MTFCA Forum

I found that the water jacket had rusted through into the head bolt hole and water found it's way to number one cylinder. Lucky me the water also found its way into the intake and down into the rebuilt carburetor. So I am looking at three options, 1) sleeve the head bolt holes with stainless tubing, 2) locate a 105 year old low head without any rust out conditions or 3) purchase a new z head. I have been told by Steve at Langs that I can use the z head however I will have to bend the radiator hose to make it work due to it being a high head design. I don't know if anyone has sleeved low head bolt holes and if so maybe you could share your experience, success or not? Finally maybe someone out there may know of a low head for sale in excellent condition. I am open for suggestions, you folks are the experts and I would appreciate your opinion. Thanks

Or buy a used high head ... which are easy to find.

Another option is, I can sell you a very rare, new, low and Ford scripted aluminium head postage isn't cheap from Australia tho!

Forgot to mention, it's HC as well.

While sleeving the bolt holes may seem like a good option, the amount of rust that it would take to go through to a bolt hole would also most likely cause thin spots elsewhere in the head as well. For instance, look into the water outlet hole. You may see that the little vertical posts that reinforce the domes of the combustion chambers have rusted away. Where will your next leak be? How bad will it mess up the engine? My advice, look for another head.

I agree with Jerry. I have repaired some over the years just to have another pop up a few years down the road. Another issue that is over looked time to time is a shift in the core process. Just trying to help.

All the Best,

Hank

Has anyone tried resin impregnation? It's primarily used to fill porosity in castings, it won't fill cracks, but I believe it inhibits corrosion so could reduce chance of further deterioration. I'm thinking of it for my low head which has rust flakes floating around despite using inhibitor anti freeze.

Generally, getting to the surface areas inside the cylinder head is a difficult process, just too many nooks and crannies.

Have used frayed wire rope, 1/4' dia. on a power drill, into the water outlets, and run it around inside, got some stuff loose and out. But can't see how sandblast would be of help. Likely just a chemical soak, maybe in a molasses bath!, would get most of the rust to flush away.

Treating the surfaces inside would be difficult, would be shame if surface treatments or layers of any kind causes poorer transfer of heat from the coolant.

Over time that iron head is just going to corrode inside, probably most are now rather deep pitted, and you can only do yearly maintainace by flushing, and cleaning the block and head to get rust flakes out, and preserve with good coolant mix, that includes rust prevention.

I would find another low head. Unless you need a 1912 or earlier head, they are not difficult to find.

The resin process sucks it into all the pores of the metal by putting the item in a vacuum tank, and as my head is the 09 original I am unlikely to find a replacement, so I should do whatever I can to preserve it. I'll talk to the company and report back.