MTFCA Forum

So I’m a bit confused on adjusting the three clutch fingers: does tightening the screw clockwise increase the 13/16” space or decrease it?

As your screw in on them it raises the fingers lifting the ring & compressing the spring & expanding the gap.

Ok thanks John!

Clockwise for slipping clutch?????
Counter clockwise for ????

I’ve never had occasion to adjust the 3 little screws in the fingers CCW. I’ve always felt a hi speed slippage and adjusted them a half turn at a time clockwise to cure clutch slippage. Don’t drop cotter pins !!!!!

So, there is no reason to adj. ccw

hah wrote: ↑

Mon Aug 12, 2024 12:43 pm

Clockwise for slipping clutch?????
Counter clockwise for ????

CCW for repair / rebuild when out of the car and installing jackrabbit clutch disk.

Repair what? By turning ccw
you fix??? Am I missing something…. Lol!

Turning the screws counter click wise loosens the clutch.

Yes, it does! However, I was responding to rva’s response. He states, turning ccw for repair. Ok! My question is repair what?

hah wrote: ↑

Tue Aug 13, 2024 11:10 am

Yes, it does! However, I was responding to rva’s response. He states, turning ccw for repair. Ok! My question is repair what?

Short answer - Remove/tame a harsh clutch engagement.

The stock clutch setup is designed with some controlled slip when going into high gear. This makes for a gentle engagement as opposed to a bang lockup, but still providing a solid/continuous lockup while in high.

The service manual deals with the adjustment. 13/16" setting during transmission assembly & readjusting to remove extra slipping from worn clutch disks.
The 13/16" dimension applies to an assembly with all new parts. In practicality its a starting point, since very few are assembling our transmissions with ALL NOS parts. So we evaluate our clutch during the first drives & adjust the fingers more or less for that correct clutch lockup. Most common scenario is to tighten a slipping clutch. However, if the lockup seems a bit harsh, the spring pressure can be lessened. (A smooth clutch engagement is easiest on the drive line.) A less common scenario would be someone installing a new, higher pressure spring & recognizing a harsh engagement enough to readjust.

This all applies to an OEM clutch. If using lined disks, there can be no "controlled" slip. You will wear out the disks & quickly lose all lockup.

RVA23T wrote: ↑

Mon Aug 12, 2024 3:26 pm

CCW for repair / rebuild when out of the car and installing jackrabbit clutch disk.

Something to consider, the splash oiling of engine and transmission makes it problematic for fragments of clutch facing floating around in there, as it’s not a question of “if” but “when” friction material delaminates.

Question for advocates of the “Turbo” or “Jackrabbit” clutches, what, exactly is the quantum advantage that so far outshines the original clutch design ? Inquiring minds need to know !!

speedytinc wrote: ↑

Tue Aug 13, 2024 11:52 am

hah wrote: ↑

Tue Aug 13, 2024 11:10 am

Yes, it does! However, I was responding to rva’s response. He states, turning ccw for repair. Ok! My question is repair what?

Short answer - Remove/tame a harsh clutch engagement.

The stock clutch setup is designed with some controlled slip when going into high gear. This makes for a gentle engagement as opposed to a bang lockup, but still providing a solid/continuous lockup while in high.

I respectfully disagree with the notion of controlled slip. A harsh engagement is usually due to poor driving technique. Allowing the engine speed to decrease between shifts, so that it matches vehicle speed, allows for a seamless shift with no need for slippage.

Question for advocates of the “Turbo” or “Jackrabbit” clutches, what, exactly is the quantum advantage that so far outshines the original clutch design ? Inquiring minds need to know !!

A 100% free neutral, even in cold conditions.
Not to say that an "acceptable" neutral cant be achieved with properly dished disks & good clutch lugs & thin oil in winter.

During a club camping trip with an overnight freeze, Those with upgraded clutches started right up in the morning. Those that didnt had to be drag started.
Imagine a hand crank T with the brake lever in neutral. No forward movement & one can push the car backwards running with one hand.
So was a testimonial from an old doubter after the experience.

There are potential negatives also. To each their own.

Thank you, John!

Perhaps the well-used status of my T when I got her cancelled the “free neutral” of the Turbo clutch she was fitted with ? I never experienced a free neutral, seemed pretty much like any other T I ever drove. However, I feel that fragments of the clutch lining which regularly appeared in the transmission door screen may have contributed to the seized wrist pin that occurred, necessitating a full rebuild. I went back to the stock clutch pack. We’ll see how troublesome that is come fall !!

There once was a problem with reproduction clutch disc. The metal ones, not the automatic transmission disc. I have seen rebuilt transmission with a perfect neutral, 6 months later no neutral. Tear down disc all warped and galled together. Not driver either. Replace with 400 disc and original large disc. No more problems.
Not sure if the reproduction disc are fixed, I will not use them.
If those automatic disc work in a 350 Chevy, how can they not work in a T?
Guess it might help to do what the old timers did.
Coat with MBRT during assembly. That would fix them!

Not suprized with your finding, Dan.
I have always cleaned disk faces with a light bead blast. Never had any warpage on original disks.
I was warned by a supplier not to recommend blasting due to their disks warping.
My theory is Ford cut, then stacked & hardened.
I believe repop disks are in a hardened state then die cut adding tension to the metal that deforms when they get too hot.
I also wont use repop disks. There are plenty of original disks @ swap meets for pocket change.

hah wrote: ↑

Tue Aug 13, 2024 11:10 am

Yes, it does! However, I was responding to rva’s response. He states, turning ccw for repair. Ok! My question is repair what?

When doing a teardown/rebuild/restoration on the transmission or go in to replace a broken drum. The Jackrabbit/ turbo400 was just a fire starter,but..I have a Jackrabbit clutch in my Transmission, going on 3 yrs now, have no creep when in "Neutral", easy to "find" and hold neutral on the foot/pedal and don't feel any excessive grab or harshness between low to direct (high).
It's my T and should the modern disc not work out, I will deal with it when it happens, just like when any other issues arise with a 100 yr old car.