MTFCA Forum

Hi, I'm pretty new to this hobby, and I'm looking to buy my first T. My dad had a 23 touring that we worked on together, but I want to get a T of my own. I'm looking for a T with a Chrome radiator so 1925-1927. I don't have much of a budget however about $5000-7500 so it'll have to be a project car. I live in southern California but I'm more than happy to buy one out of state. Please let me know if you have anything.

Hi Garrett, all the best with your search and please keep us informed how the project develops.

Keep an eye on Facebook Marketplace. There seem to be quite a few Ts show up on it.

There is a 26 4dr on FB marketplace in Bartlesville OK. Add says its $ 4500.00. I just now saw it. It’s maroon and seems to be a running car that’s not in bad shape. Don’t know any more than that and don’t know the seller. Not a bad price by the looks of the car. As others have said they do show up from time to time. Good luck in finding the one you want.

email sent

I like the looks of the four door sedans, but they retained the wood body framing all the way through Model t production. I suggest a 26-27 Model T roadster, touring, or Tudor sedan especially if the buyer is not into woodworking. They have minimal wood in the bodies.

To bad your not near wisconsin I've got a decent 24 roadster for sale 2500$ had no real lookers search 24 roadster project t in the parts fourm

viewtopic.php?f=5&t=43454&p=352252#p352252

1924 roadster project.

I changed my post to say I am willing to buy one out of state.

We have a 1924 touring that needs some work we'd be willing to sell. We bought it a few years ago and the plan was I was going to do some work on it and get it running better in the next few months. Email or P.M. (private message) if interested.

viewtopic.php?f=4&t=33744&p=261130&hili ... ng#p261130

This was the car as of 2022. Pretty much unchanged. Body, tires, and engine need adressing. (Mixing oil and coolant.) We did have it running in late 2022.

$4000, Northern Illinois.

emailed my phone # to call me about my 27 coupe

After some deliberation, I have decided that I love the late model t Fordors, and want to buy one of them. I'll change the advert to match my decision.

It would be worth it in the end to spend more for a car that is registered on the road and driveable, perhaps already rebuilt recently. There are many cases of cars sold by the inheritor that is not interested in the car and just wants to sell it quick. Many are in real nice shape and priced way above or below value due to lack of knowledge of old cars. A little negociation can get you a good deal.

Is there anyone in Southern California who paints T's? Several of the T's I am interested in buying are in need of a paint job.

I also forgot to mention that I am now just looking for a closed T Coupe, Fordo, or sedan, no particular year just whatever you've got.

This Tudor might still be avail. Craig's List, Yuma, AZ.
Listing id 7812012535 Not mine, just helping ya, seems like a good project for the $.

I want to try and buy a car that look and runs well, I don't really want to go to the trouble of painting one, or finding someone to do it for me.

Smart decision!

Garrett,
I have a 1926 Fordor Project that I have picked up 4 years ago. See: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=8061&p=66970#p66970

I bought the body and gathered most of the parts. The idea was to keep it as original as possible. If you are interested I am willing to talk. Just send me a message.

Matt

A repaint and interior replacement would cost alot more than the ultimate value of the car and you would never get it back if you decided to sell. If you did a back woods paint job and interior on a T, people would grill you like crazy for it.

I live in Southern California. A bit south of you, in San Diego County. I would suggest, if you haven't done so, to find a nearby club and join. There are many members who live in Orange, Riverside, and Los Angeles county, who would be glad to help you find something good. There is an Orange Riverside club, Long Beach Club, and Southern California club.
There were no Chrome radiator cars. The shiny ones were nickle plated. Some of us have used Chrome because it is easier to keep shiny. For driving in the hills and mountains, the Fordor is the worst one to drive because it has the heaviest body and the gas tank is in back which with the gravity flow fuel system makes is run out of gas before the tank is empty. The Roadster and Touring are the lightest. If you look at any car with a wood frame under sheet metal body, look under the car for little sandy deposits which look like salt and pepper. That is the sign of termites which will deteriorate the wood. If the doors sag or are open and shut, it also a sign either the chassis is bent or the wood in the body has rotted or has termites. Also drive the car and look for signs of cracked engine block or blown gasket. If the oil looks foamy and the water looks like it has oil in it that is a bad sign. Anyway, I would suggest that you find a local member to go with you to look at the car before you decide to buy. Even if you go to another state, look for the nearest club and ask if someone would go with you to look at the car for sale. If you can wait till june, the Long Beach club has a swap meet at Veterans Stadium and they often have cars for sale.
Norm

