1924 Roadster Top
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Topic author - Posts: 112
- Joined: Mon Jan 07, 2019 7:13 am
- First Name: Randy
- Last Name: Brown
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1910 Speedster, 1915 Speedster, 1924 Roadster, 1926 TT, 1923 boattail (project)
- Location: Austin, Texas
- MTFCA Number: 7352
- Contact:
1924 Roadster Top
I'm installing the Classtique top kit on my '24 runabout and need the guidance of my fellow experts. Is the center strap and pad fastened to the bow or left without to facilitate folding the top down? I've been looking a videos and pictures and cannot find what I can determine one way or another. Also, for the pad installation, should it be nailed all the way through the pad or laid open and nailed through the burlap straps, or both?
The upholstery was a snap but this project is giving me fits!
The upholstery was a snap but this project is giving me fits!
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- Posts: 3298
- Joined: Tue Jan 08, 2019 10:43 am
- First Name: Larry
- Last Name: Smith
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 13 Touring, 13 Roadster, 17 Coupelet, 25 Roadster P/U
- Location: Lomita, California
- MTFCA Number: 121
- MTFCA Life Member: YES
- MTFCI Number: 16310
Re: 1924 Roadster Top
Ford put a strap inside the pads, and tacked them to the bows. You really don't need to tack the center strap to the middle bow, but it will help keep it aligned. You need to have the rear bow lean out from the back panel at least an inch. You can use a plumb bob for that, or even a bolt with a hole through it. It appears you don't have enough padding in you pads. You will also need to cut a slit in the front of the top on the right and left sides to get it to look right, and then run your hidem welt over that.
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Topic author - Posts: 112
- Joined: Mon Jan 07, 2019 7:13 am
- First Name: Randy
- Last Name: Brown
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1910 Speedster, 1915 Speedster, 1924 Roadster, 1926 TT, 1923 boattail (project)
- Location: Austin, Texas
- MTFCA Number: 7352
- Contact:
Re: 1924 Roadster Top
Larry,
Thank you for the quick reply, I really appreciate it. I'm trying to get as much accomplished before the temperature climbs over 100 degrees again.
I have about 2" of tilt (gap) towards the rear, so that should be adequate.
To keep the straps and pads aligned, I will go ahead and nail them to the center bow. Although the pictures don't show it, there is a good bit of padding inside the pads.
Any advice on reducing the wrinkles in the pad material, visible on the inside of the car? From what I see from most of the pictures from previous posts, wrinkling of some sort is unavoidable.
I will post pictures of my progress, if I'm able to call it that!
Thanks again!
Thank you for the quick reply, I really appreciate it. I'm trying to get as much accomplished before the temperature climbs over 100 degrees again.
I have about 2" of tilt (gap) towards the rear, so that should be adequate.
To keep the straps and pads aligned, I will go ahead and nail them to the center bow. Although the pictures don't show it, there is a good bit of padding inside the pads.
Any advice on reducing the wrinkles in the pad material, visible on the inside of the car? From what I see from most of the pictures from previous posts, wrinkling of some sort is unavoidable.
I will post pictures of my progress, if I'm able to call it that!
Thanks again!
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Topic author - Posts: 112
- Joined: Mon Jan 07, 2019 7:13 am
- First Name: Randy
- Last Name: Brown
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1910 Speedster, 1915 Speedster, 1924 Roadster, 1926 TT, 1923 boattail (project)
- Location: Austin, Texas
- MTFCA Number: 7352
- Contact:
Re: 1924 Roadster Top
After attempting a trial fit of the straps, pads and top, I have determined that my homemade bows are too long. I need to know the dimensions of all three bows. Thanks in advance.
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- Posts: 2400
- Joined: Fri Jan 04, 2019 4:17 pm
- First Name: Mark
- Last Name: Strange
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1924 Cut Off Touring (now a pickup)
- Location: Hillsboro, MO
- MTFCA Number: 30944
- MTFCI Number: 23667
- Board Member Since: 2013
Re: 1924 Roadster Top
From elsewhere in the forum - note that the width of the front bow isn't specified because you trim it as needed so that the top attachment brackets line up and fit onto the ends of the windshield posts.
Mark Strange
Hillsboro, MO
1924 Cut-off Touring (now a pickup)
Hillsboro, MO
1924 Cut-off Touring (now a pickup)
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Topic author - Posts: 112
- Joined: Mon Jan 07, 2019 7:13 am
- First Name: Randy
- Last Name: Brown
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1910 Speedster, 1915 Speedster, 1924 Roadster, 1926 TT, 1923 boattail (project)
- Location: Austin, Texas
- MTFCA Number: 7352
- Contact:
Re: 1924 Roadster Top
Thanks Mark!
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- Posts: 5256
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 7:21 pm
- First Name: Allan
- Last Name: Bennett
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1912 van, 1917 shooting brake, 1929 roadster buckboard, 1924 tourer, 1925 barn find buckboard, 1925 D &F wide body roadster, 1927LHD Tudor sedan.
- Location: Gawler, Australia
Re: 1924 Roadster Top
Randy, I use a tick I learned when building fixed wooden tops having thin laths to support the canvas covering. I use the same laths to hold the bows in position while the straps and pads are fitted. I clamp them to the bows while adjusting their position, and once set, you can nail them to the underside of the bows and continue to work with the straps and bag with no interference. They allow you to put tension on one side strap without that tension moving the other side of the bow.
Hope this helps.
Allan from down under.
Hope this helps.
Allan from down under.