Pre 1918 rear axle
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Topic author - Posts: 1464
- Joined: Tue Jan 08, 2019 12:22 am
- First Name: craig
- Last Name: leach
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1919 Firetruck/1922 Speedster
- Location: Laveen Az
- MTFCA Number: 26647
Pre 1918 rear axle
Hi guy's
I'm putting together a rear for a upcoming project and found out the axle is a pre 1918. This has thrown a monkey wrench in my plans
on several points. First using the outside seals I prepurchased is out of the question. Fortunately Az Terry has a pair of early 2510 caps.
The other issue is there dosen't seem to be enough room for a 2411AS seal even if I cut off some of the bearing sleave the bearing is a
little to long for the cap to go on all the way. I'm thinking I may have to go with the 2511Fs. The only info I have found is they are difficult
to install (it does look like putting 10# of something in a 5# bag if you know what I mean ) I'm thinking there is some of you out there that
use these all the time and you have some tricks & tips on this. Any help will be appreciated Thanks.
Craig.
I'm putting together a rear for a upcoming project and found out the axle is a pre 1918. This has thrown a monkey wrench in my plans
on several points. First using the outside seals I prepurchased is out of the question. Fortunately Az Terry has a pair of early 2510 caps.
The other issue is there dosen't seem to be enough room for a 2411AS seal even if I cut off some of the bearing sleave the bearing is a
little to long for the cap to go on all the way. I'm thinking I may have to go with the 2511Fs. The only info I have found is they are difficult
to install (it does look like putting 10# of something in a 5# bag if you know what I mean ) I'm thinking there is some of you out there that
use these all the time and you have some tricks & tips on this. Any help will be appreciated Thanks.
Craig.
-
Topic author - Posts: 1464
- Joined: Tue Jan 08, 2019 12:22 am
- First Name: craig
- Last Name: leach
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1919 Firetruck/1922 Speedster
- Location: Laveen Az
- MTFCA Number: 26647
Re: Pre 1918 rear axle
Hi guys,
Just to add that a dozen revolutions through the heavy duty bead roller and the 2510 caps that are available through the venders will fit
the early axle fine.
Craig.
Just to add that a dozen revolutions through the heavy duty bead roller and the 2510 caps that are available through the venders will fit
the early axle fine.
Craig.
-
- Posts: 3873
- Joined: Fri Feb 12, 2021 12:24 pm
- First Name: john
- Last Name: karvaly
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 14/15 wide track roadster. 23 touring, 27 roadster pickup, 20ish rajo touring
- Location: orange, ca
- MTFCA Number: 14383
- Board Member Since: 2020
Re: Pre 1918 rear axle
I have been splitting both sides of later caps & wire wilding back the cuts. Works.
Bill Bohlen sells a seal set that fits early or late axles with neoprene seals. Specify when ordering.
Bill Bohlen sells a seal set that fits early or late axles with neoprene seals. Specify when ordering.
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Topic author - Posts: 1464
- Joined: Tue Jan 08, 2019 12:22 am
- First Name: craig
- Last Name: leach
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1919 Firetruck/1922 Speedster
- Location: Laveen Az
- MTFCA Number: 26647
Re: Pre 1918 rear axle
Hi Guys,
So I'm thinking no one uses the 2511F's in their rear ends any more? Has anyone come up with a easy way to cut a 1/16" off the sleave in the
housing so you can put the 2511AS neoprene seals in far enough that the bearing doesn't stick out?
Thanks.
Craig.
So I'm thinking no one uses the 2511F's in their rear ends any more? Has anyone come up with a easy way to cut a 1/16" off the sleave in the
housing so you can put the 2511AS neoprene seals in far enough that the bearing doesn't stick out?
Thanks.
Craig.
-
- Posts: 3873
- Joined: Fri Feb 12, 2021 12:24 pm
- First Name: john
- Last Name: karvaly
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 14/15 wide track roadster. 23 touring, 27 roadster pickup, 20ish rajo touring
- Location: orange, ca
- MTFCA Number: 14383
- Board Member Since: 2020
Re: Pre 1918 rear axle
I use a 3" 90 degree disk grinder to first grind a 1/16"- chamfer.
Then hand grind to the edge close. Finish & square up on a bench belt sander.
I do use the current neoprene inner seals.
BUT, they fit way to tight on the axle & will grab & shred themselves or grab & delam off the steel washer.
I cut the tight sleeve back to the molded in raised ring. No more failures.
I stretch it onto a stub axle. turn in a lathe & cut with a utility knife.
Then hand grind to the edge close. Finish & square up on a bench belt sander.
I do use the current neoprene inner seals.
BUT, they fit way to tight on the axle & will grab & shred themselves or grab & delam off the steel washer.
I cut the tight sleeve back to the molded in raised ring. No more failures.
I stretch it onto a stub axle. turn in a lathe & cut with a utility knife.