RecklessKelly wrote: ↑

Sat Jan 25, 2025 1:59 pm

If you did a back woods paint job and interior on a T, people would grill you like crazy for it.

You're kidding, right? I don't know what clubs you belong to, but that would not happen in any I belong to.

Who said anything about a clubs I mean people in general.

RecklessKelly wrote: ↑

Sat Jan 25, 2025 4:10 pm

Who said anything about a clubs I mean people in general.

People in general are generally clueless about what's "right" or "wrong". Besides, they mostly think we're all nuts anyway.

Thank you all so much for the advice. I'm planning on going to the next meeting at my local club. I have also decided to look for a Tudor sedan, because of the limited amount of wood in their body. But I also love 1919-1923 center doors. I am looking to buy a classic, black T. Please let me know if you have anything.

I've decided to let you all know exactly what kinds of T's I would like to buy the most. I Like 1919-1922 doctor's coupes, and 1923-1927 enclosed cars, coupes fordors, tudors, centerdoors, just no TT's I hope this helps people

What do you guys think of this? It's $3,000 With engine. It's just needs a roof, new tires and an interior restoration. I've asked him if I could give him a deposit of $500 to hold it for me.

Garrett, do your homework on the price of a set of tyres, tubes and flaps. Then price an interior kit and work out if you have the skills to fit it. The roof has a considerable amount of lightweight timberwork to take the top cover and the lining inside. All that is missing for a reason. Then heed the advice given, and find a good running car that doesn't need all that money and time spent on it.

Allan from down under.

A finished, complete car will always be cheaper than a project in the long run, if it's done to your specs. But some of us have more fun bringing a pile of junk back to life than driving someone else's dream. Also, when you are challenged for funds the pile looks more appealing

Garett I’m a big fan of being challenged in a restoration however please listen to the advice you’ve been given about purchasing a T that is already presentable & running as your first T. There are probably 100’s of T’s out there for sale that were never completed because the buyer was new to model T’s and became overwhelmed, then gave up. If you buy one already running with good tires you get the immediate satisfaction or dissatisfaction within a few weeks. Joining a club prior to buying a T is brilliant. Clubs are looking for new members and we’ll bend over backwards to see you reach your goal. If you enjoy the experience, believe me, you’ll end up with another T. That one may be a project that from your experience gained will be something that you’ll restore.
Most everyone here I’d think wants you to be part of this infectious little car & the people that love them.
Best John

JTT3 wrote: ↑

Mon Feb 10, 2025 11:41 am

Garett I’m a big fan of being challenged in a restoration however please listen to the advice you’ve been given about purchasing a T that is already presentable & running as your first T. There are probably 100’s of T’s out there for sale that were never completed because the buyer was new to model T’s and became overwhelmed, then gave up. If you buy one already running with good tires you get the immediate satisfaction or dissatisfaction within a few weeks. Joining a club prior to buying a T is brilliant. Clubs are looking for new members and we’ll bend over backwards to see you reach your goal. If you enjoy the experience, believe me, you’ll end up with another T. That one may be a project that from your experience gained will be something that you’ll restore.
Most everyone here I’d think wants you to be part of this infectious little car & the people that love them.
Best John

Very wise advice!

