatever you use to push the oil? It has to be solidly and firmly attached so that it cannot vibrate or move about under stresses from the centrifugal force, oil, or other conditions. Some people prefer a bare flywheel with no added pushers. It seems to work fine that way, all though I have never been comfortable with that idea.

I'm sorry that you have found these problems. I would also add something. You should check the connecting rods and the crankshaft ? T crankshafts are prone to breakage. Due to the condition of everything else, I don't think the engine was "rebuilt" but just overhauled. Your journals might be out of round, there might be cracks in the crankshaft. The babbitt may or may not be in good shape. Sometimes all shims have been removed from the rods and they have been filed down to tighten them. And I have even found one engine with mismatched rods. Some of the new lighter rods and some of the older heavier rods in the same engine. Another thing some people did in earlier days was to tighten worn pistons by knurling them to rough up the sides. So check the roundness and taper of the cylinder bore.
I think you need the Ford Manual and the books Engine, Electrical system and Transmission and read up on all the things to check and adjustments to be made to have a good running engine.
Norm

The stated fact that oil paddles or bolts used as oil paddles have been found to be distorted by the forces of pumping the oil (and presumeably not by striking solid objects) points to the amount of engine power that overfilling the crankcase or using overly-viscous oil can consume. Obviously, anything attached to the flywheel needs to be properly secured to avoid massive failure.

The funnel on the internal oil line will be a little displaced because the thick coil plate is no longer in place. It should not matter. The brake drum appears consistent with what i would expect. The drum itself is narrower than the reverse/clutch drum. The edge of the driven plate forms the rest of the drum surface.=, and that includes that part of the casting which carries the clutch fingers. Hence it looks like there is a 'cut out' between the clutch finger mounts.

Allan from down under.

Oil tube can only go in one way. Dan Mc. manufactures the best oil slingers !

Here's what CAN happen with 2 pc. valves !

I wouldnt trust this motor build. Tear it down & build back up correctly. Check everything.
Hopefully the babbit components are good & go from there.

The extra slinger lock nuts! Check their clearance to the 2 oil petcocks coming thru the pan. They will be hitting.

Thanks,
It looks like I should take time go through the engine since it is on the stand. This engine has sat for 20 plus years. I think the previous owner bought it as kit. This engine reminds me of an old junk yard cage engine. I see there is more on forum about oil slinging too. I am sure I will have more question.
Thanks Tom

Yes, both petcocks wear barely screwed in to pan.

When Ford moved away from the 2 piece valves, they sent out letters asking agents/dealers to return any 2 piece valves they had in stock for credit and use only the new 1 piece valves for service, beginning immediately. I would not want them in any engine I intended to run. A hundred years and who knows how many hours, under what conditions, hasn't done them any good.

Brake drum, cut down 26 to fit early drive plate? Not sure, just asking. Need more pictures.
Time to tear down. Dan

It's a standard narrow drum. In a blow-up I can see the parting line between the narrower standard drum and that part of the driven plate which forms the rest of the braking surface. It has the standard bolts mounting the driven plate, rather than either of the two types used to fix the 26-7 plate.

Allan from down under.

Operating on battery means you have to continually adjust spark advance with engine RPM for optimal engine performance. A distributor with proper centrifical advance is one solution if you don't mind the non-stock appearance. Another option is the E-Timer electronic ignition which uses the stock coils, stock wiring and provides Automatic Timing Advance.