MTFCA Forum

Our coupe did not come with a windshield. So, I had no idea what all parts are needed. I went to the vendors and documented everything 26 coupe windshield. Many items did not specify coupe or whether they were for a closed or open car. Remember, our T came with nothing windshield related, nothing to compare to and we started with no knowledge of the T. Years ago, I purchased a real steel used frame but there is too much rust. I have an aluminum one on order.

Gratefully, looking at photos on the forum, I have determined that we need two of these brackets. I assume that they as symmetrical and can be used left or right side, but it looks like I need to make them as they are made of unobtainium. Since, we have the A-pillars, I know the screw hole distances.

What is the thickness of the steel?
Are the screw studs carriage bolts?
What size threads of the stud?
Thanks guys

I can do some measuring for you tonight on mine.

Have you tried posting an ad in classified? I have to believe someone has a pair of these sitting in a coffee can somewhere. Heck, I might even have a pair and will look although not too sure. All that is unless you actually WANT to fabricate your own.

They come up on eBay occasionally.

Hello Vern. I have followed your 'resurrection' of your Coupe for several years, thanks for sharing all the info.

I took several pictures and made some measurements. I'll gladly send you the photos if you like.

The bracket is 1/8" steel and the stud is 5/16-18 steel 1-1/4" long. The fasteners are oval head machine screws, 12-24 x 1".

If you want photos, text me at six zero seven-five nine two-four double eight two with something model t in first line of text and I'll respond.

You probably know Lang's sells the lock nut knobs for holding windshield open/closed. Originals on mt '26 were pot metal, I dropped one and it shattered. The new ones were chrome, a tad bright. Obviously they could be turned from brass stock. There's a cup-shaped steel washer on both sides of the slider and the inside one appears to have a leather washer on the slider side to hold tension on the slider. The slot in the slider is 6" long the brass slider is 3/16" thick. My coupe is in pieces so if you need more info I may be able to obtain it for you.

All the best, jb
edited 9/24 add stud length, correct machine screw specs

Sorry I cant get mine to open to photograph it.

varmint wrote: ↑

Mon Sep 23, 2024 8:06 am

Our coupe did not come with a windshield. So, I had no idea what all parts are needed. I went to the vendors and documented everything 26 coupe windshield. Many items did not specify coupe or whether they were for a closed or open car. Remember, our T came with nothing windshield related, nothing to compare to and we started with no knowledge of the T. Years ago, I purchased a real steel used frame but there is too much rust. I have an aluminum one on order.

Gratefully, looking at photos on the forum, I have determined that we need two of these brackets. I assume that they as symmetrical and can be used left or right side, but it looks like I need to make them as they are made of unobtainium. Since, we have the A-pillars, I know the screw hole distances.

What is the thickness of the steel?
Are the screw studs carriage bolts?
What size threads of the stud?
Thanks guys
windshield side bracket LIT.jpg

I just bought a Barn Load of part & just happened to remove two of those brackets off a rusty frame (may be different 2holes not 3) . Also the slider, washer that fits inside the slide groove & knurled knobs. The knobs may need some help.
I found on of the brakets & a knurled knob. These may be different than what you need as the shape of the bracket looks a bit different. It is not flat by any means as you can see in the photo. The 3 holes- the two outer holes were rivets and the center hole is for a screw

Appreciate the helps.
Have stainless, oval head, slot drive #12-24x1" machine screws. 1" is more than enough but it seems to fit w/o cutting.
Looks like garnish trim pieces need to go on first, then brackets.
Cupped and leather washers cannot be too hard to obtain.
5/16-18 stud...how long?

Checked vendors, ebay already. Saw that I was not the only one wanting those brackets in the classifieds. I listed a WTB fender 2-1/2 years ago and never got the part and ended up re-making it. Suppose, I could try the classifieds again.
Do I want to make my own? Rather buy for time sake. I think I've fabricated about 1/4 of the car.

Hi Vern: "5/16-18 stud...how long?"

1.25 inches

Here are the dimensions of the glass when you get to that point. The original glass was plate glass, but you'll want to use laminated (safety) glass, of course.

Thanks for the stud length.

Thanks, but that bracket is for a different car, 3 holes not inline, stud too far away (sad face).

I have two sliders, beat up, but I can flatten them and paint black, maybe.

Mark, that image is better than the one I've got. I wasn't going to ask about glass yet but Haro Glass cut my rear windshield and side fixed windows in the coupe, wonderful job. They only ask that I bring them a cardboard template. Once my front windshield frame arrives in the mail, I'll make a template and compare to the official measurements. Do you run a bead of silicone within the frame for the glass?

Thanks to the ghost that PM'd me, but my CAD and geo-code days are over.

As far as the bracket, I see the knob and some other hardware pieces available at the vendors. Not sure which pieces to get but I do have a pic.

Found a photo from the back side of the bracket.
Found a piece of steel .116" thick (between 7/64 and 1/8").
Measured the screw holes on the A-Pillar and included a sketch of what I think the dimensions are.

Vern: (Sorry for mis-stating your name, I fixed that)

Your diagram agrees closely with measurements of that part on my '26 coupe. I measure a stud center to screw hole center of 1-3/16", but not implying yours is 'wrong'. That dimension is important, b/c when windshield arms are folded up, fully closed windshield, a larger distance will make window 'tighter' against the frame.

