MTFCA Forum

Let me preface this by saying that this is my first bone stock model T. I’m used to hot rods and customs.



I’m going to be replacing one of the front wheels on my 21 T very soon so I can get it on a trailer and get it home. The current wheel is broken and what’s left if sittijgnin the dirt. I need to go by and take a look at it to see what tools I’ll need but I figured I’d ask here and maybe save myself a trip.


I don’t have any Model T specific tools but have about every other tool known to man. Lol. What tools would you guys suggest taking to make swapping the broken wood wheel out to get my t rolling.



Obviously I will need a floor jack.
A pair of pliers to remove the cotter pin and
I’m hoping that a large adjustable wrench or a large wrench set will be enough.

Anything else?

Here is the wheel in question and the replacement wheel. As you can see it won’t roll! Haha

I would suggest a large crescent wrench for the axle nut. Remember the threads are left/right for different sides. Cant remember right now which is which. If your moving the bearings you will need races in the replacement wheel. The rear end wheels may not roll if the trans is stuck in gear, I've used 2x4s to lift the rear axle and slide them before. Looks like a fun project. With Model Ts allot of patience is required and remember anything that gets broken can be repaired or replaced. Good luck.

Jim

you can get by with a n adjustable wrench and some channel locks. at some point order you a hub wrench it fits the hub cap and the bearing nut. philip

That being the left wheel, it is standard right hand thread. I would be sure to have bearings for the replacement wheel before you go. The bearings in the hub on the ground may not be any good, and might fall apart as you dis assemble.

If you just want to change out a front wheel you’ll need a pair of pliers to pull out the cotter pin that goes through the large spindle nut. Pull out the pin and use a 10 or 12 inch crescent wrench to unscrew the spindle nut.
Unscrew the spindle nut and the wheel should come off. It’s pretty simple. Take you some type of oil or penetrating oil just in case to help things unscrew.
Some purists will only use a Ford designated species tool but for basic stuff like this you really don’t need to.
There are some specific tools for the engine, transmission and driveshaft and a few other things but a good mechanic with modern tools can get most of the jobs done without them.

The left side will have RH threads, also the outer bearing is threaded on the spindle too.
Crescent wrench will do, the rim lugs nuts should be 11/16".

Also, the threaded outer bearings are expensive, you can use a non threaded '28-'48 outer bearing that would just slide in the spindle to get you rolling again

Thanks for the heads up on the threads. That will help for those pesky left hand threads down the road.

I’ll have to check on the bearings. The new wheel has the inner bearings but I don’t think the outera are there. With luck maybe I can reuse the ones on the car.

Pete, I would suggest joining the Lone Star Ts in Dallas. We have members that live near you and I'm sure you can get some help on your project. Contact me and I will provide some additional information for you.
Thanks,
Dennis Sanford

As far as left and right hand threads the spindles have Ford Numbers on them that are designated for left and right. That will help you in knowing what to look for at swap meets if you need some. It’s always good to have extras!
Hopefully your spindles will be in good enough shape and not worn to bad. Good luck!

If you need new bearings, now or later, the best prices are usually at Rock Auto, Here are the numbers.

The wheels currently on your "new" T are 23" - the replacement wheel you've posted the photo of appears to be a 21" demountable & looking at the hub, might not be Model T - perhaps Chevrolet ?

And, demountable rim nuts on a car are 5/8" - same as head bolts.

I thought Chevrolet from that era had five rim bolts, while Ford had four? Correct or no?

Even if the Ford wheel is a different size, it should still do the job of rolling the chassis around.

George Andreasen wrote: ↑

Tue Apr 23, 2019 10:37 am

I thought Chevrolet from that era had five rim bolts, while Ford had four? Correct or no?

Even if the Ford wheel is a different size, it should still do the job of rolling the chassis around.

That’s what I’m hopin for. It will get a full new set of wheels or maybe wires one day. This is just a temporary wheel I found for $20 to get it rolling.

Steve Jelf wrote: ↑

Tue Apr 23, 2019 10:15 am

If you need new bearings, now or later, the best prices are usually at Rock Auto, Here are the numbers.

Bearings, Front Wheel.jpg

That’s awesome. Thank you very much!

Just to get it on a trailer to get it home. I would not worry about new bearings. Large adjustable crescent wrench, and side cutters to remove the cotter pin. Maybe a screw driver or an awl, to help remove the old crude from the castle nut to find the cotter pin.

Personally, I would remove the old wheel, slap in the old bearings as is, even with no inner seal, and roll it up on the trailer. Your not going far, so no damage should occur.

The old inner seal, if it is an original type can be a pain to remove as the metal is really thick.

jagiven wrote: ↑

Tue Apr 23, 2019 11:34 am

Just to get it on a trailer to get it home. I would not worry about new bearings. Large adjustable crescent wrench, and side cutters to remove the cotter pin. Maybe a screw driver or an awl, to help remove the old crude from the castle nut to find the cotter pin.

Personally, I would remove the old wheel, slap in the old bearings as is, even with no inner seal, and roll it up on the trailer. Your not going far, so no damage should occur.

The old inner seal, if it is an original type can be a pain to remove as the metal is really thick.

That’s the plan. I’m just not familiar with stock T components. I’ve been building hot rods and restoring vintage autos for 15+ years professionally but never restored a T. Plenty of Model A’s and lots of T buckets over the years. Lots of other early cars back to stock but not a T. I’m loving learning about them.

Chevrolet also had 4 lug rims as they will bolt onto a 21" T wheel BUT the tube stem hole is not in the correct place.

It was mentioned above, but may go un-noticed if you are not familiar with these things. There is a nut on the spindle that has to come off, just like a modern car, but the bearing is also threaded onto the spindle and must screw off as well. What's worse is SOME had ball bearings and when you unscrew that inner race from the spindle, the balls are going to go everywhere. Others are tapered roller bearings like a modern car except for the inner race of the outer bearing is threaded as mentioned above. Bad thing is, your old one may have ball bearings and the new one have rollers or vice versa. Just be wary of that if you intend to re-use the bearings. The spindles are the same for either so if you have a set of inner and outer roller bearings for the new wheel you will be in good shape.