MTFCA Forum

My 26 coupe has beening missing on the #1cylinder. I thought maybe it was overcooling due to the new flat tube radiator so I put a thermostat in. That didn't fix it so here's a list of all I've done so far. I rebuilt the coil box, got new champion go sparkplugs and wires from Snyder's, got new wire that goes to the timer, tried switching coils around. Compression was good 50 pounds on each cylinder. I haven't looked at the timer just because I don't really have any experience with them just yet. I'm just not quite sure where to go next any suggestions are greatly appreciated. Thanks guys!

I would check the valve action & clearance.

Time to look at that timer. If it's a stock type roller timer, simply oiling it may help.

If compression is OK and the timer is clean and in good order, and it still misses, you could have a weak valve spring, or perhaps an intake manifold gasket leak.

I'd check the timer, since you've already checked many of the other common trouble spots.

TXGOAT2 wrote: ↑

Mon Sep 04, 2023 11:46 am

Time to look at that timer. If it's a stock type roller timer, simply oiling it may help.

If compression is OK and the timer is clean and in good order, and it still misses, you could have a weak valve spring, or perhaps an intake manifold gasket leak.

I'd check the timer, since you've already checked many of the other common trouble spots.

Ok I'll give it a look

What to look for timer wise.
The timer track must be smooth. Divots or wear spots cause the roller to bounce.
The roller spring must be adequate to continuously tension the roller to contacts.
The roller should not be too sloppy worn on its pin.
The inside needs periodic cleaning of the worn off metal powder & dirty oil.
Oil the roller frequently with a few drops of motor oil thru the lift oiler.

Make sure the wire terminal isn't touching the block. This happens more than people think. Also, strange as it sounds, check to make sure the wire isn't actually pinched behind the timer when the timer was re-installed. Yep..happened to me with the exact same problem showing up. Sometimes it's hard to see down in there if you don't have tons of light shining there.

Turn the ignition to battery and with the car in neutral and the front wheel blocked, turn the hand crank through 2 complete revolutions. If each coil buzzes as that piston reaches top dead center, the ignition system is working. If number one does not buzz, try grounding the small wire at the top of the coil box for number one. If it does spark when you ground the wire, your problem is either in the wire or in the timer. If it does not buzz, the problem is in the coil box. Perhaps either the contact at the top button on the coil or the one at the bottom is not contacting the coil. Since swapping the coils still results in a miss on number one, The coil is not making contact or the problem is not in the ignition. The top on the coil box should be installed which pushes the coils down to make good contact. If the top is off, that could be the cause of the problem.
Norm

This is a longshot, but I recently experienced it on my 1912 Flanders 20. The engine would Idle fine, but misfired under load (like climbing a hill). Turned out that the spark plug in cylinder #3 had a broken porcelain inside the cylinder where it couldn't be seen until the spark plugs were removed for inspection. I replaced the broken spark plug and all was well again.