MTFCA Forum

I have tried to install the wood mounting blocks, and they won't go in. I haven't pounded on them too hard. I have made some measurements, and it looks like the main problem is with the width of the block. It looks like I have to sand down the width.

Measurements indicate that the vertical dimension will be OK but may have to sand down the surface that the bolt is setting on.

I assume I am correct that the block needs to fit very tight.

One of the blocks have some cracks in it as shown in the last three attached photos. Need some opinions. Should I get it replaced?

This discussion contains a drawing https://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/1 ... 55696.html

I would replace the one with the cracks. Is the width between the frame and the crankcase ear too thick on both sides, or just on one side? If only on one side, you could loosen the two bolts at the top through the frame and might get just a fraction of an inch slide of the ears to the other side so that both blocks slide in. If both are too tight, sand down to fit. If the notch at the top is not sufficient to fit under the head of the bolt with the through bolt hole in alignment, you will need to remove a little from the top. New wood will be tighter than old dry wood, and the weather where you live might even play a part. If it is quite humid, the wood will swell a bit and if the weather is dry, it will shrink. So just remove the minimum necessary to make it fit.
Norm

I had to use a brass drift to get my blocks in place. If it is cracked, you have a bad block.

I used a tire iron to pry the engine away from the frame just slightly. That allowed me to slide the blocks into place and start the side bolts. (Do NOT overtighten the side bolts!)

Are you saying that the notch on the top of the block is too shallow to clear the bolt head? If so, you could trim some off till it just clears. The blocks don't need to be super tight, but they should fit fairly snug. Enough so that you should have to tap them in.

I recently installed the rebuilt engine back into my 26 roadster. The new blocks were too tight to slide in place. I used a long brass drift, as Dave said and was able to easily drive them into place. You may want to check the length of that bolt in your picture. The new replacement bolts are too short for 26&27's. You will not be able to install the brace that runs down from the hogshead bolt and still get the cotter pin to go in.

Scott C. wrote: ↑

Wed Nov 09, 2022 1:40 am

The new replacement bolts are too short for 26&27's. You will not be able to install the brace that runs down from the hogshead bolt and still get the cotter pin to go in.

The first bolt kit that I bought from one of the vendors was too short as Scott mentioned. Snyders has the longer bolt kit that fits with the hogshead braces installed. That's what I have in my '26 now.

I believe in 1924 they redesigned that block to almost a square block. I use a hardwood block to hammer those into place. The photo above shows the bolt head definitely needs clearance to fit. It would be nice if you shared the year of your car. I use a taper punch to align the the center bolt hole.

Today, I installed the wood block at one of the engine rear mounting brackets on my 1927 coupe. I had to sand down the top of the block so it cleared the vertical bolt head. I removed only enough material so that the wood still was in contact with the bolt head.

I also had to sand the back side of the block to allow me to drive the block into place to get a tight fit. I assume Ford intend a tight fit. If that is not was intended I can provide it on the other bracket (and this one).

I am curious. Why is the horizontal bolt not to be tightened? Anyone know why?

I should have used the square wood block instead of the one shown to be period correct as I understand that the 1926/1927 coupe used that because there was no need for the taper on the bottom of the block to allow for a gas line to pass thru the block.

The side bolts do not contribute to supporting the engine. The purpose of the wood blocks is to limit side to side movement of the engine caused by engine vibration, frame flex over rough roads, forces transmitted to the transmission ball housing by the driveshaft caused by the rear wheels moving over road irregularities, and forces transmitted from the front axle by the radius rods to the flywheel housing. The side bolts serve to keep the wood blocks from shifting out of place while still allowing some limited movement. The top bolts are intended to be kept tight.

Running the car with the side bolts overtightened can lead to broken pan arms.