MTFCA Forum

With wood wheels the tire is on and holds the hub in place so you can make the nut nice and tight.

With wire wheels you install the hub and tighten the nut before you install the tires, which help provide friction. If you
try to tighten the nut the hub just turns or the hub on the other side turns.

The method I was taught is to put a long crow bar, breaker bar, or 2x4 between the studs so the hub does not move while
you tighten the nut.

There has to be a better way.

What nut are you tightening?????
Axle nuts?
To torque the axle nuts, I have a spare wheel without the hubcap mounted.
With or without a tire, let the wheel sit on the ground locking the parking brakes.

For the rear, I use long piece of something like angle iron as you posted, only I put used nuts on the studs first. That is how I did Model A rear hubs.

Dave

A lever braced to the garage floor like you did is OK way. Lever needed to hold rear hub to keep from twist as puller nut is tightened before it is whacked with the big 2 1/2 lb hammer. The larger TT tire tool used for this and for axle nut tightening too.

Works for me

John

That might be the best way so I do not damage the studs.

Now I just have to find a worthless wire wheel to use when installing the axle nut.

Good thing they pop right off when I want to grease the bearings. I have the same
puller Dan has and it works great.

Dan or Dave, what brand and part number is that puller you are using to pull the rear wire wheel hubs? Thanks Tim.

The wire wheel rear hub puller is made from a common pitman arm puller, can be found at auto parts stores under $22, or mine came from Harbor Freight, same china made steel puller for less $



You have to modify by widening the jaw opening to fit the hub, easy with a bench grinder.

Thanks Dan. Tim

Tim

They come in 2 sizes. You want the bigger one. They work so much better than the wood wheel puller. I pull my wheels every year and regrease the bearings. I think pulling every year also helps prevent rust inside the hubs so they come off easily every year.

Thanks Dave, are these sold at Harbor Freight?

Tim

There are many choices for tie rod/pitman arm pullers, but the one I used was the least expensive Harbor Freight'Pittsburgh' version, this style is sold by other sources too. Just be sure you can make it narrow to about 1 3/4" gap between the arms to slip around the Ford wire wheel rear hub round section. Had to do a bit of grind and check to get the fit desired.

Thanks Dan and Dave, we just got a harbor freight not too long ago so I will go and check out what they have, I have always just put a nut on the axle flush and wacked it with a BFH, I know thats bad but its worked so far, thats the way my great grandfather taught me! he could tune a coil by ear.