MTFCA Forum

I couldn't find my other one so made this replacement. Anyone with a 19 and later car needs one. It is a 5/8" open end wrench specially thinned down. The starter motor on the barn fresh tourer on which I am working had the cable connecting stud torn out of the top of the housing. It could have been avoided.
When the nut to secure the stud is fitted it should be tensioned up firmly, remembering that it is clamping down on fibre washers and a black insulator, so maximum crush should be avoided. Then the cable is connected, and the second nut run up. That second nut does need to be tight to make the best electrical connection. The thinned down wrench holds the terminal in place while the second nut locks the terminal tightly to the stud. There is no twisting/upsetting of the terminal bolt and subsequent damage to the starter.

The same applies to the generator terminal and the two terminals on the foot starter switch.

This tool began life as an impact Phillips screwdriver bit.
It is a special kind of hardened steel and I ground it down to make an excellent scriber. However, it has an even better use. When assembling T parts it is invaluable as an alignment tool for cotter pin holes. The fine tip can be used to first find the hole, and the nut can be turned a little to allow deeper penetration of the point to find better alignment of the hole.

What others are out there?

Allan from down under.

Here's two home made.

Piece of top pole from chain link fence, mated to Ford hubcap wrench for extension. Good on those stubborn hubcaps!


And the repro tool for U-Joint shaft, to turn while engaging the drive plate is usually a bit thick and can wedge in place as you slide in the rear end.

A plastic putty knife, cutaway for the square shank, works too, like a flexible fork, to be easily pulled out while completing the engagement.

Made a lot but I'll post this one tool.

Scrap material soldering iron for radiator repair- -Chris

Puller for Ford wire wheel hub. While the original pullers rule, they can be hard to find and pricey.

So, made similar from a common $13 pitman arm auto parts store china steel puller, just had to grind the jaws the proper spacing for the hub groove.