MTFCA Forum

Hello Everyone,

I just towed in a 26 Touring yesterday and wanted to get your advise. The old car has 90% of its original paint or at least very very old paint. There are many places where the paint is flaking off and there is exposed bare metal. Surprisingly, the bare metal hasn't really rusted because the elderly man that I got it from periodically kept the car wiped down with oil to preserve it, he said. Once I get it mechanically sorted I plan to drive it regularly and wanted to see what the forum thought would be the best way to preserve it or should I just let it continue to age out naturally. I am not really too concerned if a little rust forms since T's have such good steel but I do want to be a good steward of the things that I am blessed to have.

Thanks and God Bless,

Joshua A Powers

Hi Joshua,

Well, I am biased towards keeping the original patina as much as possible. Its only original once
Rubbing down with oil is not a bad idea - it works, but needs regular application.

Perhaps use a phosphate based rust treatment for the bare metal. There are many brands, and I do not know what is the 'best' in the US.

Please do treat the bare metal - leaving it to 'age' (or rust) will affect the future. Best to stop rust getting through the metal now. The phosphate will still give a 'bare metal' appearance.

I did a cut and polish over my truck's paint and then just a rub with a clean cloth after that. With an original its best to keep it out of the rain when you can and not use a wash to clean the car as water creeps in and rests in the nooks and crannies. Result = rust over time. (Look up Jay Leno - he does not wash any of his cars for that reason as well).

May you have many many fun miles ahead

Merry Christmas
Adrian Whiteman

I have used most brands of "rust removers", "rust restorers" (converter, reformer, etc) and even 30% cleaning Vinegar. Almost all of these will the harm paint when they do there thing on the rust. But the need rust to work. "Rust removers" dissolve the rust while "rust restorers" will dissolve most of t he rust and then chemically bond to the surface rust. Many members use EVAPO-RUST to remove rust and it doesn't attack most paints. My preferred "rust restorer" is Krud Kutter Rust Reformer not to be confused with other rust remover products they make.
Recently I used Rust-Oleum Rust Reformer spray and it left a nice finish matte finish.

Your biggest challenge will be to clean the surface of oil residue without removing the existing paint in order to paint the exposed spots

Now to preserve the patina ... Note fenders had black primer while bodies had a redish bown
Per this link https://mtfca.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?t=6884
"Towards the end of the thread there is an extensive list of paints & related primers
List of the factory paints used by the Ford Motor Company: 1913 - 1925
Ford # Name Purpose Type
F-101 First Coat Black Elastic Japan Prime coat on Fenders, hoods, etc. Oven
F-102 Second Coat Black Elastic Japan Finish Coat on Fenders, hoods, etc. Oven
F-105 First Coat Brushing Black Japan Front Axles Oven
F-106 Second Coat Brushing Black Japan Front Axles Oven
F-108 First Coat Black Wheel Surfacer Wheels Air
F-111 Red Body Prime Bodies Air
...."

In any case experiment in a not so obvious place to get the effect that your looking for

If you have light rust patches on mostly painted surfaces, it is likely that some rust is present under some of the paint in the affected areas. Attacking that rust with vinegar, etc will probably loosen more paint in those areas. I'd try rubbing off loose rust and rust stains on the paint surface, then drying everthing out with a heat lamp, then sealing the surface with some kind of low gloss seal coat. Something like linseed oil rubbed into the surfaces might be a good choice. I'd avoid any kind of permanent clear coat. An oil coating applied evenly and rubbed out would need renewal from time to time, but it would do the least damage to the original finish, and it would penetrate any tiny pockets of rust in painted surfaces and keep the rust dry and dormant.

Boiled linseed oil is an easily applied, non-permanent option. Just wipe on a thin coat with a rag, it will last six months or so, longer if it is kept away from the sun. It works well to protect bare metal if you get caught out in a shower and gives a satin look to old paint. Not everyone likes the look, but it protects well and if you don't like it, just leave it alone it will oxidize and go away in time back to where you started.

Part of keeping the story going is continuing
( if possible ) maintaining the finish as it
has been ….

Find out specifically what the previous
owner did & continue doing the same.

FJ