MTFCA Forum

I've got a bit of an issue with a sediment bulb. When fully tight, the nozzle faces the two-thirty position, facing forward. I don't want to force it around further on account of the tank soldering, but when pivoted back to face directly forward, it has a tendency to seep gasoline.

Is this a common issue? Were the tank threads originally so positioned to put the build directly forward? Is the gasoila seal affecting things? How have people dealt with this, and how did Ford deal with it?

Hi Stan, the most practical thing is leave it there and just rout the gas line a little to fit.
If it works, then it works

When you peer under other Ts you may see various 'clock' positions in use

Another approach if the position bothers you would be to remove it and wrap the threads with some additional Teflon tape to tighten up the fit.

I use the yellow tape that is supposed to be more gas resistant than the white tape (although I suspect that means natural gas, not gasoline).

Permatex 2A

schmeer on the threads, install, screw until it starts to snug a little and then position it where it needs to be BEFORE it is fully socked down

It will be leak-proof forever and will stay put AND can still be taken off years later with a good wrench

Good, Old-Fashioned product that does the job admirably

Hi Adrien, realigning the gas line is definitely an option if it comes to it. Some interesting things in early photos - is this chassis being loaded fitted with a fuel line to the side? That would be interesting.

Mark, Scott, thanks for the suggestions. I've used Gasoila on the recommendation of a friend (not what's the photo) and it's good to know about options, esp as Gasoila's hard to find.

Looks like you are about fifteen degrees short of straight? Either or both a proper size pipe tap or die to ONLY VERY SLIGHTLY clean up the threads should do the trick to allow it to turn that small amount more.
Gasoline will leak through tiny imperfections that water cannot seep past. So great care should be taken to not leave any roughness or damage in the threads. Do not over cut the threads either. It doesn't take much!

If the threads are not really damaged? Very fine valve lapping compound can be worked back and forth between the tank and "potato" fittings to clean up the fit and maybe even gain a few degrees of turn. I have done that a few times.

I am with Scott Conger on the Permatex 2A! I love the stuff! It has been the best all-around gasket and pipe sealer for way over half a century! I have tried a dozen modern "new improved" or "better" ideas. And not one has favorably impressed me.
If it (the sediment bulb) was turning fifteen degrees too far? Permatex 2A is all I would use to seal it. Done that on several cars and never leaked a drop.
If you don't want to try cleaning up the threads with tap or die? I wouldn't worry about the off-straight unless you are shooting to win major awards with the restoration. Just a slight tweak of the fuel line should connect it up fine. And the Permatex should seal the leak. Use plenty of it, just not too much where it could squeeze into the fuel line and cause a restriction.

Was that picture added later??? I don't recall it and honestly, it's PERFECT at that angle. It will very nicely direct the line over toward the frame WITHOUT an added bend. Run with it!

Betcha the Ford service centers put it the position that they thought was best. And it wasn’t exactly every time.

I believe it's the camera angle that is making appear as though the gas line is headed towards the frame - I don't believe so - look at the position of the sediment bulb shut-off handle - it appears to be opposite the frame rail - IMHO !

Steve

OOPS

oh well, this was not one of my better days, was it???

thanks buddy!

I doubt the gasoline tank is actually mounted in the chassis? Nothing is square to the tank, and a bunch of stuff appears out of place in the background. Going by the relative position of the drain connection to the baffle rib, The "potato" appears to me to be about fifteen (maybe only ten?) degrees short of pointing straight ahead relative to the angle of the forward round front of the gasoline tank. Frankly, I think that would be perfect provided it wasn't leaking. If it is in fact leaking between the gasoline tank fitting and the "potato", use the Permatex number 2A (non hardening).
It may be wise to double check that the leak is actually between the fittings? I have seen quite a few old tanks leak between the tank metal and the fitting. Often, especially if the original tinning wasn't perfect, the soldering of that fitting will have failed over the years. Often, simply re-soldering the fitting will not help a lot because the metals between the pieces have become contaminated. Solder will not wick in and bond.
The best way to fix those is to remove the fitting from the tank. Not easy, three rivets and solder. Drilling, heating, prying. Then clean it all up, and tin the parts carefully. Pretty hard to re-rivet that fitting since you can't get inside to buck them. I used number 10/32 tpi machine screws and torqued (we are talking wrist tight with a hand held driver here) them down after tinning. Then applied heat and torqued them down again hot while adding fresh solder.
The tricky part of all that is holding the 10/32 screws in place while assembling. Use screws a little bit long, minimum 3/4 inch or a bit more. Feed them out from the inside. A magnet and long nose pliers can help here. Use rubber bands or clothespins to hold the screws in place while you assemble things and get the nuts started onto the screws.

