MTFCA Forum

Last year I removed the brake pedal of my 1926 coupe because, over the years it had bent so much that it was bottoming out on the floor, making it hard to stop. I put the brake pedal in the vice and with a mallet, bent it backward so that it now has plenty of room so as not to bottom out. When I removed the brake pedal, for whatever reason, I felt the need to change the adjustment on the outside hogshead adjustment on the clutch band (big mistake) and now it has a hard time going into high gear. Basically it stays in low gear and I need to pull up on the pedal by hand to get it to change to high gear. Before this, it changed gears perfectly, so I know that the problem is an improperly adjusted outside clutch adjustment screw.

For those who have experienced this, what is the secret to finding the proper adjustment so that it smoothly slides into high gear when the pedal is released? Based on the description I gave, should the outside adjustment screw be loosened or tightened? I would guess that it is adjusted too tight causing the band to hold the drum in low gear, preventing it from releasing into high gear. Thank you. Jim Patrick

Also check for wear on the pedal ramp and cam, it reads to me like previously the floor stopped the pedal from going 'over center' on the cam and with the pedal straightening it may now be 'over center'. As far as linkage re-adjustment, someone will soon chime in with a post and picture of 'adjusting for free neutral'. Happy touring, jb

Thank you, James

I straightened the brake pedal, but it is the clutch pedal that is the problem. When I had the hogshead access panel off, I thought that the clutch pedal needed adjusting but I was wrong and now it won’t shift properly from low to high. I shoulda’ left it alone as it shifted perfectly before I screwed it up.

Jim Patrick

So, which way did you adjust it - in or out ??????? Put it back where it was before you messed with it.

Sounds like your clevis link is jamming. The service manual or a google search will show you a diagram for adjustment but it sounds like the clevis link needs to be adjusted so it is at an angle and not dead straight when the clutch pedal is pushed down for first, that would stop its overtravel causing you to have to lift the pedal up. First I would adjust 1st so the pedal is one inch anove the floorboard when the pedal is pressed down to get it about where it was, and go from there.

If it worked fine before you adjusted it, I would suspect the notch and cam are OK. There are several things which interfere with the adjustment. One is the adjustment of the parking brake rods. They can hold the parking lever part way back interfering with shifting into high. The low should be engaged when the pedal is about one to one and one half inches above the floorboard. There should be a neutral with the parking lever just bit forward from all the way back. If you did any adjustment of the link between the parking brake and the clutch lever that should be adjusted to give you neutral when your pedal is between the low and high position. The pedal moves inward when you push it down so be sure it does not scrape the floorboard or mat as it moves down. The link between the low and the clutch should not bind on the bendix cover. There should be some slack between low and high so that you can hold it with your foot without engaging either gear. Lastly the bolt on the clutch lever should engage the cam on the parking brake shaft when you go into neutral or high but should be disengaged then in high.
Norm

For optimal low band adjustment: with the motor running, in park, screw the adjuster in until you hear the triple gears start to engage. Back off the adjuster 1/2 turn. Done. Recheck your low pedal/clutch linkage. Reset to the service manual diagram.

This should help.

And this with more explanation.

Jim,

You apparently loosened up the clutch adjustment. You need to tighten it up a bit.

Thank you all for taking the time to post your answers to my question. I was looking for a tip (if there is one) on adjusting the clutch band using the outside adjustment without trial and error (adjusting, driving, adjusting, driving, adjusting, driving, etc. until success) but it looks like trial and error is the only way to do this. It will just take longer, but working on Model T’s usually require taking the longer route and more time. Thanks again. Jim Patrick

speedytinc wrote: ↑

Sat Oct 19, 2024 5:41 pm

For optimal low band adjustment: with the motor running, in park, screw the adjuster in until you hear the triple gears start to engage. Back off the adjuster 1/2 turn. Done. Recheck your low pedal/clutch linkage. Reset to the service manual diagram.

Jim, did you not read this post??

There is no "clutch band" there is a low band adjuster.
Clutch hold or slip is done with the 3 fingers under the inspection cover.
Setting/checking the linkages it also a simple follow the instructions task.

Yes John. I read the entire post and for 54 years since buying my T in 1970, have always called it the “clutch band” because it is controlled by the pedal marked “C”. As long as you are understood, it doesn’t matter what something is called. I don’t think anyone who read my question was confused as to what I meant. Jim Patrick.