MTFCA Forum

I decided to poke around my steering gears to check lube (or lack thereof) and see if I can find why my steering wheel wobbles. Steering is tight left and right with very little play but the wheel wobbles on on it's shaft. I found the gears in OK condition and the shaft to cover seems to be the issue. Also, the top pin in the gear box is bent and the hole a bit wallowed. This is the pin that goes clear through and rides in a slot that seems to provide stops left and right to prevent over steer. So, my question.

When I put the pin at the top and centered in the slot, my wheels are turned to the right. I'm guessing my steering is not properly centered to the gear box. Is the pitman arm splined and I simply need to back off the nut, pull the arm off, center the wheels and put back together with the steering pin in the gear box centered in the slot?

I've centered my steering on my 68 Cougar before and am guessing it's similar to the T. With the gears out so I can replace them anyway, it centering in the slot of the top pin would make it easy to index but don't know if that assumption is correct. Also don't know if the arm is splined. If it is and my assumption is correct, it's a simple fix (I hope).

Thanks,
MIke

Mike

the steering shaft has 1 woodruff key at the end for the pitman arm. There is no relocating the arm. When the pin is centered, you will or should, find the pitman arm verticle (centered). If it is and the wheels are turned, you probably have the wrong drag link.

Following is courtesy of Jim Thode 11/23/11:

STEERING CONNECTING ROD
(“Drag Link”)
Factory Number T-289
7-29-12 Riveted rod adopted. Brazing pin holes at various angles.
11-4-12 Pin holes now drilled in the same direction.
1-9-14 Both ends of brazing pins riveted over.
9-19-14 Length of rod changed from 30-11/16” to 30-11/16—30-3/4”. A month later it was changed again to 31.062—31.125”
7-14-16 Ford design with forged end adopted. Earlier type continued in use (supplied by outside firms).
5-8-17 Ford design now used exclusively.
10-2-17 Length changed to 30.938—31.062”.
5-19-19 Length changed to 30.312—30.438”
Factory Number T-289-B
At the introduction of and for the 1926 models, the length was 31.125—31.250”.
10-7-25 Length changed to 30.812—30.875.

Check out this link

http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/257047/300409.html

Chris

I remembered that thread and was what I was actually looking for...thank you for posting!

I think I have an extra 26 coupe Pittman arm.

Pin is centered and the arm is in fact vertical. Sighhhhhhhhhh! Glad I caught this before I drove it.

Thanks all...now to find the right drag link.

Mike

varmint wrote: ↑

Sun Apr 21, 2019 10:54 pm

I think I have an extra 26 coupe Pittman arm.

I'm assuming a coupe and touring use the same arm? My T was manufactured in Jan 1926.

Mikey1968 wrote: ↑

Mon Apr 22, 2019 9:23 am

Pin is centered and the arm is in fact vertical. Sighhhhhhhhhh! Glad I caught this before I drove it.

Thanks all...now to find the right drag link.

Mike

After reading the info from the link....not so fast. Going to have to measure some parts under the T first. Have to try to get to it this weekend maybe.

Mikey1968 wrote: ↑

Mon Apr 22, 2019 9:24 am

varmint wrote: ↑

Sun Apr 21, 2019 10:54 pm

I think I have an extra 26 coupe Pittman arm.

I'm assuming a coupe and touring use the same arm? My T was manufactured in Jan 1926.

Please PM me. Guess will need to have you double check the length.

Thanks,
Mike

Well, the drag link measured at 30.25" so looks like I need to find the correct length drag link. Although it's nearly an inch too short, I'm wondering if that would make my wheels that far off. Anyway, drag link is wrong and gotta be swapped. Going to replace the ball at the tie rod while I'm at it.

Anyone have the correct length drag link in condition? Hit me up in the classifieds.

Cheers,
Mike