MTFCA Forum

Ok,

I've found old threads on this, but I am still stumped. Supposedly, you remove the rear bearing sleeve with the tool sold by suppliers by engaging the tool in the grease cup hole and then turning clockwise. Yeah, right... What about that "dimple" that's supposed to keep the sleeve aligned? I see where it apparently mates to a depression on the outside of the housing, there is a bump. Not part of the sleeve that I can tell. How do I get the sleeve to turn. BTW, this car was recently rebuilt and restored, no rust or old grease. In fact, it has the new oil seals installed.

When you turn the sleeve with the tool, the sleeve will somewhat collapse on itself and allow the dimple to come out of the hole in the axle tube.

Ok, a follow-up. Finally got it out, it was just being difficult. I did use a hose clamp to compress as soon as it was out about 1/4"-3/8" inches, that helped.

Thanks, Ed.

Yep, you are correct. It did. I just didn't expect it to be that hard to move.

Ok, another question... (In case you haven't guessed, I am in the middle of the tear-down and seal replacement) When I removed the sleeve, the inner seal, ( a modern one, but a two-piece consisting of a holder and regular type oil seal) came out with it. Fine. After that there was what I originally thought was felt. Started pulling this out with a packing puller. Before I knew it I had pulled out a piece of fabric-like material long enough to the umbilical cord from a baby elephant. Should I have left this or does it not matter? My feeling is that it doesn't matter one way or the other, but looking for comments...

Thanks !

Remove it. It may be impregnated with old grit & uck. Its not needed with a new seal.

Thanks! I appreciate the reply.

Greg

I assume you used a long screwdriver to turn the tool so you could get the sleeve out. It only turns one way and sometimes you have to go left and right to break it loose. In the past people use to put large thick felt pieces in the rear axle before installing the seals. It was thought it would reduce the amount of oil that might leak out. They do not work. All you need is the inner seal.

Are you taking the entire axle apart, or just replacing the seals? I would recommend your using the newer seal for the outside. Also do not forget to put the felt ring between the seal and the hub. It fits into a groove in the hub.

DHort,

Thanks for the reply. When I took the axle down, the inner oil seal consisted of a steel bushing having an OD the same as the ID of the expanded sleeve. The bushing served as a holder for an oil seal. Since the steel bushing had an OD the same as the sleeve's expanded ID, the sleeve couldn't be compressed by turning, making it darn near impossible to remove the sleeve.

When I reassembled everything the firs time the bearing was about 3/4" short of the outside of the sleeve. This made no sense until I realized that the bushing/oil seal holder acted as a spacer. When I put the bushing back in the bearing lined up.

Whoever engineered the oil seal holder/bushing used a shorter Hyatt bearing rather than the correct length for the rear axle. (I think it may have been the front bearing on the differential) Kevin at Snyder's is due the credit for raising the issue of the bearing length.

Anyway, I took it down again about an hour ago and put in the correct bearing and threw away the bushing. That should fix it. (I hope...)

Thanks for your input.

I was not aware that the Hyatt pinion bearing Was the same as a rear axle bearing, except for the length.

Allan from down under.

Allan wrote: ↑

Mon Oct 14, 2024 5:23 pm

I was not aware that the Hyatt pinion bearing Was the same as a rear axle bearing, except for the length.

Allan from down under.

You are correct, it is not.
The pinion bearing is .562" dia rollers. Axle bearing is .500" dia rollers.

I'm curious about the inner seal. Is it the type that is stamped with a modern neoprene seal pressed into it. I'm thinking that the seal can be
replaced & reinstalled? Have others used these & what results have you had?
Craig.

Same questions:
What is the reason the rear axle is being restored to begin with.
How long ago were the Modern inner oil seals installed.
Given the time effort and other part costs to rebuild a rear axle why risk a $17.95 part fail? --
Steve Jelf how to https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AfxWPsF4KhQ
By Steve Jelf, Parkerfield KS on Monday, June 27, 2011 - 12:14 am:
I agree, no problem. I just installed a set in my roadster. I ran a little bead of Permatex around the outer edge where it fits against the end of the tube. That's not just to keep the seal from spinning, but also to help it seal to prevent leaking. Before sliding them in, I stuck a piece of electrical tape over the keyway just to "soften" the sharp edge to prevent damage to the neoprene, then smeared a little grease on the axle shaft to help them slide. Easy as pie.
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