ALWAYS! Be very careful with torches or flames around gasoline tanks! They can and often do go KABOOM! Even a gasoline tank that has been empty for years can hold enough lost vapor inside the surface of the steel to explode! Heat can release that vapor and it doesn't take much.
A heavy "soldering copper" (OLD technology!) or high Wattage electric soldering iron can heat that much metal and accomplish the job safely.

I once soldered a fitting like this onto a gasoline tank that was dry as the proverbial bone. No smell of gasoline at all. I had done the soldering copper method a few times, but it tends to be awkward and a bit of a juggling act if you have to do it alone. So I decided to use the torch directly on the tank. Knowing what I know, I took the usual precautions with cleaning etc. I got everything prepped and assembled. Then I Filled the tank with water such that with the fitting as close to top-dead-center as is possible for an odd cylindrical shaped gasoline tank, there was less than a half inch of air space above the water. Half way through the soldering task, the air space began to spit and flash like a sparkler! That tiny area around the fitting, hot enough to solder found enough old gasoline vapor to ignite. It was interesting! Not enough to hurt anything, other than one puff actually did blow out my torch flame! About an old toy cap-pistol's worth of fireworks? But that was what about four square inches of heated gasoline tank metal provided with too small an air space to cause an explosion. With a larger air space to collect and allow an explosion? Without the water keeping all the rest of the gasoline tank metal cool enough to not release that hidden vapor? I wouldn't want to see that!

What is the difference between Permatex #2 and 2a? I recently discovered a product called Gasoila that I'm using on those threads. Works very well.

I totally agree with Scott on the Permatex. I can attest to the slow leaking with the use of Teflon tape with petroleum based products, especially gasoline. Aviation mechanics have been advocates for the Permatex “gooey” gas and oil resistant product for decades. It can be messy to apply with its little brush but it works perfectly.

How long of a wrench are you using Stan ? Loose the Teflon tape, Permatex it up and position it where it should be - gas outlet forward.

The teflon was on the car when it arrived. I've since removed it and borrowed some gasoila, but this is beginning to weep which prompted the question of how it was done originally. Did Ford just screw it in as tight as possible?

Just found an answer from an embarrassed 1915 in a ditch. Sediment bulb facing forward. How did they get it lined up so well if all they were using were pipe threads?

You can "get-on" pipe threads pretty tight - the tank outlet has rivets besides the solder so I wouldn't be too worried to pull it around just that little bit more.

I drained the tank and removed the bulb to clean off the threads. Forgot to mention is has "M.L.Co." on the proper left hand side.

No one around here has Permatex 2A. Can I use Permatex 2 instead? What is the difference between the two? I can pick up Permatex 2 around here with no problem.

Permatex 2A on the other hand . . . unobtanium.

2, 2a & aviation are all very similar. I use the aviation. Fuel resistant & non hardening.
You can look at all 3 on line. Google each & read a picture of the label or the product specifications.
I had the same question on interchangeability. Found the aviation I have been using for decades was comparable & fine.

Thanks John, thats just what I wanted to know. Picked up some Aviation yesterday. How long do you let it set?

From the Permatex website, 2A is no longer available.

I dont use a wait time. Apply & assemble.