MTFCA Forum

Using KR Wilson boring bar frame with adjustable cutters and thought it was seated against the false cam, it wasn't! No big deal, over cut the front main anyway so need to redo. Looks like I bored it off center and more than likely redo the center too as it is close to final cut, poo! The rear still has plenty of babbitt to get it in alignment.
Would these cutters work? I would still have to shorten just a bit to work with my setup.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/224816154948
The ones I am using now need work on the profile or some honing to make better cut and are also just a little short. The next step would be 5/16 HHS round stock and make my own.

I am wondering when you say “seated against the false cam”. I always use a “link device” to ensure correct gear mesh, as the camshaft bores have quite a bit of vertical variation!!
Just a thought.

The KR Wilson boring bar frame has 2 legs that stick down and are pushed against the false cam. I am working with what I have.

If you can’t make your own cutters, Gene French might be able to make you exactly what you need.

Adam wrote: ↑

Mon Feb 13, 2023 4:52 pm

If you can’t make your own cutters, Gene French might be able to make you exactly what you need.

Thanks, that would be an option. I have someone local that does Model A babbitt that is guiding me when I have questions.

3.937” is the optimal spacing for good gear mesh! I can post a picture if you want.

The KRW boring frame are made to be used with their combo machine. It has a bed plate for the block to mount on so the boring frame adjusting screw can push the boring frame against the false cam.
Most KRW stuff is worn out where it is hard to get a good job with them. If you are doing more than just one engine you may want to look at Gene’s boring frames. Mate it with a Tobin Arp feed and you have a winning combo.

Gene’s boring set up is awesome. I cut the bearings in my 15 on the first attempt and did such a fine job. I didn’t have to even lap them in. It was easy to get size and did a great job. He has a great product. I even done them with a cordless drill. The way he makes the cutters gives you an awesome feel. I have a Bridgeport mill now, so probably will use it to feed the boring bar for the next engine, but well worth the money spent even if I only done the first rebuild and that was it.

Dan Hatch wrote: ↑

Mon Feb 13, 2023 7:53 pm

The KRW boring frame are made to be used with their combo machine. It has a bed plate for the block to mount on so the boring frame adjusting screw can push the boring frame against the false cam.
Most KRW stuff is worn out where it is hard to get a good job with them. If you are doing more than just one engine you may want to look at Gene’s boring frames. Mate it with a Tobin Arp feed and you have a winning combo.

Very correct on the adjustment screw and became aware of that yesterday talking to someone that knows about the KR Wilson tools. Next go around will be using clamps to pull it over tight before bolting down and check centering before putting those two caps back on. I have re-poured the caps and will do the center and front in block today.
I am just doing the one block for myself.
The feed I am using, the sliding shaft part, we think may have been part of a Tobin-Arp shell bearing cutter.

The line bore machine that I have used for 20 years or more. The “link” system assures me of correct gear fit.

Thanks for the photo, I see and understand now what you were talking about and how it works.
Got the center/front caps repoured along with the center main. After repouring the front block main 2 X's today I quit for the day. All that cast iron in the front was just a big heat sink along with the room temperature, just did not work out. There is tomorrow.

Les, what other engines are you using that frame on? I see a number of extra holes drilled for mounting.

Mark,
What is your block temperature at the start of your pour?
Harry

Was around 350-400 F for the center went fine and aiming for about the same for the front with babbitt at about 471C/850-900F. It seems the extra mass at the front pulled the heat out of the casting between the time I dropped the mold down on the block and time I picked up the Hot Pot to pour. Room temp was about 49-51 degrees F.
I am trying out heating the block and pouring mold separately, then dropping the mold into place then allowing to level out a little before pouring.
Think I need to maybe bring the front casting up to higher temp before installing the mold and pouring.
For the caps, I brought them in the house and used the oven to pre-heat as a unit, that seemed to work out well.
My meter and probe for checking babbitt temp measure C so have to convert to F and my temp gun is F.

Mark
I’ve only used it for T’s, but who knows over the last 100 years!

Barring any further complications, the front block main has been poured and is cooling. I did bump the heat up on the block.

Have you peened the bearings? If you don’t the crank will do it for you. Should be done while the bearings are cooling.

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Yes, I peened the babbitt in the block. The only bond the babbitt has in the block are the holes in the block. Peening is to stretch the babbitt to fit after it and the block start cooling, and both shrink. (Unless you are one of the few that can manage to tin the block first! )

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I hope you didn't think I was knocking tinning the block, because I sure was not. I know there are a few out there use that process and seems to work for them, in fact I thought about it.
This whole process has now gotten to the point of being too drawn out, not just the babbitt, but everything involved with getting my 1925 back on the road.
LOL, I am the VP and tour leader for my T club, with no T to drive on the tours I am leading, so need to get my butt in gear before June or will be leading those tours with the 1920 Dodge or my 48 F2! I love working under stress!
Got the month wrong, need to be on the road by May 13th!

Nothing gets done without deadlines!

Les Schubert wrote: ↑

Thu Feb 16, 2023 11:58 am

Nothing gets done without deadlines!

I have found that I do some of my best work after procrastinating and pulling an all-nighter, my mind is very focused on the task at hand.