MTFCA Forum

Should these be peened flat? I'd there a torque setting?

Originally, they were peened over - I prefer Blue Loktite & a few of stakes with a prick-punch. No torque - just tight.

For the front studs Steve's idea is about the best. Now the inside of the rear studs however, MUST be peened over pretty good if you wanna make sure the nuts don't work loose. As a matter of annual maintenance I just give my front wheel lugs a "wrench test" to make sure everything's ok. So far never a problem.

The left rear studs were not peaned over on my 20 roadster with Pasco wheels and I didn’t check them. The wheel left us and travelled nearly a quarter mile across a field at a national tour. I thank God we found it! Lesson learned. Don’t trust prior owners workmanship!

Those are hub bolts and nuts. When peening the bolts you only need to dump the thread enough to stop the nut from starting to unwind, not flatten them completely. As already mentioned, peening will allow subsequent tightening if needed. Just add more tension to the nut, and re-peen the bolt end. The only disadvantage to peening the bolts is they cannot be re-used. Grinding off the peened end makes them too short to re-use. Winding the nut off over the peening will likely damage both nut and bolt. Not re-using the bolts is probaby a good idea anyway, especially the soft items available form the vendors.
That said, I do grind the bolt ends off so I can save the original nuts. The new thin nuts are smaller, exactly uniform, soft and strip easily. Originals are larger. Being stamped they each vary in appearance. They are more robust. When compared with new replacements, they just look so much more "correct".

Allan from down under.

Thanks for the correction on nomenclature.

I reassembled tonight and am curious of torque. I'd there a number or do I use the German specifications.

Vincent, do you mean "schneizentite"? That ought to do it!

Allan from down under.

Gutentite!