MTFCA Forum

I have a 1926 fordor model t and no i am not large but the steering column in this car is still tool long i am finishing the new upholstery right now and will sit in it again just to make sure but i feel it is way too close even with the door open it really extends back i am considering shortening it by about four inches. I have searched here and there are threads from the past on this. I see two ways to do this i can cut the shaft down and have it re-machined with the taper and keway cut or i am thinking i could cut the shaft v the ends reweld and put a collar over it and weld the ends of the collar to the shaft. All of this would have to be done to keep it straight in a lathe and i believe there is enough room in the column tube itself to allow this . Is a 26-27 steering column in a fordor different or all 26-27 closed cars the same column.

The back of the front seat on our 27 Fordor was moved rearward a couple inches, and the padding thinned, during restoration. It's still not real handy to enter and exit the driver's door. I use the passenger door almost all of the time.

Just my opinion, but I would never intentionally cut and splice a steering column. If I were going to shorten a steering column, the only way that I would do it would be to cut however much I wanted to remove from one end or the other, and then machine it as necessary to replicate the original end. Having a steering column snap would be really ugly and perhaps fatal.

Have you considered moving the front seat back?
The Model T Ford service manual section for the 26-27 Model T’s shows how to move the front seat back for the Tudor sedan and Coupes but the Fordoor sedan isn’t mentioned. Maybe it can but I don’t know as I don’t own the so called improved car as Ford called them!

You’re not the first to find the closed cars aren’t very roomy for some drivers. I have a 24 Coupe and it’s really close for me for my 6’3” size. I’ve gotten use to squeezing in like most T drivers have done over the years. But it is tight. Every once and awhile other new T owners have written about the tight fit on the forum.
I guess we have gotten use to modern cars with their continence’s in this day and age.
Good luck

I cut 4 inches from the shaft and the column. It made a huge difference. I cut and machined the shaft. The column can be shortened without removing the spark and throttle rods if done carefully. I am not a fan of cutting and welding the shaft.

Is it possible the upholstery is “overstuffed” and/or the seat springs are too thick? I’ve seen this on several restored T’s.

Find someone with an original Fordor that still has the original FORD interior. Sit in it and compare.

The Fordor seat back is fastened to the B-pillars and provides cross car body stability. It can’t be moved. The Fordor steering column is the same as the others. A smaller diameter steering wheel may help a bit

One way you can "move the seat back a couple inches would be to take strong wire and pull the springs down and back. Tie them in such a way that they are even all the way around. Then install the burlap and a little less cotton. This way you will still have a comfortable and not have to shorten the column. The way the steering shaft is made on the T, you should not have any sleeve welded onto it because the upper end must fit through the gear box and you will not be able to put it through if you have a sleeve. Best way would be to shorten the lower end and turn on a lathe the end where the arm fits. Also cut a groove for the key and thread for the nut and drill for a cotter pin. it would be a very hard job. Another thing you could do instead of shortening the shaft would be to install the smaller diameter steering wheel from an earlier year. It would be a bit harder to steer, but would save you a lot of work.
Norm

The steering shaft should only be cut at the end and a new taper, keyway and thread cut. A side benefit is an unworn section of the shaft will now be running in the lower bracket bronze bushing.

Allan from down under.

The positioning of the steering column and wheel relative to the door entry is poor. Also the handbrake gets in the way! Best to get used to entering via the passenger side or another option is to purchase a folding Fatman steering wheel to allow better access. They are available and would be a better option than the cut and shut of steering components or trying to mess with a seat frame which is part of the body strength and construction.

First of all many good points have been made one could weld the shaft as i proposed and it could be fixed so that it would not break that said you would not be able to pull the shaft out thru the steering gear case as mentioned in one of the posts the best and correct way is to remove the shaft and cut it down four inches machine a new taper and keyway in the shaft need to check not at all sure what that would cost also not sure how the spider end of the shaft with the three triple gears is fastened to the steering shaft either someone makes new steering shafts snyders and langs has them however they are not like the original shafts, while welding could be done it is not a method i would prefer at all. I will take an old steering column shaft to a machine shop and check cost i have considered a swing away wheel right now that accessory is un available so are smaller diameter steering wheels and spiders i can get in the car and sit in it with some clearance so i can drive the car but it would be much more enjoyable with a little more room. since this is a restoration i have upholstered the seats i have taken out some of the padding and that also helps had to do a little work on the seat cushions as well to get them to ffit into place it is not possible to move the seat rearward in a fordor for the reasons someone else here has suggested. Yess coupes are tight tudor cars are better for room. I appreciate all of the suggestions and comments as well i just posted some options welding being by far the least desirable and something that could be done and not be a problem but it would just create another problem.

Two ways to look at this scenario, one is to shorten the steering and the other is to move back or otherwise increase the distance between the seat back and steering. I would look at all options of the later. If you reduce the steering column length, you have not done anything about the distance to the pedals and foot rest floorboards. Moving the seat back, or reducing the seat size or cushion size would help in many ways.
In the WWII jeep hobby, reducing the size of the seat bottom, tilting the seat back at more of an angle and finding marine steering wheels that are a smaller diameter are the preferred methods, not cutting steering shafts.
I am 5 ft 16" tall, so feel your pain.

I'm not sure why you want to do this. Is it just so that you can enter the car using the driver's side door? If so, it's not worth it.

