MTFCA Forum

I have a Wheeler Schebler, but it is the same as a Stromberg. If the float is set too high on the stromberg, how do you change it ? And how do you measure it so it is correct? I keep flooding and this is my next step
Thank you

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Dave, did you get your answer from the links?
I've fussed with a Stromberg (didn't need to-other issues) but you're right! The same adjustments.
Tiny wrench set, fiddle and check..

The general information about setting float level would be the same re Schebler/Stromberg, the actual setting is different. You have to do the Schebler by trial and error because the collar the counterweights mounts to is soldered in place on the needle shaft. This job might be easier with the carb off the car so you can view the main jet and a way to supply fuel to the float chamber and as I recall the model Schebler you have, the enricher needle easily removable or off the carb.
You might change the title to Schebler, wrenches and screwdriver will not work. Well except to remove the cover and enricher valve!

If it is in fact flooding, then it is very unlikely a float level setting...it is simply a failure of the needle/seat assembly and fuel is coming in semi-unregulated.

Mark/Scott

I cannot download any pictures. I shrank them and I still get the yellow triangle.

I will try to explain.

1. There is a low speed needle that states lean/rich on top. I can screw it in or out and it does not affect the carb as far as I can tell. It still runs the same.
2. If the car is running you can look in the air intake and see a puddle of fuel. That is why I think the float is not set right.
3. Stan did not send any instructions when he sent me this carb.
4. Next to the low speed needle is an opening at the top of another channel and the opening in it is oriented horizontal. There is a spring in it and a grub screw that is too small. The only thing holding it in there is the low speed needle. The channel goes from the top to the bottom of the carb. Some sort of flow mechanism.
5. The float chamber looks exactly like a Stromberg with the knob on top called the "Needle Valve Cap' I want to assume that I need to adjust this to adjust the height of the float.
6. I do not see anything in the Stromberg/Pdf file about adjusting the float.
7. The carb is not in the car.

I retook all the pics with a camera.

Dave; I'm assuming that if Stan sent you this carb, it must have ran fine at some time. There are several variations of the W-S FAX8, two different choke extensions and also some with an enrichening valve attached to the high speed jet adjusting system and others with just a plain screw adjusting high speed needle. I don't know which variation that you have without seeing pictures. As for the float/fuel level adjustment, it may look similar to the Stromberg OF but it's not the same as the OF has a threaded adjustment and the W-S is soldered in place. The brass cover over the main needle is just to keep dirt out and has nothing to do with any adjustment. I have three W-S carbs here and I measured them all from the tip of the needle to the base of the collar where the weights are is 2.085" on all three (within 0.005"). This will be a good starting point but it assumes that the weights are not obviously worn (flat spots where they contact the float), and that the hinges are not sloppy. I really don't understand what you are trying to describe about the adjusting screws. There are two, a low speed and a high speed. The low speed is a knurled knob or dics with it's rotation restricted by a spring loaded ball that rubs on the side of the knurled disc (so it won't rotate on it's own) If yours doesn't adjust properly, either the passages under the adjustment needle are compromised or the idle speed that you're trying to adjust at is too high. This adjustment is for LOW speed (idle) and should be somewhere close to 1 1/2 turns out from gently closed. The high speed adjusting needle control is similar (depending on whether it has an enriching lever) and either way should be somewhere around 2 1/2 to 3 1/2 turns out from gently closed. I actually prefer these carbs over the OF as I think they adjust nicer, have every bit as much performance and don't have what Stan called the "runny nose syndrome" like the OFs. Did your carb work OK at some time previous, or has it always had issues?. Scott is right as "flooding " problems rarely develop from normal use, so I'd suspect dirt, a leaking float, or a badly worn needle, something that might take years to develop. The attached picture is the version without the enrichening valve and the odd choke extension that takes a separate tube and choke stove.

Looks like the spring and ball are missing from the housing, keeps the knob from rotating after set.
Thank you, Bruce, for posting additional information.

Bruce,

Thank you for all that information. I looked in my box and apparently the spring has sprung, so I will have to find another. Not worried about that. I purchased the carb from Stan 5-7 years ago, but have not installed it until now. It just sat on the shelf. Here is a picture of the parts from the idle circuit. Stan must not have had a ball so he used this grub screw. Since it was loose and it is a screw, I assumed he used a screw that was too small. I will have to look for a spring and a ball to put in there now that you have clarified what it should be. The other two items in the picture are the rest of the idle circuit.

When we had the car running, we turned the idle screw in and out and did not notice any change in the speed of the engine. If the idle screw was turned in all the way, the car ran fine. It ran the same whether it was closed or open 1 and 1/2 turns. The high speed was set at 3 turns. I brought the car home and it was running well. I parked the car and looked at the carb to adjust it and could see fuel at the bottom of the intake port while the car was running. I turned the car off, and pulled the plugs. They were black, so I assumed the carb was running too rich.

Maybe that means that both my idle speed and high speed are too far open and this particular carb should be set on the lean side. I have only worked with NH's before. A club member stated 'What do you need to go faster for. You already go to fast!'. Here is a photo of the choke extension. I might need a filter on it so dirt does not drop into it. It looks like this carb does not have the enrichening valve, so I do not have to deal with that.
Thank you again for all your help.

Russ Potter has both versions on his wall, but he is a couple hundred miles away.

Dave; The picture shown is the idle adjusting screw and the main high speed jet with the cover cap. I suggest removing the 1/2' brass fitting that the low speed adjuster screws into and check the small passage that extends under it towards the throttle plate (you can see the other end by looking into the manifold end of the carb). As well, there is much more to the high speed system as the long brass jet shown in the picture screws into another brass cylinder with two tiny tubes inside it. Be careful taking it apart as there should be a very thin fiber gasket under the brass cylinder. Although these carbs will provide more "speed" for your T, the main advantage is a much more precise mixture throughout the RPM and load range making for a smoother running engine, way less carbon build-up and better fuel economy, all without the need for the driver to attempt to make in-car adjustments. When you get it working properly, you will never go back to an NH again, so take your time and fix the small issues. (BTW, you must use a small spring and ball to hold the low speed adjuster from rotating, as the grub screw is not the answer) . As well, rather than add a "filter", try to find the correct heat stove that mounts on the manifold and the flex tubing that connects the carb to it. As with every Model T carb, the heat tube helps in fuel atomization , especially with a cold engine and cooler air temperatures.

Dave : Here are some pics of the two W-S carb I have, both with the enrichening valve and showing the heat stove I made from copper pipe.It works great but gets really hot and tarnishes quickly.