MTFCA Forum

I got an aluminum Z head on my 24 Coupe and I wanted to know if anyone had issues with corrosion over time. I am running 50/50 mix like recommended so I hope that does the trick over time to prevent corrosion of the head.

Are you using an anode?

Do I need to with 50/50 mix?

I believe there have been many discussions on this with mixed opinions but out of an abundance of caution which would you rather sacrifice the head or the anode if it does cause electrolysis. Just a thought.

Ron,
Electrolysis will attach the softest metal in the system. This is because different metals exposed to acidic or base will produce a electrical
current, electrons pass from one metal to the other ( usualy the softest to the hardest ) also if there is current flowing through the
Liquid this will produce a simular effect. As in your mag is some how looking for a ground through your radiator insteasd of the motor
mounts. In a Model T with a aluminum head the head will be tha softest metal. Useing a zink anode will make the anode the softer metal.
Keeping up on the PH of your coolant will help alot. Making sure everything is well grounded. Radiator, engine & battery helps too. I have seen
fire pumps with anodes sacrofice the grade 5 bolts holding the pump housing to gether when the mountings become rusted and things were
grounded to the pump. I have seen coolant level sensors not work because the radiator was not grounded from the MFG. ( 5 volt reference
sensors) On top of all the things that can cause corrosion in a cooling system. Bottum line is a anode is a good idea, I would make sure it's in
a place that does not restrict flow in any way and well grounded. Just my $.02
Craig.

Anode Insurance $10 plus Shipping

How often is the sacrificial anode checked and replaced in vehicles where people have installed them. I would assume if it’s needed, there would be numerous examples where it has been consumed.

Who offers the one shown above for $9.50?

No corrosion issues that I'm aware of since installing the Z head in approximately 1987. I use a 50/50 mix of Prestone.

Horrible corrosion problems with my first Z head. I ran water soluble oil. & an anode.
I didnt know how badly corroded until I changed a head gasket. Didnt reuse that head.
Have run 2 Gimsa flat heads, Not near the corrosion problem.
Do run an anode. They can be made from water heater anode rods.
You can get better than 20 out of one rod.

Haven’t seen issues with alum heads. Did remove once an aluminum Bergs water pump, unknown what coolant used, or what circumstance, but the water inlet of the pump was corroded away inside, likely from cavitation. But those pumps are made with low quality alum castings. The Z head is good, the Prus better in casting material and the Prus head gets vacuum impregnated like all modern alum heads so they are resistant to corrosion.

IMO, the open air coolant system of the T won’t benefit from a dissolving sacrificial anode. It will just dissolve in the coolant mix, and those metals will clog up the radiator passages. Best to use 50-50 mix antifreeze and distilled water, then flush and replace each or perhaps every other year before spring season. Remember you are really wanting to protect that 100 year old iron block coolant passages, whose walls are only 1/8” thick, and have been on their way to rusting away since new. Plus save the good or new radiator from rust, oxides, or other contaminants.

Model T Ron wrote: ↑

Wed Apr 19, 2023 5:10 am

Who offers the one shown above for $9.50?

Land’s

Evans Waterless Coolant...... Eliminates corrosion and no need for sacrificial annodes in the cooling system. I have been using Evans for over 20 years, no overheating or freezing problems. My only problem was minor seepage from the hose connections.

One of the more modern coolant products, like DexCool and others, might do a better job with an aluminum head. Modern systems contain aluminum, cast iron, steel, and probably other metals, and seem to do fine when the right coolant is used. Both cast aluminum and sheet aluminum is widely used in modern systems.

Packard used aluminum heads during the 1930s and had a lot of trouble with them as did Ford.

Packard's solution was to use a steel/composite head gasket with terne-plated steel parts. See: "Terneplate"
Ford was using steel/composite head gaskets that were black in color and trademarked Graflox.

Adding a coolant overflow tank to a Model T would help reduce air entrainment in the coolant.

This would require an air tight radiator and radiator cap and a coolant reservoir with a bottom inlet connected to the radiator overflow tube. As long as some coolant was kept in the reservoir when the engine was cold, most air would be excluded. The reservor would need to be large enough to accommodate all normal expansion of the coolant, and would need to be vented to the atmosphere with a vent at least as large as the Ford radiator overflow tube. This arrangement would develop no pressure or vacuum. It would provide a liquid filled "trap" to keep air out of the cooling system, which could be expected to reduce corrosion significantly.

My experience and thoughts, I have one of the first Z heads and have always used a mix of Green Conventional antifreeze with no anode and have not had any issues. Modern engine coolant has lots of protection for the alum parts we use today.

Depends what type of oil you use... I would Always use a modern coolant! Yup, it isn't nice when it spills on the brass!!

Model T Ron wrote: ↑

Wed Apr 19, 2023 5:10 am

Who offers the one shown above for $9.50?

LANG's, SNYDER's, and CHAFFIN'S, all carry the anode.

Some additional information on heads.

You, the original poster, have a Z Head. Zajicek does not specify in its ads what type of aluminum their heads are cast from. Also, they do not specify if the aluminum castings are heat treated after casting.

On the other hand, Prus Heads are cast from 356 Aluminum, as stated in their ads, and they are heat treated to resist corrosion. In talking with Kevin, he said they are heat treated in the same manner as all automakers use on current production aluminum engine castings (and currently, there are very few automakers that don't use either aluminum blocks, or heads, or both). Kevin, also, recommends the use of DEXCOOL in the cooling system. Apparently, he feels this offers the best protection against corrosion and aids in cooling.

This information is offered to point out the differences between the two heads and is not a affirmation of either head or their manufacturer.

Do the current offerings of antifreeze, like the pink stuff, for modern aluminum head motors work better in regards to anti corrosion?
Is this fluid more forgiving on paint?

Hi John,
The propylene Glycal coolants seem to claim that. But I would read the label.
Craig.