MTFCA Forum

OK... pressed out the front spring bushings, cleaned up the eyelets, and started to run in new brass bushings.
Uhm....one fit tightly.... the other side I could press in by hand.

The old bushings were steel, and showed little wear, certainly not thinned/worn thru to eat into the spring steel. Upon closer inspection it appears that at some point in her life that did occur, but, not to the extreme I have seen some springs, but, it is slightly ovaled out on the top side..... ... just enough to open up tolerance where the bushing is no longer a press fit....and...enough where I can spin the bushing with my fingers.

So...what is best practice??? Fill the void? Knurl the bushing?
Can't imagine this is sufficient enough wear that it cant be fixed...but...not that I know what's best way to approach it.

Tight side with steel bushing... Worn side with steel bushing... Worn eyelet without bushing where you can see the slight oval

I'd either make an oversized bronze bushing, or just use it as is, (with the seam at the bottom). What's the harm?

I wasn't sure if the bearing being free to spin unlubricated in the eye, if it would in turn cause more wear & tear on the eye enlarging it further... though I imagine the bronze would be eaten first...

A bushing wont spin if its a press fit.

This might be a good application for Permatex bearing mount fluid.

I had one similiar and I drove in the bushing. Hadn’t moved let. I wouldn’t worry about if its not sloppy loose. It’s not the first T spring that has worn eyelets.

You could press in a small roll pin where the spring comes together and your bushing will not move. Just to provide a little friction between the spring and the bushing. Better yet, file one side of the roll pin down and the pin cannot turn.

speedytinc wrote: ↑

Wed Aug 14, 2024 5:08 pm

A bushing wont spin if its a press fit.

That's the problem, while the old steel bushings require a (minimal) amount of press, the new bronze I can drop in with no effort, and squeezing either end can spin it inside the eye...ain't no pressing it....almost like the new bronze are undersize...

I guess I was overthinking it, but wanted to make sure I wasn't gonna do more harm thinking of similar old school type fix

Daisy Mae wrote: ↑

Wed Aug 14, 2024 6:31 pm

speedytinc wrote: ↑

Wed Aug 14, 2024 5:08 pm

A bushing wont spin if its a press fit.

That's the problem, while the old steel bushings require a (minimal) amount of press, the new bronze I can drop in with no effort, and squeezing either end can spin it inside the eye...ain't no pressing it....almost like the new bronze are undersize...

I guess I was overthinking it, but wanted to make sure I wasn't gonna do more harm thinking of similar old school type fix

I would get the next sized bushing thru McMaster Carr & machine the OD down for a press fit.
Locktite 660 is an option. It will make a sloppy loose fit tight.
The steel bushings are designed/sized to be put in tight collapsing the OD. You will find if you put the shackle in, the shackle will be a sloppy fit.

Use JB Weld

If you stand the spring on end with that eye on an anvil, and give it a few good whacks with a heavy hammer, you will close the eye enough to stop the bush moving. Then ream as required.

Allan from down under.

Looking at the photo there is a slight gap visible. I would try putting the eye into your vise. Use duct tape if your jaws have a pattern. Give it a tug until the gap goes away. See if that helps? Otherwise, make an oversize bushing.

If you take it to a semi truck spring repair center they will fix it for free, probably…. Done.

Spring steel has a memory. There is no way simply squeezing that gap shut will keep it shut. The whole answer is heat and reforming the eye, and re-tempering, but it is not necessary for such a small discrepancy. All you need is to stop the bush moving in the eye.

Allan from down under.

Make an oversize bushing. If that's not an option, then maybe brazing a bit of brass on the outside diameter of the bushing and working it down for a tight fit with the spring eye will work for you. Use the out of round condition of the eye to your advantage by building up just one side of the bushing, where it will fill the gap in the eye. This will keep the bushing from turning. This is not a thing needing great precision. If you just installed it as is, the oil would work around and get to where it needs to be, even if the bushing rotated.

I’m with Jerry on that, braze it up & grind or file it to fit tight. I want a vice like Larry has.
Craig.

