MTFCA Forum

I have a taper leaf rear spring I plan to disassemble and restore next week.

I've not ever done this, nor have I seen anyone else do it. So, I'm asking.....

Once disassembled and bead blasted, do I apply the Slip Plate before any paint, or do I prime and paint the leaves, then apply the slip plate, then assemble?

Please weigh in with suggestions.

Thank you.

Use the Slip-Plate during reassembly

Bill, you should seriously consider blending the ridge that forms on the top of each leaf, and slightly radiusing the bottom edge/end of each leaf so as to slide efficiently. Then like Jablonski mentioned, use slip plate dry film lubricant on the friction faces.

Bill, before taking it apart, use a centre punch to mark the edge of each leaf adjacent to the centre bolt. This will allow you to re-assemble it in the same way. Turning a leaf or two 180* will most likely upset the way the leaves nest, especially on rear springs with the three bends.

Hope this helps.
Allan from down under.

That is a very good suggestion Allan !

Guys;

Excellent suggestions; thank you.

Do I prime and paint the leaves before assembly, then apply the slip-plate, or apply the slip-plate, assemble, THEN prime and paint?

I have done it two ways. I have primed each leaf first with epoxy, painted them black, the painted the sides with graphite and assembled. I have also primed the leaves, painted with graphite, assembled THEN painted. There isn't much of a difference at the end of the day, but I prefer to assemble then topcoat. Always prime the leaf so rust and corrosion doesn't happen - I have done this on many cars and so have many others and it doesn't affect the way it rides. It also doesn't wear away after a while - the slip plate takes care of that.

Bill

Have at times just used the Slip Paint as primer when the leaves have been stripped with wire brush or disc sander.

On most, with rust pits still showing, that you really don't want to grind away (preserve the leaf metal as much as possible), have then primed the leaves. But my primer choice is Rustoleum Rust Reformer, (spray bomb) it locks in rust pits, dries fast, is durable black primer. Then over that I brush on the Slip Plate. Then dry, assemble the stack. Finally finish paint over the assembled stack with good black enamel.


Slip Plate website info:
Preparation:
Stir material prior to use. It is important to properly stir the material with a hand stir stick or paint mixer. This allows any graphite and bonding agents that may have settled normally during transportation to be properly mixed.
Prepare your surface. The most important part of the coating process is proper surface preparation. Remove any loose debris, mud, loose paint, rust or grit by high pressure water cleaning and/or use of a grinding or wire brush. If there are any residual petroleum or grease lubricants from previous applications, remove with a solvent such as aerosol brake cleaner.
Application:
Apply by brush, roller, dipping, or airless spray equipment. Apply material as you would for any normal paint job. Material when applied by brush should have a film thickness of 5 to 7 mil. When applied by airless spray equipment, the film thickness should be 4 to 7 mil. When applied by roller the film thickness will be 3 to 6 mil.

I've been leaning in that direction; thank you, Tyler.

Dan;

Any suggestions as to the grit of the sanding?

I have been told many years ago to use the paint in the picture. Rebuilt all four of my springs this spring and used this spray again.