Oil Pan Sealing Nylon Washer Set Question
Forum rules
If you need help logging in, or have question about how something works, use the Support forum located here Support Forum
Complete set of Forum Rules Forum Rules
If you need help logging in, or have question about how something works, use the Support forum located here Support Forum
Complete set of Forum Rules Forum Rules
-
Topic author - Posts: 121
- Joined: Mon Jan 07, 2019 8:13 am
- First Name: Jason
- Last Name: Given
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 26 Roadster, 25/26 speeder
- Location: St. Paiul
Oil Pan Sealing Nylon Washer Set Question
The joke in our house, "If there is not oil under it! There ain't oil in it". As I put the engine back together, a goal is to remove as many oil leaks as possible.
I purchased Lang's "Oil Pan Sealing Nylon Washer Set" (P# 3100WS, $3.95). The description states the areas they are for, but they arrived with zero instructions. I have not dug into the package yet to figure out what and how many go where. So for example, when bolting the pan to the block, do you put a nylon washer under the bolt head and nut? But there is a lock washer if I recall correctly? Not sure how this is going to help? I'm thinking maybe placing one washer under the bolt head, and make sure there is plenty of RTV around the bolt hole, and maybe add a tad tot the threads when I put it all back together, to fill the hole. On my inspection pan ,I put together like this the last time I had it off and it still leaked.
T's always leak, but I would like to be able to park it on the concrete driveway without a mess under it. She parks in the garage on her pad, or out in the street. Never gets left on the driveway.
Thanks
I purchased Lang's "Oil Pan Sealing Nylon Washer Set" (P# 3100WS, $3.95). The description states the areas they are for, but they arrived with zero instructions. I have not dug into the package yet to figure out what and how many go where. So for example, when bolting the pan to the block, do you put a nylon washer under the bolt head and nut? But there is a lock washer if I recall correctly? Not sure how this is going to help? I'm thinking maybe placing one washer under the bolt head, and make sure there is plenty of RTV around the bolt hole, and maybe add a tad tot the threads when I put it all back together, to fill the hole. On my inspection pan ,I put together like this the last time I had it off and it still leaked.
T's always leak, but I would like to be able to park it on the concrete driveway without a mess under it. She parks in the garage on her pad, or out in the street. Never gets left on the driveway.
Thanks
-
- Posts: 4967
- Joined: Sat Jan 05, 2019 1:57 pm
- First Name: Mark
- Last Name: Gregush
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1925 cutdown PU, 1920 Dodge touring, 1948 F2 Ford flat head 6 pickup 3 speed
- Location: Portland Or
- MTFCA Number: 52564
- Board Member Since: 1999
Re: Oil Pan Sealing Nylon Washer Set Question
They are for the inspection plate not pan to block.
I know the voices aren't real but damn they have some good ideas!
1925 Cut down pickup
1920 Dodge touring
1948 Ford F2 pickup
1925 Cut down pickup
1920 Dodge touring
1948 Ford F2 pickup
-
- Posts: 3923
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 8:00 pm
- First Name: John
- Last Name: Kuehn
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 19 Roadster, 21 Touring, 24 Coupe
- Location: Texas
- MTFCA Number: 28924
Re: Oil Pan Sealing Nylon Washer Set Question
You may already know this but when trying to get your lower pan ( inspection cover or plate) to stop leaking the bolt holes all the way around the lower cover should be inspected to see if they are dimpled in or concave.
After many years of removing the pan for engine repairs the holes get mashed in. In other words the cover has to perfectly flat to be against the flat surface of the main engine pan.
Lay the cover on a flat piece iron, board or any hard flat surface and flatten out the holes all the way around. Doing that and a new gasket usually stops the lower pan leaks.
When you have the engine torn down it’s also a idea to check the holes in the engine pan for flatness and flatten them out. It does help.
After many years of removing the pan for engine repairs the holes get mashed in. In other words the cover has to perfectly flat to be against the flat surface of the main engine pan.
Lay the cover on a flat piece iron, board or any hard flat surface and flatten out the holes all the way around. Doing that and a new gasket usually stops the lower pan leaks.
When you have the engine torn down it’s also a idea to check the holes in the engine pan for flatness and flatten them out. It does help.
