MTFCA Forum

Last weekend on a tour someone said that my left rear wheel was leaning in at the top this is what I found, I'm guessing it shouldn't be 2 pieces?

If the bearing fits properly to the adapter and the adapter fits properly in the axle tube, all looks fine to me. Please note the fact that the bearing is not captured to the adapter makes this a “ball bearing adapter”, not a true “safety hub”. If the rear axle breaks, this bearing set will not stop the wheel from getting away. Perfectly fine to use what you have, just pointing out the differences.

As far as the wheel leaning… the axle decides the angle of the wheel. Could it be a bent axle housing…? Optical delusion from the body leaning…?

I agree with Kevin.
However how loose does the bearing fit on the inside adapter? Looks like it might be worn there (although my eyes might be deceiving me)?
If it is a CLOSE slip fit then all good!

I make my floating hubs that way. If the axle sleeve fits the bearing as it should, just refit it. I advise my customers to fit the bearing carrier as your is, then fit the stub into the bearing. With no axle key in place, fit the hub/sleeve assembly to the axle, with some red Loctite non hardening sealant around the stub. Tighten the grub screw retainer to lock it in place. This way the axle sleeve is set to the optimum position within the axle housing, because the bearing has pushed it in to the place it wants to run. Then pull the hub off, fit the axle key and refit the hub. The axle key needs to be off the axle when fitting the sleeve so the internal oil seal is not damaged. It is a good idea the run a bit of tape along the axle keyway to cover any sharp edges/burrs which may also damage the seal.

Hope this helps,
Allan from down under.

I agree with what Kevin said. Just a few comments- Thats a pretty small bearing to use for a wheel hub but it is what it is.
Also, its a good idea to bolt thru the bearing flange between the wheel studs into the wheel hub to lock the bearing flange to the wheel hub. Relying on the wheel studs to do that can lead to a loose wheel.

Out of the 5 T's I have for my own personal collection, only one has failed in the rear axle bearings and they were some fandangle after market things, never a problem with Henry's original set up of Hyatts.

Dan McEachern wrote: ↑

Tue Feb 21, 2023 1:49 am

I agree with what Kevin said. Just a few comments- Thats a pretty small bearing to use for a wheel hub but it is what it is.
Also, its a good idea to bolt thru the bearing flange between the wheel studs into the wheel hub to lock the bearing flange to the wheel hub. Relying on the wheel studs to do that can lead to a loose wheel.

I agree that it looks like a fairly small bearing.

Why not try the Ford method? It has worked for hundreds of thousands of cars!

The problem with “the Ford method” is that the proper Hyatt bearings are getting REALLY HARD to find. The reproduction solid rollers are only suitable to use on the inboard end of the axle. Using them by the wheel is a recipe for trouble/disaster!
So yes I use the Hyatts when I have enough good ones but that is getting rare!

Try harder!

Larry
I was watching for you to start reproducing the correct Hyatt type bearings please!