MTFCA Forum

How do you replace a 4 hole handbrake quadrant.

Does the running board and splash guard need to be removed, can you remove the splash guard without removing the touring body?

Do you grind off the rivet heads, considering that there is gallons of fuel in close proximity and the fuel line and (leaking) carby is within spark range.

Any advice would be appreciated.

For the leaky carb shut off the fuel first and drain the bowl if you are concerned,

Work from the outside of the chassis.

You can hand file the rivet head to give a small flat and dot punch centre then drill off the head which avoids sparks (use a bigger bit than the rivet hole and stop just when the head comes loose), then punch the rivet through - its tricky lining up the drill which is why grinding and punching out is easier.

It is possible (with patience) to hand file the head flat and then punch the rivet through. Lying down you may be able to do that with the valance in place.

You should not really make much in the way of sparks or heat grinding if you do short dabs at a time, but keep an extinguisher handy all the same, consider putting a resistant blanket behind the work or a bit of ply to catch sparks if you are worried.

I would recommend taking the valance off to give good access - the time and frustration saved trying to work around will be worth the work to remove the guard. I don't think you need to remove the running board.

The replacement quadrant can be bolted in (grade 5s work).

Adrian,

Thanks for that advice.

I'm close to eighty but have a car stacker where I can get underneath.

I have organised some "readers' because I cannot see with multifocal glasses.

I know I can remove the running board but can I remove the valance without lifting the body off the chassis?

It is an Australian made body where the body wood surrounds the quadrant so I cannot just use a file to improve the teeth.

That seems strange that you have no room, the rivets are a very soft mild steel and should be able to smack the heads off with a good chisel.

Why do you want to remove the quadrant? If the teeth are worn down, you can file new teeth onto the existing quadrant with a dremel tool quipped with a metal cutting wheel, if you take your time and are meticulous and careful. Jim Patrick

If the quadrant is worn replace it. I agree a sharp chisel works great. Provided you have the room to Hammer on the chisel.
If the quadrant is worn the hand lever pawl is probably also worn to match it. This should also be replaced to match the new quadrant.
There is also the possibility that the hand brake pivot point is worn a few thousands allowing the pawl to drop away from the quadrant teeth. A small aluminum can shim can remedy this temporarily until those parts are returned to spec. Adding a spring to the pawl will keep it tight. Vendors sell the spring. I don’t know what body parts would be in the way. I had a bare frame and bucked new rivets back in when I refurbished mine. It’s not to hatful of a job. Bolts would be the easiest thing if originality isn’t an issue though.
Bryant

My rivets came off easily with an air chisel and sharp tool. Bolted the new one on as I wasn't up to beating rivets on a finished car.
Be aware that the Langs part notes that it is forged, Believe it! The whole part is forged and brittle. Good for keeping the teeth sharp, bad for adjusting it to fit the tang and brake pivot, don't try to bend the part or you will be getting out the welder like I had to.

Hi Brendan,

I see the issue with the body. Alan may have a better knowledge of Australian bodies and clearance. In NZ they used mainly standard Canadian ones and I have not seen an Aussie made one here.

The cold chisel may be an option if you can locate a younger chap willing to hit it?

Kind regards
Adrian

If the cold chisel doesn't work, you are left with drilling the rivets out, so the valance panel needs to be removed, and that means the running board too.
The back two rivets could be drilled off from the INSIDE, but to do the same with the front two, you would need to remove the hogshead! I reckon the valance panel would be easier.
The barn fresh car I am working on at present has hex head nuts and bolts on the quadrant. A bit neater fix may be button head set screws if originality is not your game.

I was interested in the comment that Lang's quadrants are forged. I can't see the logic in that. Initially, repops had the teeth on the quadrant stamped out. This resulted in the metal being dumped somewhat and the width [wear surface] reduced. Then they appeared to be laser cut, leaving a full width tooth and some evidence of blueing, suggesting that there was some heat treatment going on. Altogether a great solution. Have things changed again.

Finally, I consider hand filing "new" teeth to be an exercise in futility. For a start, I know of no file which will produce teeth with the appropriate rake to suit the pawl. If you resort to a Dremel tool to shape them, good luck with getting consostency of profile. So much time and effort to produce a second rate job when perfectly adequate replacement parts are available, except for RHD pawls.

Allan from down under.