Craig Leach wrote: ↑

Fri Aug 16, 2024 12:04 pm

I’m with Jerry on that, braze it up & grind or file it to fit tight. I want a vice like Larry has.
Craig.

Are you not worried about taking the temper out of the spring getting it hot enough to braze??

Normal front bushings have a 9/16 bore, 11/16 OD and a length of 1.5 inches. If you want to try oversize bushings in your application, I'd install bronze bushings with an OD of 3/4 inch, with the other measurements unchanged. Such a bushing is available from Grainger in a 3-pack. Part number 13T531

You can shave them down a little if you need to get them to fit. I use bronze for all perch and spring bushings. I prefer to sacrifice the bushing rather than the shackles. Bushings are available and can easily be replaced, shackles not so much.

speedytinc wrote: ↑

Fri Aug 16, 2024 12:07 pm

Craig Leach wrote: ↑

Fri Aug 16, 2024 12:04 pm

I’m with Jerry on that, braze it up & grind or file it to fit tight. I want a vice like Larry has.
Craig.

Are you not worried about taking the temper out of the spring getting it hot enough to braze??

Nobody suggested brazing the spring. The brazing would be on the bushing's outside diameter.

Jerry VanOoteghem wrote: ↑

Fri Aug 16, 2024 12:49 pm

speedytinc wrote: ↑

Fri Aug 16, 2024 12:07 pm

Craig Leach wrote: ↑

Fri Aug 16, 2024 12:04 pm

I’m with Jerry on that, braze it up & grind or file it to fit tight. I want a vice like Larry has.
Craig.

Are you not worried about taking the temper out of the spring getting it hot enough to braze??

Nobody suggested brazing the spring. The brazing would be on the bushing's outside diameter.

Thanks for the clarification. My mistake.
That would be a good option for someone without a lathe.
I would prefer making an over-sized bronze bushing.
Adding a bead of brass to the steel bushing would work.

I totally agree with Tim. Rather than sacrifice spring shackles in steel bushes, I'd rather sacrifice easily replaced bronze bushings. 3/4" OD bushes turned down for a press-in fit would be ideal in this situation.

Allan from down under.

Granger 3/4" ordered...

I just wanted to thank everyone for all the excellent suggestions.
It's nice to be on a forum where everyone helps, and is not belittling.
Been on too many forums where the latter was the norm.

Thank you all for your support on Daisy Mae's continuing journey,
I appreciate ya'll

Kurt - with almost no exceptions, I have found Model T people to be among the finest I have ever known. Generous with their time and knowledge, willing to go the extra mile to help a complete stranger. To expand a bit - you may be a stranger, but only to the first hello and handshake....after that you are a friend among friends.

I was totally "blown away" when I bought my T in 2018 and began to participate in this hobby. It came at a good time in my life and has been a blessing.

I started my car for the first time on Aug 3, 2019 - learned to drive it the same day, and three days later hauled it to Sault Ste Marie, MI, for the Michigan Jamboree. It was missing a bit so I opened the hood in the campground and was poking around. Within 15 minutes I had a half-dozen guys there with tools and etc., helping to diagnose the problem. I joke that the easiest way to meet people on a Model T tour is to open the hood That was my introduction to what I call "The Model T Way....." I have since done my best to return the favor.

I have restored many cars in my life, Mustangs & other 60's muscle, as well as antqie/hotrod (stories there!!) my current stable being Model A & T, VW bus and classic dune Buggy, Jeep Grand Wagoneer, 65 Mustang....
And a member of forums for each. The Mustang ones I have to admit being some of the worst for arrogance and 'tudes.

I lived the kind of T life you describe in the '80's in CA. My grandparents lived in Grass Valley, and there was a very active club in Auburn I used to frequent their events. Lord knows a good bit of my knowledge, and many parts, was gleaned from that group. They were a great bunch, and I hope they're as active now...although sadly I imagine many who helped me then are no longer with us.
I moved to Atlanta in 91, and never was able to find the same since. Even with all the retirees in Florida, I can't find much in the way here in active clubs/owners.....