MTFCA Forum

Need a little troubleshooting help please.
Accelerating in low and release of the clutch pedal: High gear shift is real sloppy now. Almost can't get into the gear.
What is the fix for this?
Thanks

High isn't really a gear, it's direct drive, so if you feel it has a drive issue in direct, it more than likely the clutch slipping. Check all the ajustments involved to make sure it is operating correctly. The Ford sevice book is a good bible to have for repairs.

Frank may be on to something. On Henrietta, if I don't make a conscious effort to make sure the handbrake lever is fully forward, the clutch is very slow to take up, and will slip if the load is increased.

Hope this helps.
Allan from down under.

It is pretty much essential to close the throttle when letting out the clutch pedal. At low rpm with low torque from the engine the high speed clutch discs will engage. Once high "gear" is engaged, then open the throttle for desired speed. As a small note, it is also very helpful to retard the spark a bit when shifting up.The engine speed will be much lower than it was in low gear, and will tend to lug somewhat. Lugging is a prime cause of membership in the two-piece crankshaft club. It has been my experience that too many people retard the spark for starting, then advance it all the way and leave it advanced. It is always pleasant to hear the engine quiet down and run smooth as silk when the spark is advanced, but at lower engine speeds the spark needs to be pulled back. Spark determines engine speed, throttle determines engine power, two very different things, albeit connected.In your modern automobile the spark advance is automatic. In Model T you are in control.With some practice and experience one can tell from engine noise when the spark setting is correct for any particular engine speed.

I fully agree with the "reduce throttle and spark" and then just "dump" the clutch (Don't feather into high) crowd and have had very good results across 1/2 dozen T's over the years...you eventually get to the point where the 'feel' is that of an automatic transmission.

I will add that for this to work consistently, you also need a carb that is set right...

Once car running and warm...lower the needle screw until you get the first sign of a sputter then quickly add 1/4 turn. Generally, this is the best fuel economy point too...you may need to add 1/4 to 1/2 turn for starting, maybe not.

Now...go out on a level road and do an upshift as described above and if it coughs cough/cough sputter/catch to get into high gear try it again on the exact same stretch with the carb opened a little more...you may be surprised.

As others point out, the adjustable actuator on the handbrake cross-shaft can NOT be on the cam with the stick full forward...

Thanks for all the comments & suggestions. What I am finding out is the clutch pedal is not coming up fully to engage high gear, I can reach down and engage with my hand and it will. About 1 to 1/2" slop in the pedal to make the full travel.

Is your handbrake lever going fully forward? If not, this can cause the problem that you are describing.

To get the best adjustment of the hand brake, remove the clevis pins at the adjustable ends of the rods under the parking brake lever on both sides. Then push the lever all the way forward. Notice, it could be stopping by hitting the floorboard if the notch is cut too far to the rear. Be sure it is all the way forward, then push the brake rods as far back as you can. You should be able to install the clevis pins without forcing or bending the rods. If not, you need to adjust the end of the rod to shorten the rod to the point you can install the pin with the lever all the way forward and the rod all the way back. When you get both sides adjusted, take the car out for a test and stop by pulling back the hand lever. If it pulls to one side, you need to adjust the opposite side one half turn and try again until it stops evenly. At that adjustment you should be able to accomplish neutral with the lever part way back and park when the lever is all the way back. The cam should clear the clutch adjustment bolt when the lever is all the way forward.

Norm

George, 1.5" of free travel in the pedal before it engages on the ramp, indicates that the pedal and/or ramp in the hogshead are well worn. Unfortunately, the cure requires removing the hogshead to replace the pedal ramp, and removing the pedal from the pedal shaft to rebuild the pedal ramp. If you can pull the pedal back with your hand, it may indicate that the pedal is ending up sitting on top of the ramp. Pull the floorboards and see what you can see. Sometimes adjusting the low speed band will make this go away, as the pedal does not travel so far up the ramp if the adjustment is well set.
I have just overcome such a problem on an older restoration, with even more pedal/ramp wear. I made a clutch linkage with a longer L piece so the pedal could be adjusted up from the floor. This allowed the pedal to engage bottom gear sooner, without the linkage going over centre when the pedal was depressed. It's a patch-up that works for the time being.

Hope this helps.'
Allan from down under.