MTFCA Forum

I am getting ready to install a starter switch in my coupe. I have purchased two of the repos. They are the 5014 and 5014RE from Lang's. After looking at both, I would rather use my original switch. The switches are shown in the attached photos.

I want to consider using a starter solenoid. I appreciate some discussion about it, pros and cons, how it is installed, and how it works.

I will include five more photos in the next post.

The five more switch photos.

IMO - the original switch is best to re-condition - silver colored is the recent Made in USA - I've used them for years with no issues - the brass/gold colored one is an import & not a good one at that !

There are numerous discussions about the repro switches. The basic issue with them is how the plunder tube is attached to its base.
Here the problem. The top of the switch just needs to clear the floor board for the switch to make contact. When its to high and/or the hole its in is to big foot pressure will bend it forward. That will cause only the leading contact to touch, then in frustration the driver presses harder in order to have both contacts mate. So the repro's aren't as strong in their connect to the base.
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Wiring diagram
I would try to salvage the original. You might be able to take the copper bolts out of one of the repro. But since the diagram set-up is positioning the foot switch to take less amperage and acts like a push button switch
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The starter switch attached

You can see about it online.

It’s best to use the original switch if possible. When using the replacement fiber washers be sure to keep the copper studs centered and not touching the switch mounting plate.

Original is, by far, the best. After a refurbishment it will be as good as new and way better than a repro. I think you had a thread about this several months back. When reassembled, prime and paint gloss black. Rustoleum Appliance Epoxy is the best. Might want to look it up and review it to see what was said back then. Jim Patrick

Use new starter/generator terminal fiber washers on the studs - be careful removing the smaller O.D. fiber washer as it's the one that "centers" the stud through the mounting plate & not readily available. I re-condition switches as per original and 1 washer goes onto the stud, then the small O.D. stud insulator then 2 washers under the first nut.

The contact posts in your original switch should be fine. When you reinstall them, rotate them so the unworn parts of the contacts will interact with the plunger contact.

Just for reference this is an example of the height of the plunger above the floorboard. Not sure if it matters much if the switch plate is mounted above or on the underside of the frame rail

Jim, Thanks for reminding me of my earlier post! I had forgotten it. That post and the information in this post gives me the info I need to make a decision how to proceed with my switch.

I am using an original switch with a solenoid. My position is the original switch is old, and carrying high current is not good for longevity. So my original switch just carries enough current to trigger the solenoid and the solenoid carries the high current. If the solenoid fails on a tour, I can connect to the original switch or just crank until I replace it.

The only issue I’ve had with the 5014RE switch is the fact that the holes on the switch did not line up with the holes on my frame but it’s no big deal if you don’t mind a bit of drilling.