MTFCA Forum

Got the glass installed and had to replace the ising glass in the side curtains as they had deteriorated over time. Need a little adjusting, but after being rolled up for 30 years they need to relax and stretch a little.

Wow, very nice!

Wow! Looks great!

I don't care what anybody else says, that is a great looking model T!

Funny though, just yesterday, I almost posted on your "You Tell Me" thread about your speedster build asking whether you had finished the red touring yet or not?

Can not wait to see this in person!

Beautiful work, Tom.
It seems like an occupant would have to have someone on the outside to turn the fasteners to close it up and to let them out!

: ^ )

Keith

Thats a great illustration of how Model T occupants stayed dry in a rainstorm but how did they keep their coil box from shorting out ?….. Beautiful touring Tom

You can only enter and exit on the passenger side. On the front seat the zipper follows the top bow outline. The zipper has pull tabs on both sides so it can be activated from both sides. The two side curtain fasteners are easily reached from the inside with the zipper unfastened. The rear door simply unzips and opens.

I suspect that water will come in thru the front. But it probably beats no curtains in a storm.

Tom did you repair and use your Automatic tubing. If so, howd you do it?

Yes Richard, I used the frame that had cracks in it. I started by wet sanding it with 400 to get scratches and scares out. Then on to 1200-1500 and 2000. I use a radiator type torch with very low heat. Using Muratic acid with a radiator brush I wash the crack area and heat the crack while continuing to work acid into the crack. Then put a drop of silver solder on the crack and heat it until it melts, then using the brush push the solder into and over the crack to get inside and around the crack to tint the surfaces. Once it’s tinted I melt a bead of solder over the crack making sure I have filled it. You’re bound to get to much solder on things so I take a clean rag and using low heat, heat until you see the surface goes liquid and then quickly wipe off the excess. You want to remove excess. The solder left on will polish off.
Because the half’s are riveted together I don’t how to polish it on a pedestal machine without twisting it into a knot. So I put a shipping blanket on a table and clamped the frame down using draw clamps. I put a 7-8” spiral buffing wheel on a hand held variable speed buffer (like you use on paint) and turn it on its side. Works really good without the danger of hooking the frame.
Always use silver solder because it’s much stronger than radiator solder. I was thrilled with how nice it came out. Hope this helps.

I'd think some water would find its way in, especially in a windy rainstorm. But driving slowly would probably limit it... and without a windshield wiper, you would probably need to go very slowly, especially at night, even if you were on pavement, which you likely were not. Dust was probably the greater nuisance in dry regions... dust, and flung manure!

You did good, Tom. From the photos it looks like new tubing. Thanks for detailing the steps. I havent yet inspected mine to reveal any cracks. Ill save tis thread for future reference if there are.