MTFCA Forum

This is my 1st T. 1916 Touring. It was a rust bucket when I bought it, took it down to the frame, did not have to remove the engine, had good radiator, wheels & tires. Had to replace the king pins and a few other things while the body was off. Had to remove the hog head and replace some bands, would only go in reverse when I bought it. I only had 2 good coils out of 7, had to learn how to fix and adjust them. I had to jack it up when I bought it to start it, drained the oil, almost as thick as tar, added Kerosene and let it soak a few days, put an Aerator in to make bubbles, put 10w-30W in and now I can start it, most of the time with 1 crank, even after setting a few weeks, and do not have to jack it up. I have posted many questions, thank you to all those that took the time to answer them. Drove a couple miles on the back roads today, I am 72 and it is like learning to drive all over again. I live in the hills near Indiana, PA, I have to learn to climb the hills and more of a challenge is going down the steep hills and not loosing it. Next is the interior & top. The large nut between the tail pipe and the manifold will not stay on. The treads on the manifold look good, the nut will start but not stay tight and eventually fall off while driving, I have attached a picture, any suggestions?

If the exhaust nut will not stay on I would suggest a few things to try.
1) Use a new brass nut and apply antisieze to the manifold threads before you install the nut.
2) Use a Ford exhaust nut wrench to get it tight. I have never had success with pipe wrenches, strap wrenches, monkey wrenches, or crescent wrenches. Ford made a special wrench just for the exhaust nut.
3) Put a modern exhaust pipe clamp behind the nut to keep it from backing off.

If the nut is still good the vendors have a clamp that goes on behind it to help it from backing up.
When you tighten up the nut that you have now do you move the tailpipe back and forth to help seat the nut when tightening it up? Sometimes you think it’s seated well but it’s actually not. Try to get it pipe seated on the manifold completely if you can.

And if the manifold threads are good it may be time to get a new.nut. After many years the brass nut threads will sort of deteriorate after getting hot over and over.

Your right about having to get use to T !
I have 3 and it’s not like driving your modern pickup or car. It’s good to remember to drive like you don’t have brakes. Because it doesn’t have real brakes that react as fast as what your use to.

Using the engine, slowing down early, pulling hills, downshifting on steep hills is part of the T driving experience that you will get use to in time.

The car is looking really nice and your doing a great job getting it going again.

Attached are 4 photos showing two methods we use to keep worn exhaust pack nuts tight. The first is with a clamp with a built in fold down tab, made for the purpose. This is available from the vendors. The second is a do it yourself method using a pipe clamp with a home made bracket. Tighten the exhaust nut as tight as you can, then install the clamp of your choice. Jim Patrick

Andy

that is a really nice looking buggy! You've done a nice job.

as far as going down hill and not "losing it", you ALWAYS go down a hill in the same gear you'd have to go UP in. Anything else will be hazardous to life and limb.

Scott that’s the best explanation about T’s and hills and controlling one! Going down steep hills can be downright dangerous especially if you have a loose front end when it’s needs new bushings and spoke wheels!

Andy. When replacing the king pins it’s ALWAYS important to carefully check ALL the bushings in the springs, tie rod ends and bolts, the bushing in the steering bracket and etc. Another important place to check is where the wish bone attaches to the engine pan. You probably already did go through all of the front end after seeing the good work on your Touring. Good job.

I would like to find someone close to inspect it for me. I contacted the closest T club twice, they are about an hour away, I guess everyone is busy.

Andy

Write a post titled ' Would like some help east of Pittsburgh' and see if that helps.

If you do FB, go the Model T Ford Club of Facebook and post the same info.

Hopefully someone will see it and help you out. Make sure you state you are
in Indiana, PA. Always hard to help when someone does not state where they
are from.

Car looks great. You have done an excellent job.

DHort wrote: ↑

Wed Sep 21, 2022 1:42 am

...Make sure you state you are in Indiana, PA. Always hard to help when someone does not state where they
are from.

It's even more complicated when you're in a place called "Indiana, Pennsylvania."

Postman: Indiana, Pennsylvania? Well, which is it? How am I supposed to know?

"Mexico" by Bob Moore Orchestra ( on YouTube, if it hasn't bveen canceled/purged)

Andy : As far as the front end of your T is concerned the easiest and proven way to check it is to jack the front end completely off the floor. Use a jack stand on each side of the frame near the front axle.
Once the axle is off the floor use the steering wheel and slowly move the the wheels back and forth. You’ll quickly find out how much slack there is. Go to the front of the car and slowly move a front wheel. Watch the tie rod ends and the steering shaft arm moving the assembly.
You can see if there is movement at those points.
The small movements at those places and others are magnified at the steering wheel!

Maybe this can help because sometimes we take for granted “minor” wear in the front end.
You can really tell the difference when the the front end is completely gone through. It will seem like a different car.

If you have not done it yet, I highly suggest rebuilding the rear axle. They're usually in sorry shape mechanically and have several things wrong in addition to the well known babbit thrust washers. A failure in the rear end means no more foot brake.

Stephen