MTFCA Forum

Am changing the Ruckstell axle lube for maintenance, and want to also lubricate the long-nose shift lock, as understand that should be done time to time and haven't done it before.

Any hints on doing this to the shift lock. Don't want to mess up the action. Is unbolting the shift lock and pulling it completely away from the axle housing the method? Does the Ruckstell need to be shifted in or out? Will the shift lock collar or arm place itself back in the correct spot? Have the Ruckstell manual but all it details is assembly of the shift lock when the axle halves are apart for first install.

Maybe over thinking, but don't want more work than just a grease job

I’ve done this before on one of those ‘long nose’ Ruckstell mechanisms. I did it because it was very hard to shift. Turned out, it was dry inside ! Just unhitch the linkage and remove the bolts and shift lock trying not to damage the gasket. Then slobber grease into the housing niche and reinstall.

Dan you have 2 bolts that locate the brass gear locking notch plate P147, one bolt will have a lock nut on it the other does not. Those must fit into the notches when reassembled or you’re not going to be able to use the Ruckstell. Fairly easy to put back in place once done. Stan Howe would add some grease zerks to long snout shift lock to lubricant his Ruckstell rebuilds. Right before Christmas I rebuilt one of his Ruckstells by adding a 3/1 crown gear & pinion set up with the long snout shift lock.
Best John

Hat Tip to Mark Strange & the late Stan Howe for the pictures

The plunger screw can be removed & pull the spring & plunger. Grease can be packed in without removing the shift lock body. Lube the plunger well. that's the piece that gets dry, wears & gets stiff. A drop of oil on the shift lever shaft & felt washer also.
That will lube the shifter for a lifetime. Zerks are not necessary IMHO.

I took out the cotter pin on the plug at the end of the tube and removed the spring, then packed the tube with grease and re-installed the plug at the end. The adjustment in or out of plug at the end of the spring will change the tension on the spring. You want it tight enough to keep the lever in place but not so tight it makes it hard to shift. When you get it right, install the cotter pin to hold in place.
Norm

Thanks guys. I’ll do the cotter pin out and unscrew the plug, spring, and plunger. Clean and re-grease and replace the parts. Easier way than off with the whole assembly.

Dan, I had the same problem when I got my speedster. I could downshift easily but the upshifts were difficult to the point that I thought I might damage something. Kevin Prus advised me to pack the plunger and spring hole with grease and I did, but the problem continued. I lightened up the spring tension but that didn't seem to resolve the problem either. I finally found out that my problem was "operator error". I wasn't releasing the throttle enough and was causing too much drag on the shifter. I never drove a Ruckstell before and hadn't acquired the "touch". Timing the clutch and the throttle along with the shift made the difference. Probably not your problem but good to know.

Is this issue only with the P158C? I have the P158A on my Ruckstell & don't seem to have a lube issue? It even leaks a little bit out the shaft.
Craig.

Craig Leach wrote: ↑

Mon Dec 30, 2024 9:11 pm

Is this issue only with the P158C? I have the P158A on my Ruckstell & don't seem to have a lube issue? It even leaks a little bit out the shaft.
Craig.

Yes. The plunger doesn't seem to get enough rear end vapor/oil & can get dry.

Thanks John.
Craig.

Followed advice and can report the Ruckstell shifts just fine now, as lube was helpful.

Rather easy, removed the spring and plunger and packed the nose and housing. There was some residue of old grease, but not much.

Buttered the nose full with a tongue depressor, and then a wooden dowel push stick deep into the housing to be sure of a good pack of dope in there too More added when inserting the plunger and spring.