It's been over thirty years since I bought a 1926 RP project to "restore". Life interfered, and I learned a couple of things, and I still haven't got to work on that project. Meanwhile, I took the other approach, buying a 1915 runabout that didn't need complete rebuilding from the ground up. It sure needed some things, but in a few years I was driving and enjoying it. Eventually I drove the car to a club function a little over 200 miles away, and drove it home the same day. That did it. I was hooked on Model T travel.


https://dauntlessgeezer.com/DG121_Model-T-Travel.htm

If I had it all to do over, I would skip the basket case and go with a car that's at least mostly complete.

Garrett,
This starts with my dad and I.

What does dad say?

My dad sold his 23 a few months ago because we had a family member who had a health emergency and couldn't pay the medical expenses.
he says if I want a T I have to buy it myself.

Garrett, I know you are looking at closed cars now but if you’re open to others it seems in the Vehicle classifieds a motivated seller has a brass ish touring that may really be a bright spot for you to look at. 1916 was the last of the semi brass T’s. This T may meet most of your desires though you’ll have to be open to a touring car. It’s also located in California. Truly many folks that start with black T’s end up desiring a brass ish T. Might be a good fit for you & only a little over 60 miles from you.

Best John

viewtopic.php?f=4&t=46836&p=356396#p356396

thank you all so much for your help, here's the situation, I was involved in a hit and run in late 2022 my leg was run over, the police found the man a few months ago and we are suing the company who he worked for. With the money from the lawsuit I plan to buy my first model T. We will have the lawsuit filed by the end of the month and are looking to settle sometime in march. Thanks so much for responding, and for all of your encouragement, it really makes me proud to be a part of this hobby.

Garrett,
You have my permission to make adult mistakes now. My wife and I bought our Model T eight years ago when we were still in our 50s do to she wanted one. It only happened because it's a family thing that we work on together. We went from the worst basket case to something that she got to see running (on jack stands) last night for the first time in these eight years. You might be married and have children by then. Regrets can go both ways. A project car can help your male become a man but it could also break you. It's OK to start a project car, not finish, and have to sell it. That experience alone may be your best life lesson. If you do finish it, the reward, but then it will outlive you and you will have to part with it anyway. Settle these issues now but know that doing any amount of constructive work will build character.

If I had the money right now, I would definitely buy the 1916 touring mentioned above, I LOVE the look of a nice black and brass t and I'm willing to buy an open car in order to get one. I especially love the straight wood firewall with no metal on 1914 cars.

GarJen127 wrote: ↑

Sun Jan 26, 2025 6:29 pm

Thank you all so much for the advice. I'm planning on going to the next meeting at my local club. I have also decided to look for a Tudor sedan, because of the limited amount of wood in their body. But I also love 1919-1923 center doors. I am looking to buy a classic, black T. Please let me know if you have anything.

There is a young lady in our club Albuquerque Tin Lizzie’s

Selling a running suicide door 2 door coupe, I do believe it is a ‘21

EDIT: it’s. ‘23. AND I found a picture…

WillyR wrote: ↑

Fri Feb 14, 2025 2:57 am

GarJen127 wrote: ↑

Sun Jan 26, 2025 6:29 pm

Thank you all so much for the advice. I'm planning on going to the next meeting at my local club. I have also decided to look for a Tudor sedan, because of the limited amount of wood in their body. But I also love 1919-1923 center doors. I am looking to buy a classic, black T. Please let me know if you have anything.

There is a young lady in our club Albuquerque Tin Lizzie’s

Selling a running suicide door 2 door coupe, I do believe it is a ‘21

EDIT: it’s. ‘23. AND I found a picture…

That car looks beautiful, How much is she asking?

GarJen127 wrote: ↑

Fri Feb 14, 2025 3:45 pm

WillyR wrote: ↑

Fri Feb 14, 2025 2:57 am

GarJen127 wrote: ↑

Sun Jan 26, 2025 6:29 pm

Thank you all so much for the advice. I'm planning on going to the next meeting at my local club. I have also decided to look for a Tudor sedan, because of the limited amount of wood in their body. But I also love 1919-1923 center doors. I am looking to buy a classic, black T. Please let me know if you have anything.