The offset of 3/8" in the bracket plus a 1/8" inch thick washer at the base of stud gives a total of 1/2".

Best, jb

James and all - I measured the screw holes on the A-Pillar and compared to the photos to guess (with a ruler) the other measurements, which is what I have been doing for years on our T. Amazed it's only 1/16" off. Right, the longer distance may also mean that the sliders may not fold all the way straight up in the closed position, while a shorter distance to the stud may prevent the windshield from sealing at all.

Here is a sketch the edge of the bracket.
I got the windshield frame in the mail centered it left - right measuring 9/32" average between frame and pillar.
The windshield frame, slider bracket has a 3/32" thickness until it gets to the slider which means the total offset should be (12/32" or) 3/8".
Subtracting the 1/8" washer at the base means maybe this particular fabrication should only have 1/4" offset (1/8" thick plus 1/8" bend). So use a combination of the two top views.

Jim Patrick - thanks for your 1971 answer to the RTV in the windshield frame for think laminated glass. Found your old post.

Made the bracket for a 3/8" offset. That way if I need to go 1/2", it simply requires an additional 1/8" spacer.
Found .122" material for the project, and it comes with the first bend already
Heated and bent to a dogleg.
For the countersunk holes, I ground the tip of the drill bit to the same angle as the screw head.
The screws fit flush and line up with the holes in the A-pillar - test fit in car. (Vise is tilting the screw.)
Already had some stainless 5/16 - 18 x 2" carriage bolts, broached a hole. Need to weld and cut to length...and then the second bracket.

Fabbed 2nd one. For anyone who comes after me...
The three holes are drilled for a #12 screw, one inch apart, inline on center. The stud is 1-3/16" on center from the middle screw. Material thickness: 1/8", bend 1/8" for a total offset of 1/4". Used (6) stainless #12-24x1" oval countersunk heads, slot drive. Used (2) stainless 5/16-18 x 1-3/8" carriage bolts, through the material for a 1-1/4" stud. Small chance this is correct but it worked for me. Thanks for the helps.

This was a test fit of second bracket, bolt not welded nor cut.

Instead of starting a separate thread for the windshield side brackets which mate up with the A-pillar brackets, I've included it here:

The Windshield frame brackets seem to be made of unobtainium for the '26-7 Coupe, even though new examples exist for the Model A. I didn't see any listed anywhere and the two on the rusted steel frame are "untrustworthy". But one is good enough for a pattern. Time to make them.

Option 1) Slit and fold a piece of sheet metal 3/32" thick over a steel 3/8" bar, held in a vice and fold the four outer tabs down around the outside of the bar. Then fold the two middle tabs up, flush within the outside edge. Finally drill the holes and trim to measurements.

Option 2) Create a flat pattern, do the machine work, stamp creases, and fold into position. (This is the way its done in real life if you make molds and jigs in a machine shop for mass production.)

Here's a sketch of the other bracket before I flattened it.
Unfortunately, the steel frame is 1" from back side of the face to the mounting surface of the bracket but the aluminum one is one 3/4". This means the slider (swing arm) connecting the windshield frame to the A-pillar won't fold up, unless this second bracket is modified. I guess I cannot use the old rusted out ones anyway.

Time for adjustments. Old and new. I was told that this is all I needed for both sides. Correct parts are not available and the old ones are too far gone.
Aligning the slider/swing arm and the aluminum frame with the camera, evidently, the 1/4" offset from A-pillar due to the bracket is still too much for this project. The official washer cup and rubber grommet will have to be replaced with a 5/16" thin washer to move the slider to the right about 3/32". In, a strange way, one cup washer per side is necessary.
The aluminum frame is at it's low position (not raised by 3/8" to the lowered hinge at the header). Also, I noted that the top hole of each bracket align. A-Pillar garnish moldings are not here yet but that won't change the design of bracket #2.
The aluminum frame is spaced away from the A-pillar to account for the rubber and yet the bracket, yet to be made, only needs to have 1/32" more center lobe by the sketch, even though the steel frame is clearly 1/4" deeper. I conclude that the rusty frame is incorrect.
Gonna make it long and trim later. Use the new pivots and the guide for hole size. Metal is 3/32" thick. Time to find a 3/8" bar.

varmint wrote: ↑

Mon Sep 23, 2024 8:06 am

Our coupe did not come with a windshield. So, I had no idea what all parts are needed. I went to the vendors and documented everything 26 coupe windshield. Many items did not specify coupe or whether they were for a closed or open car. Remember, our T came with nothing windshield related, nothing to compare to and we started with no knowledge of the T. Years ago, I purchased a real steel used frame but there is too much rust. I have an aluminum one on order.

Gratefully, looking at photos on the forum, I have determined that we need two of these brackets. I assume that they as symmetrical and can be used left or right side, but it looks like I need to make them as they are made of unobtainium. Since, we have the A-pillars, I know the screw hole distances.

What is the thickness of the steel?
Are the screw studs carriage bolts?
What size threads of the stud?
Thanks guys
windshield side bracket LIT.jpg

Well as I was sorting out parts from a recent Barn Find, this was in the bottom with some different style wing nuts, knobs etc