MTFCA Forum

I was told by another T owner about a YouTube video on using a pan jig. I have searched using every thing I can think of and cannot find it. Does anybody have a link to it

at about 11minutes- Mike Bender

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PCUIal3HVNY&t=679s

Try this. It seems to be all inclusive of what needs to be done.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PCUIal3HVNY

Ha ha...looks like we both sorta posted on top of each other 'cept you were a bit faster Bill!

Tom- you know my T will squeal the tires and yours won't. Whoopie!

I noticed Mike has the inspection plate off the pan when he straightens it. Is there a risk the pan might deform when the plate is installed?

Since this subject is up at the moment,perhaps it won't be out of line for me to ask a question or 2 so perhaps myself and newbies to the hobby can better understand about straightening the pan.
I have always had trouble understanding why the pan area that bolts to the Cast Iron block needs to be straight before hand? It would seem bolted every couple inches to cast iron,the thin steel would straighten it's self. I know the bolt holes need to be flat but how does a bend in that area affect the engine as a whole? Leaks perhaps?
The section between the trans hoghead and the block on the other hand,seems it would bend again as soon as you went over a section of rough terrain or road.Thus on the improved T the 2 bolts at the top to add support.

you will be amazed at how far out of alinment they can get. Keep in mind all the usage they may have seen was not on the nice paved streets most of them see now. The T frame is very flexable

thanks for the quick response

I have found 4 dip pans are more prone to bending than 3 dip. They are usually bent at where the hogs head meets the block.

To add to Dan's observation - 4 dips also tend to get the ball socket pushed in from front end mishaps !

I've got 4 - 4 dip in the back of my truck all bent where the hogshead meets the crankcase