MTFCA Forum

https://youtu.be/HB82lwJAGdM?si=B0NxJN-t9EQh2Kzz. ........ Young fun ! Roads in the woods

It won't run long if they drive it like that. I don't like the language they use either. It should not overheat on such a level road. Something wrong with cooling system and should wait longer before pouring in water. Also should go very slow through the water.
They will learn! Maybe!
Norm

And spark lever was only down 3-4 notches for most of their trip and that did add to the overheating along with the water pump and no radiator cap on. Easy starting , ignition sounded great.

Moxie26 wrote: ↑

Sun Oct 29, 2023 9:17 pm

And spark lever was only down 3-4 notches for most of their trip and that did add to the overheating along with the water pump and no radiator cap on. Easy starting , ignition sounded great.

Are you saying that the water pump could cause overheating? Not to start a whole other long thread on water-pumps vs no water-pumps, but I've been curious about that. My '26 came with one and I've toyed with taking it off. I've also wondered if the water-pump moves water through too fast thus not allowing it to cool sufficiently. Any truth to the theory?

Coolant loss thru radiator fill : results from a complete open fill minus the cap and the water pump forcing circulation to spew out.... less coolant, more increased coolant temp with less volume .... IF the driver advanced the spark lever, engine would have worked at a lower temp,---- butt ( ha ha ) ---- would probably take less time to overcome engine temp. Our '26 runs as Ford made without problems.

CatGuy, I'm a retired mechanical engineer and the early part of my career was designing heat transfer equipment for the oil and gas industry. Your water pump (if functioning properly) can only help the heat transfer rate. The faster the coolant flows the better as long as its not so fast that it chokes the radiator which will never happen with "T's" pump. Resonance time will not factor in the radiators design. Pump away!!!!

A water pump is placed usually because there is already a blockage in the radiator or that the fins have corroded at the connection with the tubes in the radiator causing reduced heat transfer and less efficiency of the radiator. If the tubes become clogged to the point the pump moves water to the top faster than it can move through the radiator, it could cause a problem of overflow.
Norm

CatGuy wrote: ↑

Mon Oct 30, 2023 10:22 am

I've also wondered if the water-pump moves water through too fast thus not allowing it to cool sufficiently. Any truth to the theory?

No.

If it's going through too fast to cool sufficiently, then it's also going through too fast to heat sufficiently.

SteveK wrote: ↑

Mon Oct 30, 2023 11:08 am

CatGuy, I'm a retired mechanical engineer and the early part of my career was designing heat transfer equipment for the oil and gas industry. Your water pump (if functioning properly) can only help the heat transfer rate. The faster the coolant flows the better as long as its not so fast that it chokes the radiator which will never happen with "T's" pump. Resonance time will not factor in the radiators design. Pump away!!!!

Thank you!

Is this the future of our great hobby and of the preservation of the history of the model t.

Art Mirtes.

I had a water pump on my car but it didn;t seem to move much water. I took it off, and found 2 issues - one, the outlet of the pump (inlet to the block) was half blocked by casting flash when it was made (!!), and the vanes were set up like mixer blades, not water pushers.

I opened up the outlet hole, and replaced the impeller with one we fabbed up to actually be an impeller, not a paint stirrer. Put it all back together, and all of the sudden you could see water flowing into the radiator top tank... which was a first. The car would always run at the top of the motometer (and have a steam bath out the bottom), after the mods the motometer dropped to the lower 1/3 of the glass and the "espresso maker" out the bottom was almost nil.

So yeah, I could see where some pumps actually don't pump. I really wanted to put one of my Atlas pumps on it and see if it worked, as it was a more modern design (and lived in the cool water area to push water up the pipe) than the whatever it was on the side of the engine.

That splash in the water which stopped the engine reminded me of something that happened to me many years ago. I worked as a Telephone repairman and was sent up Chevy Chase Canyon in Glendale, Ca. to do some work. That road was built right down the center of the bottom of the canyon and had the center of the road lower than the sides so that the water could run down the road when it rained. I was working on a pole with the truck parked next to it in the rain. suddenly there was a flash flood and the truck started going down the road. I was able to climb on the back and ride it downstream until it stopped on some sand. It was wet all around the spark plugs and I dried it off and got the engine started. Drove it the rest of the day and finished my shift (no more calls in the canyon). By the time I got back the engine was knocking. I was able to get into the garage and the mechanics looked at it and found the crankcase was full of water. That was the end of that truck.
Norm

Lets not over analyze there guys too much.
To me the point is that these 2 guys are enjoying the model T's.
I like their channel and their content mostly wwii budget reenacting. They do have a few other videos with the Model T.
Be glad its not another whistlindiesel video.
And I'm sure not everyone was so gentile on their t's when they started in the hobby.
If we dont promote the hobby to more people, where will we be in 20 years?
Let them enjoy their car, they're not doing that to the no. 2 1908 t.

Art M wrote: ↑

Mon Oct 30, 2023 5:44 pm

Is this the future of our great hobby and of the preservation of the history of the model t.

Art Mirtes.

Yes it is. At that age in my life I did things that I look back at that were completely asinine! Those kids are hooked now!