MTFCA Forum

Since you have to pull the hogshead to use whatever sealant, you may as well put the correct gasket there instead while it's off. And while it's off, you can figure out why it's leaking from that spot - I know T's mark their spots, but that's an unusual place to have an oil leak...

Seal the valve cover hole & engine block around where the throttle rod goes thru. (if you have a single valve cover door)
Put a shop-vac hose into the oil filler.
Spray some brake cleaner around the suspected leak. The brake cleaner will pull into the hole & clean off the oil.
Squirt a bead of ultra black in & around the hole. Let it suck enough into the hole to seal. Shut off the vacuum & let the silicone set over night.

No need to pull the HH & have the same leak or worse on the next attempt to seal.

Is it possible to take a picture of the area where it leaks? Right rear of hogs head is very close to the Universal joint and could be coming from that area.
Norm

Thanks for the replies.

Will post a pic of the area tomorrow morning.

Here’s some new T’s in 1927 doing their thing in a Ford showroom. I guess it was expected.

Leaking, (self chassis lubricating) is built into the design & has gotten worse with wear.
It is controllable to completely stoppable via modern seals & sealers.
My most recent motor doesnt leak a drop. We shall see how long this lasts.

Believe what John posted above regarding using the shop vac. I told a friend about John's method and he had 100% success using it to stop a huge hogshead leak. Key is to get everything as clean as possible 1st. Joe says thanks John!!

Glad others are able to use this trick passed to me from an old friend.

I have used this method to chase leaks on a very poorly assembled motor/transmission. After 4 days/sessions the gasket leaks were ALL gone.
Pedal shafts are another matter requiring a lot more & different kind of work.

I chased an oil leak down near both lower corners of the hogshead - turns out someone previously had used too long of bolts on the field coil mounting holes down on both bottom block holes and just "cracked" through the casting - copious amount of Brakleen then black RTV and bye-bye oil leak !

Never use a flammable solvent around a shop vac.

BTW, your transmission cover is upside down. V goes down to drip on the band centers.
N/A if you have a screen.

speedytinc wrote: ↑

Wed Nov 01, 2023 10:26 am

BTW, your transmission cover is upside down. V goes down to drip on the band centers.
N/A if you have a screen.

…And that’s probably why it doesn’t seal good. It doesn’t seat properly against the hogshead.

That inspection plate is easy to remove. Just 6 screws. A little sealer on top of the hogs head then a new gasket with no sealer on top of the gasket. Turn the plate over so the V is down and tighten. Start with the two center screws and then the outer screws later. After you tighten all 6 of them start again and tighten as tight as you can with the screw driver but not enough to strip the threads or break the screws. Should be good. Since you have already tightened the screws, you could try it as is and maybe not need to replace the gasket at this time.
Norm