MTFCA Forum

Trying to install my engine, I can get the U-joint into the 4th main but can't get it to slide together the last 3/4"
I can get the engine into place just fine without hooking to drive shaft, the square end of the U-joint measures .880" is this correct, I didn't think to see if the U-joint fit the 4th main while I had the rear end apart, I have a used U-joint that measures .873 and that fits.
I forced the engine into it's correct position once and jacked up one rear wheel and cranked the engine thinking this might help it go together but no such luck, I've tried several times and it goes together okay except for the last 3/4", I could use some guidance.

Bruce

I'd think a pair of calipers to check for high spots and then a Bastard file stroke or two would do the trick.

If you're up for one more failed installation, I'd paint the square with a sharpie or dykem and look for the tight spot (perhaps across the corners)

About 10 years ago, there was a bad batch of uni's made, instead of clearance being taken off it was added. 880 is the trans drive shaft size and the uni should be about 875.

Had a made in Argentina ujoint years ago that was made square and would not go in the drive plate. Ground the corners down and it slipped right In. It failed years later.

The trans driveshaft size does measure .880" X .882", I have a used U-joint that measures .860" would that be okay to use, the new U-joint I am trying to use measures .878" I could just try and mill a .0015" off each side.

Use the old one if it is servicable. Servicable would be tight rivets, and some play on the wear parts. Post a picture if in doubt.

Have you had the rear spring-to-frame clamp off while the engine was out? Another thing is to make sure that the spring perch casting nuts are loose. If the spring perch is tightened without having the rear connected to the engine, it’s likely that the rear is too far away from the engine to get that last 3/4”. Been there, done that….

Hi Bruce,
Why didn't you post this earlyer? I just spent half a day setting up a drive shaft & rear end to find out I may have one of the same U/joints you
have! After setting the end play I found the hole on the drive shaft was .003 to small & .004 off center. What a pain!! Then I read your post &
find the new U/joint I have only fits half of the shafts I have. The engine is out & had I known I could have tested it before installing. I had the
same issue installing the U/joint on the drive shaft and found the issue to be the major diamiter that was to large just as Jeff C. said. Some
days I think I'm enjoying this old car stuff as much as I can stand in stead of as much as I would like.
Craig.

Here's the used U-joint I have

The old one appears to be very nice, as long as the rivets are tight.

Thats a keeper. Throw away the new one and use the Ford u-joint.

Your U joint may not be your problem, I once had the same problem and I eventually determined that the frame was bent where the rear spring fits. A PO some years ago used the T for pulling implements with a chain wrapped around the differential housing and consequently bent the frame just enough to not allow the driveshaft/uni square shaft to fit fully inside. In the day there was an accessory mechanism that attached to the differential housing for pulling implements, if abused, could bend the frame and what you are experiencing is the resultant. I had to fabricate a jig to
re-bend the frame slightly for an assured fit. I had the frame open and it was almost impossible to see but with enough looking and measuring it could be determined. I fabricated a jig with brasses to the ceiling of my garage, a large clamp on the frame and a Jackall to apply the pressure. It took about a week or two adding a little pressure every day and slightly over bending the frame. When released the frame was straight and the uni fit up snug. I had questioned several sources about lengths of drive shafts and I was assured they were all the same length. Also with the T being used as a tractor the entire frame was bent diagonally and the engine mounts had to be forced in. After the frame was straightened diagonally and the rear spring cross member re-bent straight everything fit perfect. It took me nearly a year to sort all these problems out. As suggested above leave everything loose first will help. If the car was ever used for towing the frame could be bent.

These senior moments are a real pain I'm concerned about the size of the male end of the U/joint and it's a shortened drive shaft for a Warford.
Fits great in a early warford, may even be an advantage. I hope your solution is as easy.
Craig.