MTFCA Forum

I ruined a modern cam/timing cover seal by trying to expand it by putting it between two pieces of wood in a vice.

Any other tips or tricks on making one of these a bit bigger so it fits more snug?

It even occurred to me to just leave it like it is and "glue" it in with RTV around the perimeter but I don't think it'll stay put.

Sand the outside edge of the seal and timing cover case, clean with acetone, install with JB Weld, let set over night.

All the Best,

Hank

I've been fitting them on rebuilds for many years using silicone sealant with no issues. Just make sure every thing is clean.

Don, you don't say whether you are fitting the seal to a cover and then fitting the cover to the motor, or are you trying to fit the seal to a cover in-situ on the motor. Cover off is much easier. but you still have to get the seal lip over the cam nut. Either way, I made a sleeve slightly larger than the seal surface on the cam nut. This goes in the seal first and then, as the cover is lined up, the seal transfers from the sleeve onto the cam nut surface without any dramas.
I have never been a fan of distorting the seal to make it a firmer fit. Instead I cut a strip of thin brass shimstock to go in the cover recess, and use Loctite on the seal and shim when fitting the seal.

Hope this helps.
Allan from down under.

The way I solve the cam oil seal from coming out or leaking, Is to clean the outside of the seal and the seal bore with acetone, let It dry than put a thin lining of ultra gray silicone sealant on the bore of the cover and push the seal into the bore, put a weight on it and let it set over night. The next day I drill and tap for 3, 6-32 flat head screws evenly spaced so the screw heads put pressure on the seal to retain it. Please see picture.

allan wrote: ↑

Mon May 20, 2019 11:54 pm

Don, you don't say whether you are fitting the seal to a cover and then fitting the cover to the motor, or are you trying to fit the seal to a cover in-situ on the motor.

I have the cover off.

Thanks for the replies everyone.

It's funny how opinions go. I've never used anything. I just tap them in, and leave it at that!

Bill, using those screws is an excellent idea. It provides an added measure of peace of mind.

Don A . I have good results as I do it as on the picture

Bill,

Love your idea!

Hank

Original Smith wrote: ↑

Tue May 21, 2019 11:47 am

It's funny how opinions go. I've never used anything. I just tap them in, and leave it at that!

There are different years of engines that, when laying the seal in the front cover, the seal has a lot of slop, about .010 to much.

When the cover is to big, we have always laid the seal on a anvil, closed side down, and taken a small ball peen hammer, and tap down the open edge of the seal, NOT with one or two taps, but with many taps, about 1/8th apart. Keep trying the seal in the cover, as it doesn't take much.

I use Indian Head gasket cement, put in the cover, and press the seal home.

You can not see at all that the seal was expanded, if you can, you went crazy with the hammer, and some one should take it away from you.

I do not like to put any thing between the seal, and the cover, as the seal needs to be centered.

I put a little gun grease on the cam nut, and when the seal is slipped over the nut, I use a scalpel, side ways, and go around the seal, side ways, and slip the seal lip over the nut.

I put modern seals on the crank, fill the plate with Clear R.T.V., drop the seal in the cover, and bolt it down, to Cure, over night

Just a thought here, as I said, we use clear R.T.V. We used to use Black, Blue, the calf s&%$ Yellow, ect. I didn't like the results. I don't like it on gaskets we use Indian Head on all gaskets, as we never have any leaks with that. But a engine builder, one of our steady customers, told me that they wouldn't use anything, but clear. The reason being, all R.T.V. starts with clear, and to get colors, they put in a colored Pigment, and that doesn't do as good adhering to the metal, as it diluted, that what I found out the first time I used the clear.

Herm.

Two pieces of wood and a vice works; you just have to do it a little bit. Measure before and after. You're only looking for 0.005"-0.010" diametric growth typically. Seals are cheap, so my suggestion is to try it again, but any of the above will work, too. If you're using an oiled timer, it doesn't have to be perfect - the felt wasn't. If you're using a brush timer, it needs to be pretty much perfect.

More excellent advice....thank you.

If you are using a plate style distributor, do you use a cam seal?
I thought you would want oil to get up to the distributor drive gears.

Be careful buying cheap RTV.

I only use Permatex Ultra Black RTV. Let it cure over night and you won't need to worry or install retainer screws if you have removed all the oil from the mating surface!

Most guys here also use it to retain a modern seal on the outside of the cover on the crankshaft. Guarantees a leak free chankshaft seal