I'm a fairly big guy. I have a '26 Fordor. I have zero problems with the length of the steering column. Also, since I/we don't know you, and since we have no idea what your skill level is, I would NOT encourage you to modify your steering column in any way.

I have a 26 Roadster and a 26 Touring. Both have a door on the driver's side. I can get in and out with effort. A man with longer legs might not be able to do so. I need to get my butt over the door post while my foot goes behind the brake lever and under the steering wheel. Much easier to get in through the passenger door. The earlier cars of the same two types had no door on the driver's side. I understand that the door was not really meant for entering the car, but so that the same body could be used for cars sold in areas where they drive on the left side of the road. A Centerdoor is even harder to enter. Your car is actually easier to enter and exit than most, except for the very early ones without front doors.
Norm

Jerry the length of the steering column will have no effect on your relationship of your feet to the pedals i would like a little more room between me and the steering wheel i could use a smaller wheel but i would like a little more just my preference as to skill level or my ability to do this correctly and safely that is the only way i would do it i have been building things welding and machining for over 45 years but i do appreciate what all you gentlemen have to offer in opinions and advice.

to everyone that has a fordor. I need the top and bottom door hinges . They seem to be the same on each door just flipped over. Its a 26. The part or barrel that the pin fits in is 1/2" od. I have found some 5/8 " od but they are not the right ones. Can someone help me. I will also post this in classfieds

I have the hinges. I have a coffee can full of Fordor parts from a cut-down car that my uncle built into a depot hack in the 1960's. He had scrapped the body and saved the hardware. Send me you address and I'll ship them.

Steven, I have three 26/27 Fordor's. Two of which I drive often, and I am larger than I would like to be. I have plenty of room. Are you sure the steering column is mounted correctly in the car? It can be mounted on the wrong side of the firewall. I don't understand why you would not have all the room you need. I can give you measurements from the steering wheel to the seat back or pictures of how it is mounted or anything you need if you would like. 731-618-0207

rnwilliams wrote: ↑

Thu Mar 07, 2024 1:04 pm

Are you sure the steering column is mounted correctly in the car? It can be mounted on the wrong side of the firewall.

Good point Ricky. I have seen columns with the flange on the interior side of the firewall.

Thank you Mark you guys rang a bell and Richard i will be calling you as well

Hi Steve,
If room is the only consideration I have a unorthodox idea. Some time ago I made a fat man steering wheel using mostly ford stamped steel
spiders, it was going to move the wheel closer to the driver & that was not going to make it easier to drive. I took one of the large spiders
and reformed it to fit the smaller wheel. This would move the wheel away from you & the smaller wheel will give you more room at the door Craig.

Thank you Craig yes that would help but i really want to stick with the steering wheel i have so i am still working on the seat upholstery to get a good final fit and go from there i will post pictures with me in the car and clearance one gentleman suggested i may have the column installed wrong he and i conversed that is not my problem. I do appreciate all the input.

I don't have a Fordor but I worked on a friend's 1926 Touring some time back. I noted that the column was binding in the bracket at the frame. A look in the Model T Parts Manual showed that there was a difference in the lower mounting bracket on a Fordor. The Fordor bracket sets the column at a steeper angle. With that said, I had no reason at that time to check to see if there was a different column for a Fordor...there might be. Maybe the flange is at a different angle where it attaches to the dash on a Fordor or maybe the dash has an upset in that area so the same column could be used. Maybe there was a change over time or different manufacturers?

bnchief wrote: ↑

Tue Mar 05, 2024 9:21 am

I have a 1926 fordor model t and no i am not large but the steering column in this car is still tool long i am finishing the new upholstery right now and will sit in it again just to make sure but i feel it is way too close even with the door open it really extends back i am considering shortening it by about four inches. I have searched here and there are threads from the past on this. I see two ways to do this i can cut the shaft down and have it re-machined with the taper and keway cut or i am thinking i could cut the shaft v the ends reweld and put a collar over it and weld the ends of the collar to the shaft. All of this would have to be done to keep it straight in a lathe and i believe there is enough room in the column tube itself to allow this . Is a 26-27 steering column in a fordor different or all 26-27 closed cars the same column.

Just double checking
Is it the steering column or the steering wheel that is causing the interference. A 1 inch smaller diameter (1920-25) may be a simpler solution or in addition to seat adjustments
STEERING WHEEL
1909-1910
Bronze spider and nut. 14-1/4” O.D. (12-1/2” I.D., 1” thick) wood rim was painted black. Note: most recent data shows the wheel to be 13” O.D. but this is apparently the result of latter-day reproduction wheels. No original 13” wheels have been found on Ford cars.
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1911-1912
Bronze spider. Redesigned wheel now 12-3/8” I.D. and 1-1/8” thick (14-3/4” O.D.) wood rim painted black. Bronze spider believed to have been painted black in later production
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1912-1920
Malleable iron spider, painted black. 12-1/4” I.D., 1-3/8” thick) 14.59” O.D. wood rim painted black until about 1919, then made of “Fordite” composition material. The malleable iron spider was changed to the pressed steel design late in the era (date unknown)
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1920-1925
Pressed-steel spider, painted black. 16” O.D. wheel. (June 1920)
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1925-1927
Similar to 1925 but now 17” O.D.

I am making some adjustment in the seat back padding and seat cushions first to get it all in to fit properly at that time i will try it again i could get in i just find the wheel too close but i have not come to decision yet i will let folks know what i do and how if anything.