MTFCA Forum

I have just finished fitting five 1970 model Olympic tyres I found last winter. They had shrunk an inch in diameter and had to be stretched over a series of deflated 14" tyre/rim combinatios of varying diameters. The final stretch was done on a 23" split rim. This one had a tiny hole in the tube, so off it came for patching.
Notice the wide foot onthe beads. Even with this, there was no need to cut a notch in the bead to fit the tube. Rather than spend $264.75 plus shipping on a set of flaps, I use rim liners cut from the outside diameter of scrap 13" tube my tyre dealer saves for me. They are a snap fit on the rims, and never get displaced or interfere when fitting tyres. I used to use just the big clamp to hold the valve stem AND BOTH beads in the rim, but found more is better. It takes 3 levers to fit the tyre, both beads at once. The first I hold in place in my armpit, the other two are used to get a second one in place, change that to my armpit, and repeat the two lever trick until the tyre is on.

This is a result. I use the tyre lube my tyre shop uses. It works a treat. I don't clean it off once the tyre is on. Rather, I brush some over the whole sidewall. It works as a conditioner and looks and feels good.

Allan from down under.

Allan - I'm at a bit of a loss as to why you would install a "rim strip" used for wire wheels on a clincher - isn't the purpose of the "flap" to protect the tube ?

I installed a new set of Universal White tires on my 1915 Touring a few months back. The fronts were taken off the car and I managed to get them on along new flaps using tire irons. Not to bad but for the backs I decided to leave the rims on the car and this method turned out to be much EZer. Removing my 30 plus year old firestone's was much harder and chunks of rubber can out when using the tire irons. To be honest I do not think I would go through the trouble of using all that additional equipment but then I am not sure I would put on 50 year old tires... just my opinion and I hope they work out for you.

Steve, Henry built a few million Ts without any flaps. I believe he did include a narrow rubber rim strip in the wire wheels, likely to prevent welding flashes from puncturing the tubes. With used clincher rims of today, there s a chance of rust flakes doing the same thing. With the exception of the excellent set of rims on Henrietta, I have all my clincher rims abrasive blasted and electro zinc plated. They probably don't need rim liners either, but at the nil cost involved, I use them anyway.
What I end up with is a tube entirely encased in rubber, just as those who use flaps do. However, the rim liners give me NO grief when fitting the tyres. The liner keeps the tube away from any roughness in the rim, regardless of cause. It also helps to fill the clincher bead on the rim, keeping the tyre tight in the bead. The mounting lubricant works well on the liner, allowing the tyre bead to squeeze straight into place. I have never found a need to deflate and work on a tyre to get it properly seated in the rim. The tube liners never move during tyre mounting. Duct tape is a substitute for the liners, but it comes with its own problems with breakdown, adhesive mess, replacement etc.