MTFCA Forum

The next step in installing the top on my 1927 coupe is to attach the vinyl layer. Should I wrap it onto the "bottom" of the wood frame on the front or stop it at the vertical edge like on the sides and rear of the frame?

Lots of steps. This leaves out lots of details, but covers basic steps.

First: Install felt padding over entire surface.

Second: Install cording-welt drip edge all the way around.

Third: Install top deck. Stretch and trim just above drip edge.

Fourth: Install hidem welt all the way around.

Here is a photo of whats left of an original top at the left rear corner.

This is how it should look all the way around (unless using gutters).

Here is the front of an original and the visor.

We got the top on.

After tacking the material and before installing the hidem-welt, you should cut slits or wedges in the material between the tacks where it goes around the corners. That helps to minimize puckering of the material at the corners so it will lay flatter and give a neater, higher quality appearance.

Don’t cut slits between the tacks. The material gets stretched while tacking so there are no puckers. If you cut slits under the hidem its a place for water to collect. Even if it isn’t a noticeable leak, the wood stays wet and rots.

Adam wrote: ↑

Mon Dec 19, 2022 11:11 am

Don’t cut slits between the tacks. The material gets stretched while tacking so there are no puckers. If you cut slits under the hidem its a place for water to collect. Even if it isn’t a noticeable leak, the wood stays wet and rots.

Agreed! With proper stretching and a little help with a hair dryer, the top can be laid over the corners without puckering.

Also, the topping does not have to go under the front edge of the top, although no harm done I suppose.

If you add more tacks along the edges of the top, while also stretching a bit, you'll reduce the small stretch marks that you're seeing adjacent to each tack location.

BTW, you're doing a nice job! Just adding a few "pointers" for you.

I know it’s the wrong time of the year but my roof jobs have always come out looking great doing them out in the hot sun in the Summer. The material is a lot more pliable and if you get it super smooth around the edges when it is warm it will still look great in colder weather when it shrinks. If doing it now get your working area as warm as possible and use a hand held hair dryer to heat the edges. Nothing worse than doing a smooth job in cold weather only to have the material stretch and pucker the next Summer in the heat.