MTFCA Forum

I just bought a new NEO enclosed single-car trailer and finally have it after a 3 month build wait. Have any of you guys mounted “over-center” motorcycle front wheel chocks in your trailers. I’ve been hauling T’s for many years now and the Condor Trailer-Only SC2000 is really catching my eye. It’s a device that you power into and it grabs onto the front tire. You then strap the car as normal. It would act as a forward stop, putting the car in the same place every time. Model T tires are very similar in size to dirt bike tires. Any experience with these things?

I just bolted a 2' X 6" across the floor of my trailer in the place where I want the front wheels. I did put a little angle on the board where it touches the wheel. It positions the car perfectly every time and adds a little more holding to keep the car in place.

Hello,

I use a pair of Northern Tool Ultra Tow model 58047 motorcycle chocks. Very robust, no moving parts, and will capture a Model T wheel very nicely. I really like the 3 point bolt down arrangement. https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools ... _200692637

Good Luck

I have debated using one from HF.
https://www.harborfreight.com/motorcycl ... 69026.html

Running the car up to an immovable barrier at the front is a good idea on any trailer. it allows the fitting of a strap/winch cable/tie down around the axle, with just a modicum of tension to hold the car against the stop. The only way you can add to that tension is to be able to accelerate at an unbelievable rate. Then all you need is a good pair of tie downs on the rear axle, to prevent the car moving forwards in any form of collision.

Allan from down under.

Customer reviews are here:

@ https://www.amazon.com/Condor-SC-2000-T ... geNumber=2

Securing both wheels by installing a set
on the same axle might be a good idea ….


FJ

The trouble with tying down a motor cycle is it must be the wheels that are tied down. Any tie-down to the fame/forks only serves to compress the suspension, and the load applied is alternately increased/lessened as the unit goes over bumps in the road. A big enough bump may well dislodge the tiedowns.

The same applies with a T. The axles/wheels need to be tied down , not the frame.

Allan from down under.

Allan wrote: ↑

Mon Nov 14, 2022 11:58 pm

The trouble with tying down a motor cycle is it must be the wheels that are tied down. Any tie-down to the fame/forks only serves to compress the suspension, and the load applied is alternately increased/lessened as the unit goes over bumps in the road. A big enough bump may well dislodge the tiedowns.

The same applies with a T. The axles/wheels need to be tied down , not the frame.

Allan from down under.

Allen, I hauled motorcycles for years before hauling my T. Always chocked the front wheel at a stop then used Ancra tie does to either the triple tree (with soft ties) or handle bars at the triple tree to tie down. Never had a problem. I use loop style motorcycle stops in the trailer I tow the T in. Never had a problem with it either but I tie down at the spring perches in a cross pattern.

Given the discussion has transitioned a little to tying the T down ... I acknowledge I've said this before (and probably will do so again!) but I think it's worth reiterating that the Model T should not be tied down in a way that introduces any 'stretch' between the front axle and the rest of the vehicle (either to the chassis or rear axle).

The reason for this is that the front axle is secured longitudinally mostly by the ball and socket attached to the sump. This will accept a degree of compressive load (ie towards the rear of the vehicle) but, particularly if you have a worn or loose assembly, in tension the ball and socket could part ways and you'd end up with a front axle assembly that's only attached by the front spring/perches (ignoring any steering arms and speedo cable). The spring and perches are not designed for loads in this direction thus I'd expect a fair amount of flex would result, which in turn could lead to the tiedowns becoming loose and the car flailing around on the trailer to no good purpose. Ultimately a breakage in one or more of these components could then occur, the consequences of which would likely range from a series of expletives to much, much worse.

In my view even the compressive load on that balljoint should be kept to a minimum, bearing in mind that in use on a car without front brakes it's not expected to sustain high longitudinal loads for any length of time.

So, whenever I transition a T, the longitudinal security is provided by tiedown points both fore and aft to each rear wheels or axle. Obviously the front of the vehicle is also tied down but this is more to ensure the vehicle is secured vertically and laterally, although the way I do it there would be some secondary longitudinal security, at least for a short period.

Luke.

As a active Model T owner and Harley owner, I installed Pingle motor cycle wheel chocks on my wood deck open trailer. Purchased xtra hold down brkts so I can install 2 to line up with front T tires or just install 1 when transporting the motorcycle, or remove them all together for a open deck, No problem’s .
John
Oscoda, Michigan

New to the hobby and just bought my first trailer this past June. Right or wrong, I use “basket” straps on all four wheels. I now have tape marks beside the e-tracks where the wheels go, but it would probably load faster to put some kind of stop blocks in front of the front wheels

Miles- That's exactly the way I tie down Model T's in my enclosed trailer. My reasoning in setting up my trailer with e-track and nylon basket-type tie downs is that THAT'S THE WAY ALL RAILROADS SHIP NEW AUTOMOBILES, and I honestly believe that railroads have found it to be the best way! Additionally, I've found that a good way to store the basket type tie-down straps is to mount a standard 3 ft long length of e-track horizontally near the ceiling of the trailer and just hang them up where they are kept neat, out of the way, and not tangled up. FWIW,....harold

Miles

Looks great. I just screwed in a couple short lengths of 2x4 to use as stop blocks. Works great and removable if needed. Nothing fancy.