MTFCA Forum

hi there guys can i ask witch is the best most reliable carb for my ford model t i have a carb on it but is a bit contrary, my T is an 1910 open valve ,

Holly nh swayback. You will want one with the long/early throttle & choke arms.

The most foolproof if doing the repair/restoration yourself is, like John said, an NH

a little better looking (and more period-correct looking) carb that would look really nice on your car is a Holley "G". It has all the performance you'd need for an early car, looks great if it's an all-brass one and is a little less "common" looking for an early engine such as yours. They are a little harder to rebuild and set up but there are folks doing this work commercially for the hobby who can take that effort out of your hands if you're inclined. Unlike the earlier Holleys, the "G" has parts that are mostly commercially available and is a very maintainable carb.

What do you have on your T currently? Is it the 5 ball?

yes i have a five ball it needs to be rebuilt but I'm told they can be troublesome there's carb on it at the moment it has four stud on top of it im not sure what it is i find it a not wright

I'm not familiar with the carb that's on your car now. If it's a "correct" one for 1910, it's a scarce item and a rebuilt replacement may be hard to find (or to pay for). The late Stan Howe was a specialist in early or rare carbs. Since we lost Stan I don't know if there is an early carb specialist, but there are other carb rebuilders. Maybe Russ Potter. He does oodles of later carbs, and his customers brag on the quality of his work, so I would ask him.

The Holley NH recommended by John and Scott was used on Fords during the years of peak production in the twenties, so it's very plentiful, and less expensive than most other Model T carbs. I have bought NH bodies or complete carbs at swap meets and auctions for $20 or less. As the other guys have said, it's simple and reliable. You can buy it rebuilt from one of the parts dealers. You can also get the MTFCA Carburetor book and do the work yourself. Nearly all the parts are available new. If you decide to go that route and need a new float valve, get one of Scott's.

The Holley G Scott mentioned is less plentiful but still not hard to find. I've bought it in need of rebuilding for under $20, like the NH. But I've also seen it in need of rebuilding for over $200, so be careful. Some say it's as good as the NH, and some say it's better. Before 1919 it was made of bronze, and when you clean it up, Dang, it shore is purdy.


Holley NH. This one needs a new paint job, but it works.

Holley G. Before 1919 it's bronze.

thanks ,,, i have a holly G rebuilt carb i might try that one . im not worried about the looks i just need a carb that i can rely on its looking NH seems to be the one that's good

Nothing wrong with a 5 ball

Richard I agree with you if properly rebuilt.
Best John

I have a Kingston 5 ball on my 1909 touring and it runs and starts great!! Bill Glass rebuilt the carburetor and did a great job. I hope this helps, Russ Furstnow

I run the 5 ball on three of my cars and they run very well. Rebuilt with new viton tipped needle, new seat in body new float arm with adjustable screw and brass float. I also run a stove pipe. I run the Holley on a 11T with a brass float and same needle and seat as the 5 ball and it works very well.

My advice on carbs is not to eat too much of them!

Haven't seen Perry Kete in a while..figured I'd pick up where he left off!

Those 1911 Holley carbs are great running carbs. Better than a 5 ball IMHO

Andrew: Since you're not concerned about authenticity, and you're looking for the "best" carb for your early brass car, why not investigate the brass aftermarket choices. The Stromberg OF, Rayfield UF, and the Wheeler-Schebler FAX8 or FA2 all provide much better "carburetion", require no messing with adjustments from the driver's seat, and really look right on a brass car. If not, I agree with several guys that suggested the brass Holley G, as it would be my second choice.

My 1917 came with a Holley G which I had rebuilt by Russ Potter. With it my car started easily and ran smoothly. Being a bit of an experimenter, I bought a swayback NH to see the difference. Other than being a little harder to start when cold, the NH appears to have more ooomph than the G.

When I had my transmission rebuilt and engine refreshed this past spring, the rebuilder put the engine on a dyno so I could see it running. Out of curiosity, we ran it with the G and an NH. Looking at the table below you'll see what I suspected about the NH was true, it did produce more power. I have since added Scott Conger's Full-flow valve to the NH which I believe further improves performance, especially on hills or when the fuel in your tank is getting low.