MTFCA Forum

My truck came with virtually no cotter pins on the castle nuts so I've been going through adding them everywhere they belong. My steering works fine with no binding but the bolt through the castle nut on the tie rod end will not budge. I've soaked it for 2 weeks with PB Blaster and even used an impact hammer to see if it would move, but it will not. So before I put the heat to it, I was wondering if i'm missing something? Its the first bolt on the truck I have not been able to break free. Thanks in advance for comments!

Steve

The tie rod bolt screws into the yoke, the nut is a lock nut. Remove the nut first then unscrew the bolt.

Use a 6 point socket so it will not slip on the nut and a 2' handle. Then if it still will not budge, take a hammer and hit the handle like an impound. It should either loosen the nut or break off the bolt. If that doesn't work, Take a long pipe and slip over the handle. Then you can get the bolt out. You will then need a new bolt. Another idea would be to take a center punch and put a dimple right in the center of the bolt end and then drill out the bolt.
Norm

New tie rod bolts come with new nuts, so you can get rough with that one. Have someone back the nut with a heavy dolly and use a cold chisel on the opposite side. You can do that on three of the sides You will be upsetting any rust bond, and expanding the nut a little. If that does not loosen it, keep on with the chisel and the nut will split.

Allan from down under.

Peter Martin wrote: ↑

Mon Mar 18, 2024 11:44 pm

The tie rod bolt screws into the yolk, the nut is a lock nut. Remove the nut first then unscrew the bolt.

As Peter says, do not remove the bolt... remove the nut, then unscrew the bolt.

Uh. . . For now, it aint broke, don’t need fix.
No cotter pin ? It’s not going anywhere with all that paint on it. Save the disassembly for when you rebuild your front axle. Just a thought.

Maybe the antirattler is causing it to bind?

Thanks everyone for the great suggestions. I do feel I need to fix it since its steering and if it ever decided to bind, things could get ugly! I'll order a new set of rebuilding kits today. I did try a cheater the other day on the castle nut and it felt like the bolt was starting to torque so I stopped. Once I have the rebuilding kit I'll get ugly with it and just wind up replacing all of the components. I'm guessing the bushings will also be lots of fun to remove

Thanks

Steve

Once you get it all rebuilt, throw away the anti-shimmy spring that's currently on that tie rod end.

Jerry VanOoteghem wrote: ↑

Tue Mar 19, 2024 1:24 pm

Once you get it all rebuilt, throw away the anti-shimmy spring that's currently on that tie rod end.

Jerry is correct

If left in place for a while that hardened spring accessory will indeed wear its imprint on the knuckle of the spindle arm

There is a simple tool you can buy called a nut splitter that makes removing rust on nuts a cinch. They are available in different sizes. I used a cold chisel to split nuts on exhaust manifolds on my antique tractors until I got these tools. Be careful to not mess up the threads on the bolt as you could damage the threads inside the yoke as well. Perhaps a thread chaser could be used after you get the nut off to aid in removing the bolt. Good luck!

Received my parts and rebuilt both sides of the tie rod ends and removed the anti shimming springs that were cutting into the fittings. Thanks all for the suggestions. I also find that my tie rod has about a 1/2” bend so I’m debating with myself if it’s worth messing with? The bend is opposite the front axel and I have a spring compressor that would make it easy pull the rod straight using the front axel as a brace. I would support both ends with some wood blocks. So is 1/2” worth fixing or would I run the risk of breaking something?

Thanks

Steve

Straighten it & check/reset the toe in.

It needs to be straight.

This thread is about straightening a drag link but the suggestions and Ken's straightening devices would work for tie rods too.

https://www.mtfca.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=42093

Steve, I suspect your tie rod is bowed rather than bent. That is, it is gently curved for its whole length rather than kinked at any one spot.

If that is the case just clamp it in a vice and pull on it a little. Move it and pull again. Working your way along the rod a little at a time will do the job.

Allan from down under.

Allan, thanks for the suggestion. It was actually a small bend where it obviously was hit by something, but not enough to kink the tube. I took a chance and used my spring compressor where the bend was and carefully (slowly) pulled it in. All's well that ends well and it worked without breaking the tube and the rod is now straight. Knowing that steel has a memory, I'm curious to see if the bend returns? I should know about that in a few weeks. If I have to straighten it again I'll use the vise as you suggested.

Steve

SteveK wrote: ↑

Tue Apr 09, 2024 2:21 am

Knowing that steel has a memory, I'm curious to see if the bend returns?

Steve

I doubt that you'll find that to be the case.

Good job!