MTFCA Forum

I have a 27-ish T with wood spoked 21" wheels. I know the car was made with parts from all over- when I respoked the wheels there were different tenon sizes which I assume mean different wheel manufacturers. I'm asking a friend who is going to Luray to find a good rim I can rotate in to replace one with welds I don't trust (signs of cracking). I hope I can fix the welds and make a spare from it.

Basic questions: will any demountable 21" rim match my wheels, or will my friend need more info? If the rim and the wheel need to be from the same manufacturer, how do I know who manufactured the wheel?

What do you look for in a rim? I've made this list so far: smooth surfaces, make sure no one drove on the flange, good welds, good holes for lug nuts, minimum rust or pitting. Anything else?

Would you expect to find some good rims at Luray? What's a fair price range for something which is safe/servicable?

Hi Arthur,
When I decided to respoke a set of wheels I had no idea what can if worms I was for. I purchased spokes for 3 wheels. Then found a equaly
good deal on a set for the other wheel, only to find out the 3 sets of spokes where 5/8" tenon and the fellows where 1/2" and the senond
set of spokes are 1/2" tenon so I had to find 3 5/8" fellows. Hope to do the spokes this year I still have to clean up the hubs & fellows.
I think you are well justified in your concern with the welded fellows. I now have enough that I would not consider using repaired ones.
I May someday but for now they are not that hard to come by.
Craig.

Best to post pictures of your wheels so they can be identified. Pictures of your wheels & rims will also help friend in matching one too.
As far as clincher rims there are some incompatible combinations. These are good links to read if interested
https://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/80257/92314.html
https://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/80257/115355.html
https://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/29/39258.html --

21" wheels do NOT take clincher rims.They require split rims with straight sided tyres. The main problems are distortion from clumsy tyre fitting, rust along the side at the split, often resulting in the rim side blowing out, and missing/damaged clips at the joint. I"m with Steve. A good one is well worth $50. Don"t forget, they do need flaps to protect the tube at the join in the rim.

Allan from down under.

Split rims for 21” tires purchased at swap meets are not “one size fits all”. Chevy 21” split rims appear almost identical to T 21” split rims… Except….location of valve stem hole in relation to the nearest lug. Unless you’re prepared to weld the Chevy hole up and drill another when fitted to the felloe. If not, measure the distance on a known Ford rim and advise your friend.

In answer to your original question, I paint my split rims with Sherwin Williams DTM (direct to metal) “Silver Brite” paint, which needs no primer. It was developed to paint metal shingled roofs and is the closest silver paint I have ever seen that looks like electroplating. Being designed for protecting metal roofs from the elements, it is very durable. Jim Patrick

$131.00 a gallon. Ouch. It does not look like they sell it in quarts, but would have to ask.

I have been getting them powder coated. Ones I did 40 years ago still look great.

I think Arthur is using the word "primer" as in a basic education, not a paint coating.

Thata way Humble !!

You guys are good! Not only did I learn what I needed to buy a new rim, I learned how to paint it. Thanks for all the info.