MTFCA Forum

finally starting my engine project i am taking my ee crank to be ground. the shop says they will do it however i want it.
i have checked the crank it is straight and measures within .005 of stock. i am going to tell them just clean it up no more than needed
and radius the corners .125 i am also going to see if they can check and tru the flange faces. oh and magnaflux am i missing anything?
philip

Crack test first, and as for clean up as needed that's fine as long as you work with what rod sizes are available or you will be looking for someone to build rods for odd size.

i am going to do the babbitt work and yes i am going to ask him to make the rod journals the same most of the wear is on the rear main. philip

Sounds like a plan, my crank grinder does in .005" increments and often end up with inbetween size journals, no problem as
I do my own rod work.

I

nice rod lathe. i will be using a bridgeport and a fixture i made. philip

If the 3rd main on an ee crank is already .011” or more undersize, it likely will not re-grind .020” or better. They generally wear the most at the 3rd main and all the wear is generally to one side, not evenly worn all the way around.

The AA cranks seem to be more resistant to wear, but more prone to cracking. The EE cranks seem to be less prone to cracking, but also less resistant to wear. The AA steel is vanadium steel. The EE steel is high-carbon steel.

Find a grinder who indexes off the OD of the flange. Most can't or won't. A few posts on this issue.

Took the crank yesterday they said they would do it anyway I wanted so we wrote a recipe
it's a big truck repair shop with full machine shop
Nice people quote on the grind 75.00 plus
The cost of magnaflux. I also took the block
To be cleaned in an oven. Philip

Good idea to do five rods to have an extra one under the rear seat for just in case.