MTFCA Forum

The mag was ok except the revs would drop back when switching from Batt to mag at a fast idle.
So I set the car up and used the compass method which I have used twice before over the years on different T's with great results. Its very hard to be confident you have the North part correct and I obviously didn't have it set right resulting in completely losing all charge! Read nothing on my Mag meter and engine would cut out when switched to Mag.
Bugger...
I then remember reading a slightly different method that Tom Carnegie of Spokane had posted.
Remove trans cover, turn the engine over and look for 2 Brass screws to line up parallel with the floor. A simple and quick method compared to compass method.
I removed the mag post this time, wrapped a bolt up to insulate it and placed in the hole.
3 good 12v Batteries, Positive jumper lead on the bolt, Neg used to apply 6 Sparks against the Hogs head.
Then I refitted the mag post, Positive lead on here and gave it another 6 sparks on the same spot.


Road tested and the car now purrs like a kitten on mag with no drop off of at any rev.
Thanks Tom, this is my go to method from here on.

And look at the Mag output now....Check the video

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k2g7YG9j6As

I was skeptical but I used Tom’s method with positive results

Andy

"I removed the mag post this time, wrapped a bolt up to insulate it and placed in the hole.
3 good 12v Batteries, Positive jumper lead on the bolt, Neg used to apply 6 Sparks against the Hogs head.
Then I refitted the mag post, Positive lead on here and gave it another 6 sparks on the same spot."

You used a bolt on the magneto contact, then put the mag post in & did it again????
A) The point of using the bolt is to not damage the mag post.
B) Any more than ONE strike with a strong power source is redundant & unnecessary. (I know we cant resist)
C) The point of removing the mag post is to not anneal the spring from the big power surge.

You can use a compass AFTER aligning the magnets via their centering viewed thru the HH inspection cover to confirm polarity.
However, Tom C's method of a very hot jolt & changing the polarity doesnt effect magnetic charge retainment.

Yes, Tom Carnegie has the best and simplest method for charging the T magnets in the car!! He has done extensive research and testing with multiple winning results running the Montana 500. Check out his detailed video and posting.
Thanks Tom for sharing

Do you have a link tonTom’s procedure?

2nd entry on this post:
https://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/5 ... 1427678826

I don't understand all of that east-west compass stuff. The mag is dead. What little magnetism that is left is immaterial. Here is how I have been charging mags in the car for years with pretty much a 100% success rate.

1. Pull the transmission band door off so you can see the flywheel.
2. Turn the motor over until any two off the brass screws are in a line that is parallel to the ground. In other words the two screws are evenly spaced.
3. Remove the mag plug.
4. Procure a strong DC voltage source of 36 or more volts. Several batteries or a DC arc welder work well.
5. Put some tape around a punch or bolt or some such thing and hold it onto the mag terminal through the mag plug hole. The tape is to keep the bolt from shorting to the hogshead hole.
6. Make a connection to the bolt from terminal of the power source.
7. With the other terminal of the power source, flash the chassis several times. I do eight flashes, just out of habit.
8. Reassemble and test.

If it doesn't take on the first try for some reason (usually operator error) retry.

Be very careful, especially on 26-7 T's to not short the terminal to anything, especially the gas tank. It is quite possible for an errant terminal to short onto the gas tank and pierce it and cause a fire. Also take any other precautions that one would need to take with sparks flying about.