There is a young lady in our club Albuquerque Tin Lizzie’s

Selling a running suicide door 2 door coupe, I do believe it is a ‘21

EDIT: it’s. ‘23. AND I found a picture…

That car looks beautiful, How much is she asking?

I sent you a message, I can look up her contact info if you would like.

WillyR wrote: ↑

Fri Feb 14, 2025 10:42 pm

GarJen127 wrote: ↑

Fri Feb 14, 2025 3:45 pm

WillyR wrote: ↑

Fri Feb 14, 2025 2:57 am

There is a young lady in our club Albuquerque Tin Lizzie’s

Selling a running suicide door 2 door coupe, I do believe it is a ‘21

EDIT: it’s. ‘23. AND I found a picture…

That car looks beautiful, How much is she asking?

I sent you a message, I can look up her contact info if you would like.

I didn't get your message, but if you could send me her information that would be great, thanks!

I didn't get your message, but if you could send me her information that would be great, thanks!
[/quote]

I may not have sent the message correctly.

See if you have the info.

There are two 26-27's for sale by the same seller in Basile, Louisiana (N.E. of Lake Charles). Both are advertised as 'not running', but look complete and look like only tinkering could get them running/ One is a 27 coupe with not dents or rust out that I can see and original interior except headliner, $7000.00. The second is a 26 or 27 touring with original interior, decent top, also no dents or rust out that I can see, $7500.00. Both have paint; not sure if original. Coupes paint does have some surface rust showing through paint in several places.Finally, my 26 fordor sedan in Houston, TX area is for sale, but even offering it at a $5000.00 LOSS, I'd still have to get more for it than your budget allows. Nice green paint with black fenders etc., nice interior but incorrect material, rebuilt engine, transmission, and Ruxtell rear axle, converted to 12 volt, Asking $9000.00 and I would be losing 5 Grand at that price.

What do you guys think of this? It's only an hour away from home and He's asking $4000 OBO, it is non-running.

That's a great start to the hobby.

If price is negotiable, then cast your eyes on parts needed, the body is a ‘23 before April of 1923, since no steering column bracket to dash. Is a low hood T, but the old radiator is a high 26-27, so hood doesn’t fit, and hood shelves and latches are missing. Has water pump so radiator may be poor. No gas line to carb, gas tank may be unusable. No battery in bracket under. No top irons, no spare carrier bracket or spare rim. Rear spring hangers are Model A with old type grease fittings. Upper windshield frame busted, plate glass has be replaced to operate on public streets. Not running could be stuck engine.

If no clear title deduct $500. Deduct $$ for pieces needed to hopefully get it running, plugs, coils, etc. IMO a $2000 value as sitting.

Then you might have a long term project.

Did you at least contact the seller of yet another $4K project car that at least RUNS, that's in Colorado? That's not too awfully far from you I would think for shipping, and I bet he'll negotiate. I will hold comment on the other car out of respect.

Here's a little detail that has to do with appearance. You're unlikely to find a chrome radiator shell. The shiny Improved Car radiator shells of the final years were plated with nickel, not chrome. When dealing with Fords of the twenties, be aware that through 1923 you have "low radiators", and in 24-27 the "high radiator" is about an inch taller. The taller radiator of 24-27 caused changes in other body parts. Sometimes people try to use both low and high parts on the same car. That's a can of worms it's smart to avoid.

This 1923 radiator is of the low type. The pertinent measurement is about 17". On a high radiator the same measurement would be about 18". Some people can tell whether a radiator is high or low just by looking at it. I use a tape just to be sure. This being a honeycomb type of radiator is irrelevant. We're just dealing with size here.

