MTFCA Forum

Just a mindless suggestion. Certainly someone from the forum will have their car at the Hershey meet during the week. Maybe just maybe the owner(s) may have the time and patience to give lessons for those new Forum members who are still not certain as to how to operate the Model T they just purchased. Even show how to make adjustments to the linkages to make life easier for he new T owner.

Maybe even a small fee to be donated to the museum?

Consider: teaching the skills required to drive any of the 15 million Ford Model Ts built between 1908 and 1927 :

Use of spark and throttle control levers
Coordination of hand and foot controls
Proper shifting techniques
Stopping the vehicle
Correct use of the Neutral / Brake lever
Reversing the vehicle

Just a suggestion.

The Gilmore in Hickory Corners, MI offers this. I know because I is a graduate of it.

A very helpful suggestion, for sure, for people who are interested in owning and driving a T. I'm still in the interested part... the car is in pieces in the garage.

v/r,

jason

Correct use of the Neutral / Brake lever

Apparently there's some controversy over that. I use the hand brake to help out the foot brake, but some people say I shouldn't. I don't know why.

Some people start the car in neutral and then put the handbrake to the floor as they hold in the clutch, and then start using the pedals.
Others do not put the handbrake forward until the car is moving in low., and they shift to high.

I personally do not use the handbrake once it is forward until I park the car, and just drive using the clutch and the brake.

To Been Here Before, There will be some Model T's at the MTFCA site at Hershey, but that really is not a good place to learn to drive one due to the congestion, etc. As said above, The Gilmore Museum offers Model T Driving classes throughout the summer. Classes are also offered on select dates at the AACA Museum in Hershey, but if I'm not mistaken, they are not offered during Hershey week.

Keith

Steve Jelf wrote: ↑

Mon Sep 26, 2022 8:49 pm

Correct use of the Neutral / Brake lever

Apparently there's some controversy over that. I use the hand brake to help out the foot brake, but some people say I shouldn't. I don't know why.

The "hand brake" was designed to be the parking brake like it is on modern cars. Having said that there is a difference in brake shoes:
The original design was a bare cast iron shoe against a small steel drum. That alone should define its usefulness. They now sell ones with a heavy lining for small drums - making them a bit more useful as an assist to braking. The '26-'27 large drum was lined originally and the large drum provides more braking than the smaller drum with lined shoes. So some of the preferences expressed are often out of context to what bake design it is applicable to. In any case none of these variations are consider for use alone without the transmission brake. Calling any of these variations an "emergency brake" is applicable in the context of a panic stop.

They now sell ones with a heavy lining for small drums - making them a bit more useful as an assist to braking.

Yes, that's why I use the hand brake to assist. I'd rather wear out those linings than the one in the transmission. Easier to replace. One objection was that the hand brake puts the car in neutral. But you have to be in neutral to stop without killing the engine. I don't see anything wrong with applying the hand brake after you've done your engine braking. But I don't use the low pedal for neutral either. I'm just bad.

Steve Jelf wrote: ↑

Mon Sep 26, 2022 11:30 pm

They now sell ones with a heavy lining for small drums - making them a bit more useful as an assist to braking.

Yes, that's why I use the hand brake to assist. I'd rather wear out those linings than the one in the transmission. Easier to replace. One objection was that the hand brake puts the car in neutral. But you have to be in neutral to stop without killing the engine. I don't see anything wrong with applying the hand brake after you've done your engine braking. But I don't use the low pedal for neutral either. I'm just bad.

As I tried to point out, many of the arguments lack a context of use. You have provided an good procedure, with pros & cons, for which type of small drum brake you are using to stop. No doubt others use different effective techniques as well and that is what Driving Education should be about.

I see no problem with using lined rear brakes for intermittent auxilliary braking. You'd want all linkage and ratchet mechanisms to be in good condition and well adjusted to avoid brake lock problems. Having the brake linkage adjusted correctly will share the limited braking effect equally between the two brakes and rear tires. The T rear brakes, including the late model larger brakes, are not suited for any sustained braking. The lightweight sheet metal brake drums will get VERY HOT very quickly. The late, larger drums are a little better, but still only suited for very limited braking, with plenty of off-time to cool down. Engine braking is the main Model T braking resource, and the only one that will survive sustained application. A tight engine in good tune that will idle slowly enhances engine braking capability. It's always a good idea to avoid carrying any un-needed weight in a Model T, especially in hilly country. While a very wet roadway might allow heavier use of the parking brake due to better brake cooling, available tire traction would be much reduced.

You may want to check this out, they have them several times during the year

https://www.aacamuseum.org/event/model- ... 022-10-02/

All this talk about using the parking brake as a service brake just reminds me of the benefit of either Rockies or AC brakes. No comparison to the braking ability of the lever vs aux brakes.
Glad all 3 of my Ts have RM's.

When the discussion turns to the poverty of the Model T's stock brakes, and folks wax poetic over various added improvements, rarely does anyone mention how tiny is the contact area of two 3-1/2" tires on the road surface. In my experience, the stock service brake is fully capable of locking up the rear wheels. If it won't, the band is either out if adjustment or worn past service. Skidding is rarely a good thing, but at least with two wheel brakes one stands a chance of being partly in control of the direction of travel.

That said, my experience has been with light bodies and lighter loads. Perhaps a fully loaded sedan can overcome the stock system's ability to lock the wheels ?