MTFCA Forum

To mount the two bolts on the frame rail and the ears of the oilpan.
I made two bolts with a piece of iron .
Particular the bolt near the starter .

Why go to so much trouble for something that is incorrect to begin with? First, the hole for the oil pan must line up with the frame. If not get a punch an line it up. Second, you can get a piece of tape, and place it across a box end wrench and insert it that way. I think I've also used needle nose vise grips to do the same job.

Some masking tape in a box wrench to hold the bolt makes it pretty easy to maneuver those blots into place and get the nut started. As Larry said, you do need to line up the holes 1st, and a big drift punch works great for that.. Loctite makes a product called Fun Tac, that is somewhat like silly putty but stickey. ITs great for things like this and even better to hold a screw on a screwdriver tip- like when putting in that Bendix cover screw that's kinda fun to get to.

Interesting.

Are you leaving those long stemmed bolts in place?
Seems there wouldn't be any space for the wood blocks.

Here is a tool that I made for doing the same thing. Really works good.

1. Line the holes up.

2. Slide the both up through from under the frame rail.

3. Hold the bolt in place with the square rod.

4. Get the nut started and tightened to your specs.

5. Insert cotter key/pin.

6. Insert the wood block.

I got mislead during this post. Those two bolts have never given me much grief at all. My tiny brain had me thinking of the difficulties getting the nut started on the side bolts on the starter side There's no room to jam the nut in a ring spanner to hold it and be able to get the spanner out after the nut is tightened. If the holes are not absolutely lined up so the bolt can be turned by hand, it must be done with a wrench. At this juncture, it becomes a two man job. I usually end up making a wire loop around the nut and back across the castle nut slots. A dab of RTV helps to hold it there.That way the nut can be held while the bolt is turned to engage it.

Allan from down under.

I may be seeing something that is not there but it looks like the ears have been bent and they are not sitting on the frame properly. I think all of mine sit level with the frame. Just my .02.

Dick, you are correct. I noticed the same thing. The sagging will definitely contribute to the holes' not lining up, and in addition may indicate cracking either under way or about to start. A careful examination and possible repair is in order before getting out on the road, in my opinion.