Those 2 words. Non running. Immediately you'll need someone with T knowledge with you if you go to look. Could be under $100 could be over $3000. As in some coil work or a thrown rod. You apparently need some help in choosing a car and knowledge about working on it. DO NOT GO ALONE!! If your parent is knowledgeable and willing take him but find someone. We're not all sweet hearts and a buck goes a long way with some folks. Get help.

Does the engine turn over with the crank? If you fill the radiator and engine with water does it leak out or into the cylinders? If so where does it leak? Could be internal Head gasket or cracks in the water jacket. does it have a water pump? If so might be an attempt to cool the engine by increasing the flow of coolant through the radiator which is an indication the engine was running hot. I have a 22 with low radiator. Sometime during that year the radiator was changed at the factory to high radiator. So there are 22 T's with low radiator and others with high radiators from the factory. Ford made changes when he thought they would be an improvement, not by the model year as in modern cars. The assembly plants kept using the parts on hand so not all changes were made at the same time. It is my understanding that all the Fordor sedans had the gas tank under the back seat, even the later years when the cowl tank became standard. So on hills a Fordor will run low on gas when going uphill. Not particularly a good car for places with hills. Also something to bear in mind. The cars from at least 30 miles inland in California or from Arizona or other dry climates will have less body rust than those near the coast. In beach areas the sheet metal can even rust from inside so it needs to have good paint even on the inside of panels and between wood parts and sheet metal. Many things to think about.
Norm

Wait another month for the Long Beach Model T swap meet.
Last year there were 2 great deals. Older restoration, running/driving T's $4500 - 5K. 17 touring with demountables & starter. 26 roadster with extra wire wheels/hubs & NEW tires.
You can do way better than this T.
Why the missing fuel line & hood shelves?? This one appears to be a money pit.

love2T's wrote: ↑

Tue Jun 03, 2025 9:40 am

Did you at least contact the seller of yet another $4K project car that at least RUNS, that's in Colorado? That's not too awfully far from you I would think for shipping, and I bet he'll negotiate. I will hold comment on the other car out of respect.

I did contact him but he never responded.

Garrett,

I'm going to second what speedy said. The end of July is just around the corner. There have been many a good deal found at the Long Beach swap. Nothing is certain, but chances are you will find something much better at Veterans Stadium that's affordable to you.

As my grandfather used to say "Good waiters get good tips" and he wasn't talking about restaurant workers serving food.

Good luck.

Modeltspaz.

GarJen127 wrote: ↑

Tue Jun 03, 2025 2:53 pm

love2T's wrote: ↑

Tue Jun 03, 2025 9:40 am

Did you at least contact the seller of yet another $4K project car that at least RUNS, that's in Colorado? That's not too awfully far from you I would think for shipping, and I bet he'll negotiate. I will hold comment on the other car out of respect.

I did contact him but he never responded.

Awww...sorry to hear that. Maybe he already sold it but could've at least given you the courtesy of a reply.
Keep looking Garrett.

love2T's wrote: ↑

Wed Jun 04, 2025 9:30 am

GarJen127 wrote: ↑

Tue Jun 03, 2025 2:53 pm

love2T's wrote: ↑

Tue Jun 03, 2025 9:40 am

Did you at least contact the seller of yet another $4K project car that at least RUNS, that's in Colorado? That's not too awfully far from you I would think for shipping, and I bet he'll negotiate. I will hold comment on the other car out of respect.

I did contact him but he never responded.

Awww...sorry to hear that. Maybe he already sold it but could've at least given you the courtesy of a reply.
Keep looking Garrett.

Thanks so much for your kindness, I will keep looking.

I am quite interested in this 1922 Ford model t Coupe from the Rich Eagle estate.
https://bluemuleauctions.hibid.com/lot/ ... ef=catalog

Registering, and lots of looking at lots (Pun intended), I am excited to participate in the Rich Eagle Auction, and hopefully win a Complete car, or Chassis.