MTFCA Forum

Got some new to me front fenders for the WWI ambulance which will get scuffed up and painted OD lusterless gree top and bottom. Paint with air compressor spray gun. I usually like to hang parts and spray both sides at once, but am leery of getting runs on top side of fender if I hang it by running board holes or frame flap holes. I'm thinking spraying bottom first, letting dry and then turning over and painting top side and letting it dry in that position to allow paint to lay down smooth. But I don't know how to prevent transition overlaps or ridges of paint along the top and bottom layers.

How do you guys and gals do it?

I'll hang up and listen.

For what it's worth, these have been painted well, so I will scuff them up and go right to od green, no primer. Light tack coat, medium coverage coat and then even top coat.

I nail them in their normal position to a 4x4 with 1x1’s holding the nose and tail in position, so you can shoot the top and bottom at the same time. You are less prone to runs this way than hanging them by their tail. Good luck.

When I painted my sheet metal I used saw horses with some plywood strips and a couple of 1x4 boards. It’s kind of what Dollisdod did or similiar.
The fenders were flat along with the splash shields and running boards to allow for less runs.

I would suggest that you first PRACTICE ON SOME TYPE OF TIN OR OLD FENDER TO GET YOU PAINT STROKES AND SPEED RIGHT AND THE RIGHT AIR MIX AND PRESSURE. Don’t mix your paint and hook up your spray gun and get going BEFORE and expect it will be OK. It may not be!
Be sure to paint the bottom sides FIRST!

Be sure the new paint is compatible with the old paint. I would put a dab on the underside first and see what happens. Some paints act like paint remover on other paints.
Norm

Harbor Freight has 200# folding work stands with foam on them. $25. Body guys use a sturdier style but they use them every day for years. Use primer/sealer if concerned about paint interaction.
Craig.

I guess what I'm hearing is that the bottoms are painted and then they are set on some sort of support to simulate the mounted position and then the top is sprayed. Are the bttoms allowed to dry, then stand up and spray the top? Wet paint on the bottom touching the supports? But i'ts the bottom, so will not show?

Heed Norm's advice!!!!!!!!

Allan from down under.

Paint all the underside, then paint all the tops the next day.

Vacuum the room, all horizontal surfaces, your clothes and yourself to remove all dust prior to painting.

Get an old table or saw horses with a piece of plywood to sit it on. After cleaning and preparing for painting, turn the fender over and prime the underside first. After the primer dries, apply several coats, allowing each coat to dry thoroughly, sanding lightly between coats using 400, then 600 wet dry sandpaper. When done, mask the newly painted underside with newspaper and masking tape to protect from overspray.

Turn over and do the top the same way after sanding off overspray from paining the underside.

Tack cloths are handy for removing dust just before painting. Have plenty of ventilation if painting indoors.

Preparation is 90% of the job. Painting is 10%.

I've always used a Binks spraygun, with the fender between two saw horses.

If you can, keep the floor wet. Keeps the dust from kicking up.

Impossible to avoid dust without a booth. I did all the stuff a nonprofessional would do. Made a visqueen booth, cleaned parts and supports with a tack rag, watered the floor and still got a lot of dust. The key to a good outcome is color sanding and buffing.
As an old pro told me years ago.
"Anyone can paint. Its what you do after painting that makes the difference."

Rich, I'd change your old timers comment just a little. "It's how much you do after painting that brings results." If the prep and technique is right, there is very little to be done to a good paint job.

Allan from down under.