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Topic author - Posts: 1464
- Joined: Tue Jan 08, 2019 12:22 am
- First Name: craig
- Last Name: leach
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1919 Firetruck/1922 Speedster
- Location: Laveen Az
- MTFCA Number: 26647
Re: Pre 1918 rear axle
OK,
The standard solution for this is to shorten the bearing sleave to fit the inner seal. The issue I have ( and I have apperantly not comunicated
it correctly) the Hyatt bearings I want to use are the same length as the sleaves. So if I shorten the sleaves the bearing will stick out into the
outside seal / felt keeping the cap from going on all the way. SO the only solution is to shorten the inside collar to give enough space for the
seal to fit. ( the right side tube does not have this issue ) So the solution I came up with is to use a 2 1/16 hole saw inside a old bearing sleave
with a Starret 12" extention. Bore the inside collar a 1/16" then remove the sleave and do the same with a 2 1/8" hole saw. know I have
enough room for a seal and the bearing I would like to use.
John,
Have you ever heard of a product called Parker Lube? Its made by Parker Corp. You can put it around your mail box and the mail man can park
his truck in the box. He just cant open the door to get out without backing up. I have never ( knock on wood) had neoprene seal fail as you
described. But they can be a pain to install, I wrap electrical tape on the taper from the big end to the threads before pushing the lubed seal
on & into the housing. Thanks.
Craig.
The standard solution for this is to shorten the bearing sleave to fit the inner seal. The issue I have ( and I have apperantly not comunicated
it correctly) the Hyatt bearings I want to use are the same length as the sleaves. So if I shorten the sleaves the bearing will stick out into the
outside seal / felt keeping the cap from going on all the way. SO the only solution is to shorten the inside collar to give enough space for the
seal to fit. ( the right side tube does not have this issue ) So the solution I came up with is to use a 2 1/16 hole saw inside a old bearing sleave
with a Starret 12" extention. Bore the inside collar a 1/16" then remove the sleave and do the same with a 2 1/8" hole saw. know I have
enough room for a seal and the bearing I would like to use.
John,
Have you ever heard of a product called Parker Lube? Its made by Parker Corp. You can put it around your mail box and the mail man can park
his truck in the box. He just cant open the door to get out without backing up. I have never ( knock on wood) had neoprene seal fail as you
described. But they can be a pain to install, I wrap electrical tape on the taper from the big end to the threads before pushing the lubed seal
on & into the housing. Thanks.
Craig.
-
- Posts: 3873
- Joined: Fri Feb 12, 2021 12:24 pm
- First Name: john
- Last Name: karvaly
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 14/15 wide track roadster. 23 touring, 27 roadster pickup, 20ish rajo touring
- Location: orange, ca
- MTFCA Number: 14383
- Board Member Since: 2020
Re: Pre 1918 rear axle
Have you ever looked at one thats been run a few miles?
EVERYONE I have revisited was shredded or delamed.
I installed them with EP molly. I dont think lube is the issue. They dont need to fit that tight.
Remember, they are/were a repurposed CV seal from a modern car originally.
Or so the story goes.
Your housing fix/mod is brilliant.
EVERYONE I have revisited was shredded or delamed.
I installed them with EP molly. I dont think lube is the issue. They dont need to fit that tight.
Remember, they are/were a repurposed CV seal from a modern car originally.
Or so the story goes.
Your housing fix/mod is brilliant.
-
Topic author - Posts: 1464
- Joined: Tue Jan 08, 2019 12:22 am
- First Name: craig
- Last Name: leach
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1919 Firetruck/1922 Speedster
- Location: Laveen Az
- MTFCA Number: 26647
Re: Pre 1918 rear axle
Hi John,
Thank you.
I didn't know those seal are a repurposed CV seal. I have never found the neoprene seals in a rear end when I took it apart before.
All the rears I have taken apart have had felt, babbitt thrusts and something that looks like roofing tar in them. This one had one
babbitt thrust still intact? It took forever to get the sticky black stuff & felt out of this one. It's the best rear I have ever taken apart.
Craig.
Thank you.
I didn't know those seal are a repurposed CV seal. I have never found the neoprene seals in a rear end when I took it apart before.
All the rears I have taken apart have had felt, babbitt thrusts and something that looks like roofing tar in them. This one had one
babbitt thrust still intact? It took forever to get the sticky black stuff & felt out of this one. It's the best rear I have ever taken apart.
Craig.
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- Posts: 3298
- Joined: Tue Jan 08, 2019 10:43 am
- First Name: Larry
- Last Name: Smith
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 13 Touring, 13 Roadster, 17 Coupelet, 25 Roadster P/U
- Location: Lomita, California
- MTFCA Number: 121
- MTFCA Life Member: YES
- MTFCI Number: 16310
Re: Pre 1918 rear axle
Another change on the 1918 rear housing is they lowered the filling plug.