-
- Posts: 6435
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 11:18 am
- First Name: Scott
- Last Name: Conger
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: '13, '15, '19, '23
- Location: Clark, WY
- Board Member Since: 2005
Re: Oil Pan Sealing Nylon Washer Set Question
these actually work: https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/produ ... oduct=3245
stat-o-seals on inspection pan, hog's head inspection plate and if you're a clever machinist, the neutral adjuster screw, too.
no lockwashers
stat-o-seals on inspection pan, hog's head inspection plate and if you're a clever machinist, the neutral adjuster screw, too.
no lockwashers
Scott Conger
Tyranny under the guise of law is still Tyranny
NH Full Flow Float Valves
Obsolete carburetor parts manufactured
Tyranny under the guise of law is still Tyranny
NH Full Flow Float Valves
Obsolete carburetor parts manufactured
-
Topic author - Posts: 121
- Joined: Mon Jan 07, 2019 8:13 am
- First Name: Jason
- Last Name: Given
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 26 Roadster, 25/26 speeder
- Location: St. Paiul
Re: Oil Pan Sealing Nylon Washer Set Question
I did not look at the nylon washers. Looks like I might have used stat-o-seal, on the inspection pan the last time I assembled it.John kuehn wrote: ↑Thu Sep 29, 2022 7:16 pmYou may already know this but when trying to get your lower pan ( inspection cover or plate) to stop leaking the bolt holes all the way around the lower cover should be inspected to see if they are dimpled in or concave.
After many years of removing the pan for engine repairs the holes get mashed in. In other words the cover has to perfectly flat to be against the flat surface of the main engine pan.
Lay the cover on a flat piece iron, board or any hard flat surface and flatten out the holes all the way around. Doing that and a new gasket usually stops the lower pan leaks.
When you have the engine torn down it’s also a idea to check the holes in the engine pan for flatness and flatten them out. It does help.
I did checked the inspection cover and pan this evening for straightness. The inspection cover was bandana shaped. The ends were maybe 1/16 to an 1/8 up. Not bad over all. Fairly easy fix. I think I straighten it before.
The pan was another issue. Number of bolt holes near where the engine and hogs head join, were very buldged. Suspect this is some of my major oil leaks. Don't have have a pan straightening jig. But a couple hammers and dollies and a heavy table. I got it within 1/32. I would guess some of the bolt holes were over 1/8" off.
-
- Posts: 607
- Joined: Wed Jan 23, 2019 3:00 pm
- First Name: Gene
- Last Name: Carrothers
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1912 Torpedo Roadster
- Location: Huntington Beach, Ca
- MTFCA Number: 22905
- MTFCI Number: 23068
- Board Member Since: 1999
Re: Oil Pan Sealing Nylon Washer Set Question
I hope you know that for a dripless T Ultra Black or the Right Stuff by Permatex it your Friend!! I don't use the Right Stuff because of it's limited working time before it cures. Clean the surfaces oil free apply a small bead and assemble. It's that simple. It sticks super good and is flexible so there is a million uses for what you have left. You can eliminate the gasket material in most places.
I've had good luck sealing the tube between jobs by pulling a piece of electrical tape over the tip sealing it off air tight. Don't let the tip sit long uncovered. The black RTV at walmart I think is not the same.
I've had good luck sealing the tube between jobs by pulling a piece of electrical tape over the tip sealing it off air tight. Don't let the tip sit long uncovered. The black RTV at walmart I think is not the same.
1912 Torpedo Roadster
-
- Posts: 3923
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 8:00 pm
- First Name: John
- Last Name: Kuehn
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 19 Roadster, 21 Touring, 24 Coupe
- Location: Texas
- MTFCA Number: 28924
Re: Oil Pan Sealing Nylon Washer Set Question
When flattening out the bolt holes around the engine pan and lower cover will help in stopping leaks. Flat to flat always work better for gasket surfaces in any situation. In my experience the worst leaks always seem to come from the transmission cover area.
I remember reading about flattening out the bolt holes years ago in tinkering tips. There were lots of good basic ideas that was from tinkering tips.
I remember reading about flattening out the bolt holes years ago in tinkering tips. There were lots of good basic ideas that was from tinkering tips.
-
- Posts: 60
- Joined: Tue Jan 08, 2019 7:35 pm
- First Name: David
- Last Name: Sullivan
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1923
- Location: Bellingham WA
Re: Oil Pan Sealing Nylon Washer Set Question
In my hunble opinion, Surf city Gene got it right, in 60 some years of assembling engines, the use of first GE silicone, and then, and way better, Right Stuff has made habitual leakers, dry. David Sullivan, Bellingham WA