MTFCA Forum

So i ordered 2 gas shut off valves that are the 90 degree that go by the carburetor from langs. Whats the difference betweed the old ones and new ones?

The. "old" one is activated by the sediment bowl lever, the new shutoff installed at the carb came after production ceased.

Main reason is to avoid crawling under the car to shut it off.
Norm

Austin about 4 feet and you don’t crawl under the car.

Guys: I think he is asking what is different between the old right angle carb mount cutoffs and the new right angle carb mounted cutoffs.

I have been told that the new ones have been known to leak. I have not used any new ones, just reporting what I have heard.

My "old" one not only leaked, it became very hard to turn off/on without pliers.

Allan from down under.

Are you talking about flat handle VS rounded handle, both fairly modern?

My 1924 has the newer, "flat handle" valve. Once a month or so, I disassemble the valve and lubricate it with "EZ-turn", available from the vendors.

https://www.modeltford.com/item/2902LUB.aspx

I know this is going to sound a bit unsafe, but it works for me.

Round handle, 90 degree valve. Works good for a while, then wants to stick and/or leak.

For the 'stick' on opening, a pull tension upwards while turning, case closed...works and does not stick.

For the leak on closing, when closed I give it a tap with a wrench, no leaks! Forget to tap? Get a puddle.

Someone above recently said to rebuild it with a sealing goo from time to time and that's probably the best solution...I've thought of a toothpaste lap...but I think that may make even more 'stick' if it isn't lubed?

George has the correct procedure for both types of valves - simply lift up a smidge off the seat BEFORE turning then simply apply a bit of downward pressure - no leaks !

I have always did the same procedure as George on all the "taper seat" type of valves. That includes the oil peacocks on the crankcase. I keep the pliers easy to find in the tool kit and use them to open or close the valves. After closing the valves just a light tap or two with the pliers to re-seat the taper, and never any leaks.

I like the old design, because it really looked period correct. I'm lucky to have one on all of my cars.

I agree Larry - they appear to have been made like the original oil /radiator petcocks. The newer repro style has a shorter spring and a screw holding it together.

Dan Hatch wrote: ↑

Fri Jan 12, 2024 4:39 am

Guys: I think he is asking what is different between the old right angle carb mount cutoffs and the new right angle carb mounted cutoffs.

I have been told that the new ones have been known to leak. I have not used any new ones, just reporting what I have heard.

Yes, this is what I mean. I have only been in the hobby a few years, and i heard on an earlier thread how they don't make.the old ones anymore, and they were apparently better than the onea they have now? I was asking since i dont have any experiences with the old design.

This is what i ordered.

That style works just fine IF you take the time to lift the handle up just a smidge BEFORE turning. It's alot better than some of the cobbled up plumbing store hardware I've seen installed !

I have a new one I purchased from Lang’s. I too found over time that it became more difficult to operate, to the point of using pliers to turn it. I took it apart thinking that debris might be causing the issue. What I found was after cleaning, it worked fine for a while then reverted back to almost impossible to turn. Upon the second or third disassembly I chose not to tighten the screw that secures the valve as tight as it would go. I think the spring tension against the screw holding it together is too much, pulling the taper valve too deep into the body. My solution was to back the screw off a bit. To keep it in place, I staked a couple of threads a bit to provide interference to the valve body. It has been working fine now for several months without leaking or becoming progressively difficult to use.

Scott